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Firewall Insulation

Interest Level

  • Very interested

    Votes: 49 48.5%

  • Moderate interest

    Votes: 27 26.7%

  • Slight interest

    Votes: 14 13.9%

  • No interest

    Votes: 11 10.9%
  • Total voters
    101
  • Poll closed .
DanH

DanH

Legacy Member
Mentor
§ 23.1191 Firewalls.

(f) Compliance with the criteria for fireproof materials or components must be shown as follows:

(1) The flame to which the materials or components are subjected must be 2,000 ±150 °F.

(2) Sheet materials approximately 10 inches square must be subjected to the flame from a suitable burner.

(3) The flame must be large enough to maintain the required test temperature over an area approximately five inches square.

(g) Firewall materials and fittings must resist flame penetration for at least 15 minutes.

§ 23.1182 Nacelle areas behind firewalls.

Components, lines, and fittings, except those subject to the provisions of §23.1351(e), located behind the engine-compartment firewall must be constructed of such materials and located at such distances from the firewall that they will not suffer damage sufficient to endanger the airplane if a portion of the engine side of the firewall is subjected to a flame temperature of not less than 2000 °F for 15 minutes.


2emzsao.jpg
 
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Great work, Dan.

There's some sensitivity to weight of course, esp added in the nose of an 8. About how much weight would the insulation kit add? How thick is the material? The metallic shield used - what's needed, what are you testing? Impressive results! Thanks...
 
FW insualtion

Dan,
a note to say how much we all appreciate your efforts to save us from ourselves.
I voted 'very interested' before seeing it was engine side...sorry.
I am not about to pull my FWF to do this, much as I'd like to.
I will have to be satisfied with my cabin side insulation, which is various layers of the least toxic stuff I could find.
....a side note, does anyone else find it strange that we have this little 'bomb', the brake reservoir, on the firewall, with a nice big hole thru to the cabin, so its plastic fittings can burst and spray flaming fluid on our legs when it reaches just a few hundred degrees??????????????
 
Mildy interested.

... as discussed to infinitum before in other threads, the firewall itself is only part of the problem. I think most would be interested in a cost effective "system" rather than just the materials. You might get more interest with a system, methodology, or construction approach rather than just a material approach.

Also, some real statistics on engine fires, injuries, and/or fatalities would be appropriate. I think it is pretty presumptious statement that an engine fire "will" produce injury or death. Likely? perhaps....
Now, anything that prevents even one injury or death is worth pursuing so not arguing or putting down the time and efforts as not well spent.
 
Individual reservoirs on master cylinders

I put the individual reservoirs on my brake master cylinders.

I was afraid there would be interference with the firewall when the rudder pedals are all the way forward ( RV-8 flight-adjustable pedals) or that they would limit the range of adjustment of the pedals. I am 6'1". This turned out to be no problem at all for me.
So I am very happy with these.

It gets all the leak sources out of that part of the brake system, and gets the 'bomb' off the firewall.
 
double-wall firewall

Dan, it sounds like you have constructed essentially a double-wall firewall by putting a second plate in front of the firewall on standoffs?

If that is the case, is there any reason why something similar could not be done on the cabin side? And in that case, could it be aluminum?

So, for example, on all the stiffening angles on the cabin side of the firewall, rivet on a second set of angles to form channels, and then a sheet of 0.032 aluminum pop-riveted or screwed to those channels. It would extend over as much of the cabin face of the firewall as possible, but not contact the side skins and longerons. So it would create an air gap and radiant heat barrier. Since it would not get direct conductive heating from the firewall, it could have a sound-proofing mat on its front face (in the space between the firewall and the shield). This mat would not pose the same smoke/toxic risk since it is on the shield piece, not the firewall, and would not get conductive heating (except through the mounting angles).

It would be difficult, but not horrible, to install this on a finished airplane.
What do you think?
 
flyboy1963 said:
....a side note, does anyone else find it strange that we have this little 'bomb', the brake reservoir, on the firewall, with a nice big hole thru to the cabin, so its plastic fittings can burst and spray flaming fluid on our legs when it reaches just a few hundred degrees??????????????
Click to expand...

No................. I figure that by that time; the top cowl will be completely melted away, and the canopy won't be doing too well either....

Of course I'll shut off the fuel, to eliminate the worst source.

L.Adamson ---- RV6A (flying)
 
I'm interested

Would also like to know about the weight.

Thanks for your efforts

Steve
 
I'm a new guy here, just been lurking until now. I just received preview plans for a 7A and I think I am going ahead with it.

Anyway, the reason I am writing (I am no expert) is there are some neat light materials that could be placed on the cabin side of the firewall.

http://www.infraredheaters.com/insulati.htm

http://www.mauritzononline.com/indu...perature-fabrics/ch-grade-silica-fabrics.html

http://www.mauritzononline.com/indu...-fabrics/aluminized-coated-silica-1-side.html

The stainless steel firewall on the RV series should contain flame but not heat. Fireproof insulation on the inside of the cabin seems to be the most effective means of lenghtening survival time.

The first link above is spun ceramic blanket material and the third is a reflective high temp silica fabric. The second is a very high temp fabric that does not have the reflective surface. The ceramic would go against the firewall on the cabin side and the fabric on top of the ceramic with the aluminized side toward the ceramic to act as a heat reflector. I would estimate the weight of the combination at about six pounds and cost $150-200 in materials. There may be commercial blankets with this structure already available, I have not tried to source it. Some further research would be necessary to find the best combination of materials.

If you haven't seen the spun ceramic blanket, it is the same type of material that the space shuttle heat tiles are made of.

Just a thought. Keep cool.

Jordan
 
Hi Dan. Yes, I'd be interested. Do you have a sketch of how this would work? Seems firewall penetrations would be problematic.
 
Dan, I am impressed that your insulator is only 3 lbs. Your caution about sizing and adhesive gassing is right on. I only suggested these materials for an inside alternative. The spun ceramic could also be employed in the center of a sandwich on the engine side. It is the most effective insulator to weight material out there. You can put a piece on your hand and hold a torch on it and get no heat transfer. It is also available in rigid sheets. I came across it years ago when it was much more expensive (think shuttle tile prices), a friend used it to insulate his tight cowling from the exhaust pipes on a Prescott Pusher. They were too close and would have caused heat problems with the fiberglass.

Jordan
 
Dan, I am always impressed with the work you do. Thanks for sharing so much with the forums. I put Koolmat from Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php on the engine side of my firewall. Like a previous poster, I would not be interested in pulling my firewall forward since I now have a flying plane. I would definitely be interested if I ever became a repeat offender. (Rosie the Riveter says "no time soon")
I am curious if you ever did a burn test on Koolmat?
 
Contego Intumescent Coating

Dan, I replied to your poll as moderately interested, but I wonder what your thoughts are on an engine-side intumescent coating. The test results on Aircraft Extras website look good as far as reducing the temp transferred to the cabin side. I have the firewall stuff ready to bolt on, but I'm on hold while I decide what to do.

Regards, Merrill
 
Dan,

I appreciate the time and expense you've devoted not only to this topic, but to the many other solutions you've researched and freely provided to our community. I would like to make a small contribution... I have some Koolmat and would like to send it to you for testing. Please PM me your shipping address.

THANK YOU DAN !!!
 
More questions

I would like to know, before I vote (and I am at the exact stage that I to install a firewall blanket):

Is it absorbent ? Will it saturate with engine oil ?
Is it durable ? Will it get torn up and raggedy over time ?

Thanks
Kerry
 
Ok, Koolmat report, samples courtesy of Ernie Butcher.

Koolmat is a woven fiberglass mat coated on one side with a silica-filled silicone rubber. It's a bit on the heavy side at 3/4 lb per sq ft.



First test was Koolmat on the "engine" side, with the silicone face to the fire:



The "feathers" of fire shooting outward is the rubber component burning away. The sample appears to glow bright white because the silica is in fact white. Backside temperature performance was fair; the heat target 6" behind the firewall reached 200F in about 1:15 and 400F at about 3 minutes.

I'm hard pressed to say if this is a good engine-side insulator or not. I didn't know about the silica filler until after I shut off the burner and realized what I was looking at:



The bare circle in the center is where the burner blew away the silica powder. The remainder is still present, but just a small tap made it all fall off the panel, leaving only the fiberglass mat which was likewise very brittle (fiberglass is only rated for 1000F). Given the presence of engine compartment airflow and vibration, it is likely the real firewall would lose the insulation benefit of the silica layer. I did not re-test.

Continued next post.
 
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Next was a check of Koolmat as a cockpit-side insulator, installed with the silicone side facing aft. The test started out very well:



At one minute the silicone started to blister. I picked up the camera to record the behavior and about the time I got it focused the mat suddenly burst into flame.

At 1:15:



At two minutes. Note the smoke:



I turned off the burner, but the Koolmat blazed on quite a while:



Koolmat on the cockpit side of a firewall is not recommended.
 
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Deja Vu

Dan,
The cockpit side test of the coolmat looks all too familiar...keep up the good work and thanks,
Mike
 
Dan,

I've gotta say...I have friends with guns, but you're the only guy I know with a flamethrower! :D

Looking forward to more info.

Mike

DanH said:
<snip>

First test was Koolmat on the "engine" side, with the silicone face to the fire:



<snip>
Click to expand...
 
Dan,
Thank you for adding Koolmat to the 'burning man' test results. I purchased the Koolmat used in your test in anticipation of using it on my -8, but decided against it based on weight. It's comforting to know that my Koolmat is now in a 'better place'... and that all temptation to use it has been removed.
You're the man!
 
Has anyone mounted a fire extiguisher system on these aircraft? Similar to what is used in the NHRA? I reailize we are talking added weight for a fire bottle, cant imagine that the lines would add a tremendous amount of weight, but for the safety factor take one less bag?

I know some of the aluminized materials used on coats for steel making are good up to 2k I believe. I think there may be some thread of thought there, although I am curious to see the outcome of that coating protection.
 
I was planning on using Kool-Mat, but now that idea is up in smoke.

Thanks for screwing up my plans, Dan!!! Now I have to find something else!! :D

On the topic of extinguisher - Yes. David McNeill has an RV-10 with a race car style extinguisher mounted near the firewall. Starting to sound like a better and better idea.

Phil
 
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Phil, so far nothing but ceramic fiber (or variants), mat or woven (without binders or sizing) really works on the cockpit side of the firewall. Encase it in aluminum foil and fasten with a mechanical method. Everything else makes smoke or burns, the only differences being severity.
 
Thanks Dan...

I'm guessing that protecting the firewall itself (AKA: Engine side) doesn't look like a good idea any more.

I'd also base that on the melting point of stainless (2,600F - So I've been told) and the temp of wind blown avgas (1875F - So I've been told).

This means an unprotected stainless firewall is all you would need to keep the airplane held together. Then it's just a matter of protecting yourself (and interior structure/components) from the radiant heat on the back side.... Am I correct so far?
 
Dan,

Have you tested the "Fiberfrax" ceramic material that Spruce sells or the "Firewall 2000" ceramic blanket also at Spruce? I am just about to insulate my f/w, and your research has me pondering what is the best option at the moment. Thanks for your research and information.
 
Contego intumescent paint, courtesy of Merrill Evans.

Merrill prepared the stainless sheet sample with (I think) a primer and four coats of Contego. Total panel thickness was just over 0.030". 26 gauge SS is about 0.018", so total coating thickness was about 0.012".

An intumescent material swells in thickness when heated, generally forming something akin to an insulating foam. Contego swells a lot; I measured thickness after the burn of almost 1/2" in a few locations. It outgasses significantly and the outgas is flamable, so it is certainly not suitable for application to the cabin side of the firewall. Note the flame jets at the panel perimeter about 30 seconds into the burn, outgas venting under the surface char.



Thermal performance is reasonable. Backside temperatures (ignoring IR error for the bare stainless) were:

1 min - 325F stainless - 150F heat target
1:30 - 340F - 195F
2 min - 365F - 200F



This is a very good result given the original 0.012" coating thickness and very low weight. It is not as good as conventional insulation methods.

Temperatures rose rapidly after 2 minutes because the char began flaking off the surface in chunks. It peeled cleanly from the stainless in only few spots. Most flaked sections lost 1/2 to 2/3 their thickness, so some insulation remained on the stainless surface.



Here's the panel following a three minute burn:



The foamy char was very fragile. Simply removing the panel from the fixture caused significant flaking. Later, a compressed air blow gun easily stripped the panel down to about 1/16" thickness. Surface adhesion was generally good.

All and all, Contego paint is a fine thermal insulator. The major concern appears to be durability. Perhaps Merrill can comment on surface toughness, scratch resistance, etc for a prepared panel. Following intumescence, I doubt the char will withstand ordinary engine compartment airflow or vibration.
 
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Dan, Thanks for running this test! I prepared the panel by Scotchbriting, priming with Rustoleum Pro Red Primer #7569, followed with four coats of Contego rolled with a mini roller/smooth nap. Should have used a roller that would apply more paint per coat as the spec for steel is a final dry film of 70 mils (.070). The sheetrock spec by comparison is 14 mils. As to the scratch resistance/toughness of the dry paint, I did not specifically test it, but it is not hard like a polyurethane. However, you may topcoat it with an acylic latex to provide some protection. I am somewhat skeptical that it would hold up day-to-day in a high vibration environment without cracking and or flaking, but of course there is only one way to find out. Is there anyone out there that has operational experience with Contego on their firewall?
 
Another material idea

Dan, I've been giving this this issue a lot of thought and agree that the most effective fire and radiated heat barrier would be on the engine side of the firewall, and as luck would have it I'm at a stage in my project, as is a friend of mine - Paul K, that we could install an engine side barrier. That said, I'm wondering the effectiveness of the material in a welding blanket. In my research I've found they come in various materials (fiberglass - 1200 degree melting point, felt - 1800 degree melting point, and silica -3000 degree melting point).

http://www.toughweld.com/products/2026-heavy-duty-welding-blanket

On the downside, a blanket likely would be susceptable to absorption of oil, and once installed not easily replaced. Paul K runs a business where they do a fair amount of welding, and he is going to do a bit on non-scientific testing to see how well one of his blankets (probably fiberglass) holds up both to a direct flame as well as it effectiveness as a non-conductor of heat.

Just a thought for you and others interested in this issue. By the way, I don't think I've ever read the temperature output of your flame thrower. How does it compare to the 2000 degree requirement of the FAA?

I'll ask Paul K to update us on what he learns.
 
Hi All,

I am at the stage of planning the insulation and my idea is to use the fibrefrax stuff with no glue. I plan to cut out .025 panels with lightening holes that will pop rivet (s/s rivets) in place and sandwich the fibrefrax in place.

I will use two sheets of the fibrefrax to make it up to 1/4" and then because there will be a nice barrier, I may glue (high temp stuff) vinyl on top of the .025 sheet to give it a nice finish.

What does everyone think? I feel that the standard s/s then 1/4" of fibrefrax and a sheet of alu with vinyl will be reasonably fire retardent whilst giving good insulation and sound proofing. pop rivets rather than glue on the s/s should help stop the nasty stuff shown in the pictures in this thread?

Bob - RV6
 
I'm still wondering about the overall benefit of firewall insulation. If the fuel flow is immediately shut off, then the best source of keeping the fire going is lost. This leaves engine oil, but it's not being atomized to it's best burning potential.... as it would be in an oil fed furnace. The fiberglass cowl & windscreen is of concern too.

However, living next to an airport, as I do; there was a near new Commander which developed an exhaust fitting leak & created an engine fire. This litterly crashed right across the street, the year before my house was completed and the other homes were just foundations. I don't know the comlete story as to what the pilot did to limit fuel, and the conditions of what kept the fire going.

I suppose I'd like to see a test in which the engine has to burn on it's own, by just using it's own oil for fuel. A fan would have to be blowing across it, of course.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
DanH said:
Bob,
A 0.125" layer of fiberfrax with a 0.003" stainless foil cover sheet will do a good job. A 0.25" layer plus foil will (obviously) insulate twice as well.

Forget the aluminum/vinyl cover sheet.

Fasten with SS pop rivets. Use a small, thin SS large area washer under the head. The fiberfrax/foil sandwich will pillow a bit, like a button in upholstery. No problem.

Seal the edges (like around the firewall flange or motor mount spigots) with 3M Fire Barrier 2000 or similar.

If it is necessary to join two edges, overlap the stainless foil, fixate as necessary with rivets, then seal with good aluminum duct sealing tape. The tape merely keeps oil and dirt out of the joint. Aluminum tape will burn away instantly in the event of a fire. No problem; that's why you overlapped the stainless foil.

The above engine-side barrier does not allow the use of Darwin-award insulation on the cockpit side.

Click to expand...

Resurrecting this thread, again...

Dan, I presume that's your firewall in the pic? Is/would this be something that's practical to install as a retrofit to a populated firewall?

I purchased the 1/2" ceramic wool and some .005" aluminum foil some time ago from McMaster-Carr, from which I planned to make insulated sections such as those discussed elsewhere. Installed on the inside of the firewall; I figured on using safety wire or some other mechanical attachment. Already have cardboard templates of the firewall sections, etc.

I now have the engine hung, battery box, heater valve (st. steel) and other stuff bolted to the firewall. Electrical & cable penetrations installed, but no wiring and no control cables yet. It's depressing to contemplate removing all that stuff, but the firewall side insulator is attractive. Might it be possible to install around the stuff I already have installed?
 
DanH said:
Lars, yes, that is mine, and yes, you can retrofit. Nothing is hard unless you think it is hard.

Like most I started out looking at insulating from the cabin side. My own engine was hung with control cables in place before testing showed superior results by insulating the engine side. I pulled the cables and unbolted the engine mount at the fuselage attach points.....much faster than fooling with the dynafocal mounts.

You could cut around some things; a razor blade works fine with stainless foil. R&R whatever will unbolt. Most bolted stuff can be installed with the insulation sandwiched between component and firewall.
Click to expand...

Check. In thinking about it a bit more, insulating on the engine side sounds a heckuva lot easier than the contortions I'd need to carry out my (and your) original plan. Going from memory, I think I might even be able to get something in between engine mount and firewall without too much trouble, saving me the hassle of engine r&r. Where did you use rivets to attach the material in your installation? Seems to me that sandwiching the insulation between some of the firewall components (battery tray and heater valve, for example) would serve to fasten the material in at least some areas.
 
Originally Posted by DanH
Bob,
A 0.125" layer of fiberfrax with a 0.003" stainless foil cover sheet will do a good job. A 0.25" layer plus foil will (obviously) insulate twice as well.

Forget the aluminum/vinyl cover sheet.

Fasten with SS pop rivets. Use a small, thin SS large area washer under the head. The fiberfrax/foil sandwich will pillow a bit, like a button in upholstery. No problem.

Seal the edges (like around the firewall flange or motor mount spigots) with 3M Fire Barrier 2000 or similar.

If it is necessary to join two edges, overlap the stainless foil, fixate as necessary with rivets, then seal with good aluminum duct sealing tape. The tape merely keeps oil and dirt out of the joint. Aluminum tape will burn away instantly in the event of a fire. No problem; that's why you overlapped the stainless foil.

The above engine-side barrier does not allow the use of Darwin-award insulation on the cockpit side.


I think I found all of these items on aircraftspruce except for the stainless steel foil. Where does one find that stuff?
 
McMaster

miyu1975 said:
I think I found all of these items on aircraftspruce except for the stainless steel foil. Where does one find that stuff?
Click to expand...

Here is a 25' roll of .002 309 stainless. This is what I plan to use. Note that 309 stainless is good to 2250 degrees, 304 is good to 1600. Not sure it makes much difference in this application as the insulating material should remain intact.

Also got a roll of stainless tape from McMaster.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#32645k83/=67vi3w
 
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Compelling data

Dan,

I just found these informative posts while searching for anything firewall related. How did your stainless foil, fiberfrax, mounted engine side tests turn out as far as radiant energy into the cabin?

Mcmaster Carr has .002" stainless foil. What are your thoughts on the thinner foil?

I'm regretting painting the aluminum angle on the backside of the firewall now.

One last question. Would the 3M Fire Barrier 2000 work as a through the firewall penetration sealant also?
 
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Quote:
I'm regretting painting the aluminum angle on the backside of the firewall now.

Yep.

WHY?...I have primed mine...but not painted.
 
My solution: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000.php I put it on the firewall engine side. Not as pretty as shiny stainless, but my thinking is to insulate heat transfer, dampen sound, and add some protection in case of fire. Probably not the perfect solution, but is easier to apply to engine side than pilot side. Used 1/4 standoffs to attach hd-wr to firewall, a little more work, but doable. Stuff has stainless on the outside,1/4 inch ceramic filler, and alum on firewall side. Used clips rivited on with the cowling hinges for the edges, sealed the rest with stainless tape. I did do a "sort-a" test, took a sample and blasted with propane torch---stainless turned cherry red and ceramic filler smoked slightly, so extrapolating further, figure that I have 3 to 5 min before my tenni-sneakers start to melt. (purely a hap-hazard guess on my part). :D
 
mark schoening said:
My solution: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000.php I put it on the firewall engine side. Not as pretty as shiny stainless, but my thinking is to insulate heat transfer, dampen sound, and add some protection in case of fire. Probably not the perfect solution, but is easier to apply to engine side than pilot side. Used 1/4 standoffs to attach hd-wr to firewall, a little more work, but doable. Stuff has stainless on the outside,1/4 inch ceramic filler, and alum on firewall side. Used clips rivited on with the cowling hinges for the edges, sealed the rest with stainless tape. I did do a "sort-a" test, took a sample and blasted with propane torch---stainless turned cherry red and ceramic filler smoked slightly, so extrapolating further, figure that I have 3 to 5 min before my tenni-sneakers start to melt. (purely a hap-hazard guess on my part). :D
Click to expand...
I am thinking about this material also. Do you have any pictures of your installation? I am particularly interested in the details of how you fastened the material to the firewall.
 
mark schoening said:
My solution: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000.php I put it on the firewall engine side. Not as pretty as shiny stainless, but my thinking is to insulate heat transfer, dampen sound, and add some protection in case of fire. Probably not the perfect solution, but is easier to apply to engine side than pilot side. Used 1/4 standoffs to attach hd-wr to firewall, a little more work, but doable. Stuff has stainless on the outside,1/4 inch ceramic filler, and alum on firewall side. Used clips rivited on with the cowling hinges for the edges, sealed the rest with stainless tape. I did do a "sort-a" test, took a sample and blasted with propane torch---stainless turned cherry red and ceramic filler smoked slightly, so extrapolating further, figure that I have 3 to 5 min before my tenni-sneakers start to melt. (purely a hap-hazard guess on my part). :D
Click to expand...
Mark, what is the reason for the stand-offs? Wouldn't that allow the fire behind your insulation?
 
I will have pic of install soon, tax season--:mad:-- to attach, used alum clips along edge, bout every 6-8 in, riveted on with cowl hinge--only for temp support as all hdwr on firewall help hold on. NO glue used as I want no fumes. Edge also taped with some stainless tape mostly to protect my hands as the stainless edge is SHARP !! As for standoffs, used 1/4 inch long alum tube over the bolt between firewall and object to keep the hardware object from crushing the firewall material (also 1/4 in thick) when tightened down. Just used 1/4 in longer bolt to attach (example--primer, fuel strainer, master and starter relays, electrical stuff) Tip: put strip of clear plastic behind bat + term so not to ground it on firewall. Ask how I know--:eek: Insulation is tight to firewall and taped on the edges so fire under insulation is unlikely-- I hope. Probably not the absolute best solution, but fireproof insulation on the engine side seems better and easier to installthan on the pilot side .
 
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fire wall protection

Dan, thanks for the info on firewall and insulation. It is really helpful.

Has anyone installed cowl flaps? It seems like a tight cowl flap could almost choke off an oil fire. Fire will follow the air path, and if the air path could be shut down, it might cut down on the blow torch effect.

Once upon a time I recall seeing something about a port to stick your fire extinguisher in and spray the output into the engine compartment. Any one done anything like that?
 
AS firewall insulation

mark schoening said:
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/5759/jkhgfjgfjgflgfaj029.jpg
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7546/jkhgfjgfjgflgfaj031.jpg

Hope these pics help--
Click to expand...
Mark, I don't mean to flame you (sorry bout the pun), but I see some copper tubing in the engine compt pics. Copper is very susceptable to vibration, and a break in a flamable fluid line can cause the very problem you are insulating against. Even if the copper lines do not carry flamable fluid, You may want to re-consider the copper tube in the engine compt.
 
So, Dan, What did you finally settle on?

Hi Dan,

I read through this thread again. Thank you for sharing your experiments. This sounds like something that I need to do to my bird.

What did you finally settle on as the ideal forward of the firewall insulation sandwich? Was it the .125 fiberfrax with .003 stainless steel foil on the front?

Is there anything safe to put on the cabin side as a sound insulator?

Regards,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
 
Has anyone found a source for a woven 1/8" or 1/4" ceramic blanket? No sizing or anything else. Just the regular old woven blanket?

Thanks,
Phil
 
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