What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Instrument Panel Treatment Similar to the Factory RV-12

N

newamiga

Well Known Member
Guys,
I searched the forum but could't find reference to a treatment that is similar to the factory RV-12 black panel treatment. It looked to me to be a stick on treatment. I spoke to the Synergy guys at Sebring last week. They indicated that they send off the panel to get the treatment done but thought that there might be a stick on treatment that a builder could use. Is anyone aware of a product to do this?

Thanks
Carl
 
I used this 3M product, it works well. Has a nice texture and depth.

http://www.carbonfiberfilm.com/

DSC_8414_zps582f9c29.jpg
 
Andy, what round head black screws did you use? I have some AN515B6R8 but they are not shiny like yours.
thanks.
 
I've been planning on trying the 3M carbon fiber-like vinyl. Haven't figured out what to do with the split panel the -12 has, though. I think it would be impossible to make it look good doing each of the three pieces separately but I'm not sure how durable the edges would be if the whole thing were covered then slit the joints. Maybe cover the whole thing and hope I never have to separate the parts ...
 
Carbon Fiber Panel

Carl,

I used the 3M Carbon Fiber tape on my RV-4 panel and am very pleased with the results. The screws are are all normal instrument screws painted with Satin Black (matches perfectly) and clear coat satin (rattle cans).

The 3M tape is easy to work with and easy to trim, pic below:

Oly

15nnax4.jpg
 
I used the 3M DINOC carbon fiber-like stick-on product (from MetroStyling) for my panel. It came out great! A word or two of caution:

-- File down the edges of all panels that are covered and abut each other to provide for the additional thickness of the abutting wrapped panel edges (By golly, Van's tolerances are tight! :p) BTW, wrap the edges of each panel - I would definately not try to do the entire panel with one piece of vinyl.

-- Use the available special contact cement for reinforcing critical edge openings, screw hole areas, etc. You may find that the vinyl material puckers-up a bit under the screw heads (I use nylon washers under the screw heads) - no big deal unless such trivial things drive you nuts.

There is quite a lot of past discussion on this subject in this forum.
 
Last edited:
for black or color matched screws, just grab a handy cardboard box, poke holes in it with a screwdriver or anything handy, and spray the screwheads with a rattle can or airbrush. Don't drive yourself crazy trying to find black oxide finished screws. Painted stainless is non-magnetic to boot, if you are concerned about that.

Oh, and make extras!
 
DHeal said:
I used the 3M DINOC carbon fiber-like stick-on product (from MetroStyling) for my panel. It came out great! A word or two of caution:

-- File down the edges of all panels that are covered and abut each other to provide for the additional thickness of the abutting wrapped panel edges (By golly, Van's tolerances are tight! :p) BTW, wrap the edges of each panel - I would definately not try to do the entire panel with one piece of vinyl.

-- Use the available special contact cement for reinforcing critical edge openings, screw hole areas, etc. You may find that the vinyl material puckers-up a bit under the screw heads (I use nylon washers under the screw heads) - no big deal unless such trivial things drive you nuts.

There is quite a lot of past discussion on this subject in this forum.
Click to expand...

Good info, Dave, thanks. I couldn't find any discussions about this, must have not picked good search terms.
 
My RV-12 panel came out looking just like Joeri's in the above picture. I used the dark gray version of DINOC instead of their black version. Like Joeri's, my diagonal patterns all nicely aligned at the joints - however in my case that was more luck than skill! Also, you can judiciously use heat to wrap the edges and corners - beware however, your wife's hair dryer might be a better choice than the lowest setting on a heat gun - do test samples first.
 
Wow.. thanks for all the info. Those are some nice looking panels and exactly how I want mine to look.

Carl
 
tomkk said:
Joeri, is that a carbon fiber applique or vinyl or something else? The whole effect, including the joints, is very nice ...
Click to expand...

Hi Tom,

It's also the 3M DINOC vinyl. Works great. To make it easy you will need a heathgun and a sealing iron for e.g. monokote (model aircraft). Like mentioned earlier it's best to use plastic washers underneath the screw heads otherwise the vinyl will damage.
Joints take some time, but easy to do. Peel off a little strip of the protecting film and stick to the already done panel so that the pattern aligns. Put the next instrument panel underneath, remove the film and your done.
 
Last edited:
3M Tape

Carl,

Dave is right about the screws, they will pucker the tape if you don't use plastic washers. I didn't realize that when I did my panel. I ended up trimming the tape around the holes so the screws wouldn't have tape to pucker and touched up the small area with the black satin paint.

Gagarin737 also brings up the most important point, you WILL need a good heat gun. Don't use a hair dryer, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a good heat gun (in the paint section I think). Even though you mess up areas around joints all you have to do is peel it off a bit and use the heat gun to form it back into shape. You will also need a hard plastic squegge to smooth out the tape as you apply it. Don't worry, this stuff is pretty tough and easy to work with. I did my whole panel in one piece. It took a while but if you take your time and have patience it will turn out fine.

Oly
 
Last edited:
AircraftWraps provides 3M carbon 1080 film in many different colors.

Our price is less then most and we provide only premium level vinyl.

Example: Our 3M Black Carbon Fiber with texture 60"x36" is $90 while the listed site sells 48"x36" for $90.

You can order simply by emailing [email protected].

Regards,

Scott
 
Gagarin737 said:
Hi Tom,

It's also the 3M DINOC vinyl. Works great. To make it easy you will need a heathgun and a sealing iron for e.g. monokote (model aircraft). Like mentioned earlier it's best to use plastic washers underneath the screw heads otherwise the vinyl will damage.
Joints take some time, but easy to do. Peel off a little strip of the protecting film and stick to the already done panel so that the pattern aligns. Put the next instrument panel underneath, remove the film and your done.
Click to expand...

Good call on the plastic washers.

If you wish to not use the washers... dab a little dish soap on the spot. Wipe away dish soap with wet cloth after.
 
I did my RV12 in silver. I went with the non-countersunk screws with silver washers - I like the look with the background. The engine control labels and N-number were made at a local trophy shop. (The screws under the engine label are countersunk.)

Full%2520Panel.JPG


and another:

Left%2520Side.JPG
 
GoN4Broke said:
Love the look but I have a question. I countersunk all the screw holes as I was originally planning on painting. Now having seen this I plan to use the wrap. Just wondering if I will have problems installing it with all those countersunk holes. Any thoughts ?
Click to expand...

Jim, I also countrsunk my mounting holes, and was wondering the same thing. If you ever get any info on this, please post it. I sure like the look, and utility of the wrap.

Tom
 
I just had my panel done by Protech Composites, the company doing the work for Synergy on the S-LSA panel. Price was $315.60. Pricey but I liked the look and Protech was excellent to work with.

Unfortunately, before I visited Synergy and saw that they did not countersink, I had already done the deed per the plans. This does cause a problem because the countersinking is done to a depth such that the screw heads are flush with the aluminum. With the carbon fiber in place the screw heads are depressed the thickness of the carbon fiber which is very noticeable and not the way you will want it.

Solution: Use a round headed screw as Synergy does, only with a bigger head to cover the countersink. The AN526C632R8 screws you already have will work but something with a wider head may be preferable. Paint them black as Synergy does and it will look just fine.

Better solution: Buy new panel pieces. Doesn't cost that much.

You will also have to make adjustments to the map box door if you have already installed it. The cam lock catch did not want to fully turn and lock in place. Minor adjustment required. A better solution would be dual Skyviews:). I am not going that route::(
 
A washer under the AN526C632R8, as Bill H did might be a better idea than a larger screw because a washer would prevent possible screw damage to the panel overlay.

Using the ugly countersunk screws until after certification of course!;)
 
Thanks all for your input. I was afraid their might be puckering if I tried to use flush screws. I think I will go with washers under round headed screws and see if I like it. If not I can always replace the panel.
 
sandpiper said:
A washer under the AN526C632R8, as Bill H did might be a better idea than a larger screw because a washer would prevent possible screw damage to the panel overlay.

Using the ugly countersunk screws until after certification of course!;)
Click to expand...

In the Van's RV-12 site gallery, it looks like they used round head screws on top of the carbon fiber. http://flyrv12.com/gallery/
 
Last edited:
GoN4Broke said:
Thanks all for your input. I was afraid their might be puckering if I tried to use flush screws. I think I will go with washers under round headed screws and see if I like it. If not I can always replace the panel.
Click to expand...

No puckering with flush screws with mine because they adjusted their program for the diameter of the countersink. Due to the thickness of the overlay, and the fact I already did the countersink to be flush with the bare panel, the result is a screw head depressed below the overlay surface. You wouldn't have to do it that way but I did. And that's why I want to use a round headed screw maybe with a washer with a larger diameter than the countersink.

Protech uses real carbon fiber material, not an overlay with a carbon fiber print. Their application process involves adhesive, suction(vacuum), and heat. The finished overlay is about 0.021" thick. Even though it is rigid and has some strength, I'm sure it would pucker using a small round headed screw over a countersink.
 
tomkk said:
In the Van's RV-12 site gallery, it looks like they used round head screws on top of the carbon fiber. http://flyrv12.com/gallery/
Click to expand...

Yes, they did. But they did not countersink as the plans call out.

If I had it to do over I would not have done the countersink. But, I did that work before I started looking into using the carbon fiber.

The screws I will use will have a slightly larger head than Synergy uses. They will have a larger head diameter than the countersink. I put part of the panel up with a few of the larger screws and it looks fine. Even better once I paint the screws.
 
What if you did use the countersunk headed screws, but added those little plastic washers that we got from Vans with the kit. They should follow the contour of the countersink, not spin, and keep the vinyl from wrinkling. Just a thought!

Tom
 
Last edited:
todehnal said:
What if you did use the countersunk headed screws, but added those little plastic washers that we got from Vans with the kit. They should follow the contour of the countersink, not spin, and keep the vinyl from wrinkling. Just a thought!

Tom
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I get the picture. Are you saying this would raise the screw head to be level with the carbon fiber surface?
 
sandpiper said:
I'm not sure I get the picture. Are you saying this would raise the screw head to be level with the carbon fiber surface?
Click to expand...

No. I think that thin plastic washer will take on the conical shape of the chamfer on the screw, fit nicely into the countersunk panel, and hold the vinyl in place without wrinkling it. It may be worth a try for anyone who has already countersunk their panels.

Tom
 
todehnal said:
No. I think that thin plastic washer will take on the conical shape of the chamfer on the screw, fit nicely into the countersunk panel, and hold the vinyl in place without wrinkling it. It may be worth a try for anyone who has already countersunk their panels.

Tom
Click to expand...

Another option to consider, especially using vinyl. However, the carbon fiber overlay like on the factory 12's is hard, not much give, and it definitely won't wrinkle. But it probably would scar.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top