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Replacing my interior

Tim 8-A

Well Known Member
Sponsor
I'm in the process of replacing my interior.
I'm replacing everything except the carpet, I modified the Flightline side panels to cover the bottom half of the interior wall. I'm using Aerosport interior panels.
My plan is to remove the flightline fabric form the doors, then strip and paint. I am going to repaint the inside exposed areas and want to match the Tan Aerosport side panels.

Has anyone found a good match with paint color?
If not I'll take a panel down to English color and have it matched.

Behind the front seats I would like to use Aerosport headliner but without having a overhead console I will have a seam down the center. Wondering what others have done.
 
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The leather color can vary somewhat from hide to hide. The paint that matched mine might not match yours. I would take a piece to your paint shop and have them match it. How about a piece of leather or fabric to cover the center strip.

Jim Berry
RV-10
 
I used the tan Aerosport panels. I took a panel to the local auto paint store and they matched it for me. To get a texture finish on the paint, I added flatener agent to the paint. Then I sprayed a final light mist using only a couple PSI which spit the paint on the surface and left a nice texture that mimics the panel texture.
For the headliner, you could create a center piece by laying up a couple layers of glass to join the two halves. Then install it as one piece after you glue on the headliner material.
Aerosport will also sell you flat sheets of the tan Kydex, and you can make your own panels for the lower rear.
 
Tim using our head liner without a overhead console is no problem.
Here is a picture of Ivan's headliner

Geoff
0_0_db99d598900c82f59021414d66b61548_1
 
Thanks Geoff looks good, I will be ordering the kit.
I got the front seats back from the upholstery shop today, I am thinking beautiful day all I need to do is slide them in and 4 bolts per seat and I can be flying. I know if I'm going to remove the flightline headliner now is time, while I have the interior apart. So after little debate I decide to pull it out,.... well there is no turning back now.
I didn't expect the surfaces to be finished but I wasn't expecting them to need this much work. I'm so lucky I have a very good friend that spends a lot time with me at the hangar working on a variety of projects, mine and his, well this time I am thankful to have the help.
Here is the ceiling, I would love to see pictures of what others have done that didn't use a overhead console.
He is working on the ceiling while I strip the doors and get them ready for paint.


What a mess
[URL=http://s146.photobucket.com/user/tecprotb/media/RV-10/IMG_2773_zpsd8ed1085.jpg.html][IMG]http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/tecprotb/RV-10/IMG_2773_zpsd8ed1085.jpg


 
Tim,

Take a look at the SEM color chart.

I would recommend painting your panels with the SEM vinyl/plastic paint. This will protect your panel from uv. Geoff's panels haven't been around long enough for anyone to know what impact uv will be.

If use use SEM on the panels, you can get paint for the fiberglass/metal interior that matches.

I have an overhead, but if you look on my build site, you can find some photos of my cabin cover with a mirror smooth finish. Geoff used mine as a mold for the headliners. It probably took me a week to get the interior smooth.
 
Thanks Bob for the suggestion but I have already had a color match done by a local auto paint supply. I am going to match the interior panels, I am worried about the panels scratching if I paint them.
I have Zac sending me pictures of a smaller overhead that only covers the front half of the cockpit.

I would like to see pictures of any other ideas out there.

I installed Plane Around 90 degree cam kit today while I had the doors off, I should be ready for paint tomorrow.
I guess its pretty standard the first door took 1/2 day while the second took a few hours.
 
Chevy pickup, Suburban, and Tahoe have overhead consoles that work nicely in the RV 10.

Old threads with photos are in the archives.
 
Well we got the interior painted and the interior panels back in, I might leave it as is, I wont now for sure until I get the doors on.
I started panting the doors and man what a mess the Fiberglass was no where ready to paint pin hole by the thousands. I hate body work.
Here are few pics, I really like the ultra leather seats.

Before

After


 
After another long weekend the doors are painted and installed.
I read a statement here on the forum that describes me too well, "its not healthy when you are sitting in church planning your next move". That's why I couldn't build from scratch, once I get stated on something I get tunnel vision until its complete. The doors turned out to be a lot more work than expected. They required a lot of filler to get them ready for paint. Once painted and reinstalled it didn't take long to figure out the new installed door seal wasn't sealing as well as the original vans style. I went with the seal installed around the door jam. I had to remove the pin guides and move them up about 1/8" to get the door to pull in and down as they should have to begin with. To cover up imperfections around the glass I used black silicone, it didn't go well either, It took me two tries to get the silicone bead correct. I learned the hard way, that you remove the tape as soon as the silicone is installed. I like how the cabin has come out, I don't think I will add anything in the ceiling unless I can find something that just covers the door hinge nuts. The only thing left is the rear headliner.
Before





A commit about the Plane around cam locks, I'm not sure what others have done but I left the center cam extended as far out on the shaft as possible. Then the door is completely closed the cam has approximately 1/8" gap between the block. The cam starts the pulling of the door and the pins make the final closure.
 
Lookin' good

I was at Tim's hanger on Saturday while the doors were still off. The pictures don't do it justice ... it's looks better than pictures.
 
I have the Chevy S-10 overhead console which laps over and fits the ceiling contour well with the Aerosport rear panels. $35 on eBay and I get 2 point lights, a rear overhead light, and an OAT and compass direction indicator for passengers. Looks nice.

What adhesive did you use for the fabric to fiberglass on the headliner? In humid Oregon winter weather I have had issue with it releasing.
 
I have the Chevy S-10 overhead console which laps over and fits the ceiling contour well with the Aerosport rear panels. $35 on eBay and I get 2 point lights, a rear overhead light, and an OAT and compass direction indicator for passengers. Looks nice.

What adhesive did you use for the fabric to fiberglass on the headliner? In humid Oregon winter weather I have had issue with it releasing.

I used Permatex Headliner adhesive. It's been on for about a year now, but admittedly, my RV-10 was a hangar queen unitl last month when I started Phase I.

bob
 
I have the Chevy S-10 overhead console which laps over and fits the ceiling contour well with the Aerosport rear panels. $35 on eBay and I get 2 point lights, a rear overhead light, and an OAT and compass direction indicator for passengers. Looks nice.

What adhesive did you use for the fabric to fiberglass on the headliner? In humid Oregon winter weather I have had issue with it releasing.

Doug do you have a picture you could post of your overhead?
The adhesive in mine is not holding either, I'm removing the headliner and installing Aerosport panels.
 
Tim/Doug,

What adhesive did you use? Did you apply it to both the headliner and the headliner cloth? Did you use multiple coats per Geoff's instructions?

Or are you referring to keeping the headliner fiberglass attached to the cabin cover? If so, the cabin cover needs to be relatively smooth and sealed, otherwise the adhesive of the Velcro will dry out. I used Velcro brand industrial strength Velcro. It's held just fine.

Bob
 
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