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Rivet squeezer didn?t budge a -6 rivet

nohoflyer

Well Known Member
Patron
I?m no body builder but I?m not a wimp either. I tried using my Cleveland hand rivet squeezer on a 426-6 rivet and could not generate the force required to actually squeeze it.

What is the max rivet size for the hand squeezer and when do you have to break out the gun?
 
Are you referring to an AN426AD6-? or a AN426AD4-6 ?

You should have no issues squeezing a AN426AD4-6 if the ram is adjusted properly. If you don’t have an adjustable ram, I would highly suggest you get one.
 
The AN426AD4-6 rivet. Ram seemed to be adjusted properly. I literally couldn?t get it to budge.
 
An426AD4-x rivets

On almost all of these, I have to double squeeze. First to get it started, and then to final after tightening ram. In really tough spots may do three. Otherwise, my force to squeeze dislodges rivet and it comes out ugly.
 
Do you have the main squeeze squeezer or the Avery one with the big fat red handles? The Avery one is much harder to squeeze. Two step squeezing is a good idea on tough ones if you have issues.
 
If at all possible, buck the rivet. Far more control over how the head turns out. That said, I have a main squeeze, and I'll often double or triple squeeze a rivet, with in reason of course. I've also found that when squeezing -4s, as they get longer, you gotta be nuts on or slightly shorter than the optimal un-squeezed size, or they'll heal over on you. Bucking is not hardly half as critical that way....
 
Another piece of advice someone once shared with me is to use as thin a set as you can on the yoke and ram for longer rivets. This ensures that you are working on the power curve of the cam action that is driving the ram. If the whole mess is too tight, the cam action does not have a chance to do its job.
 
If you can get a squeezer in there you can set it with a gun. Where you installing a -6 rivet? A bolt would work too.
 
The hand squeezer just seems like it would be easier and more consistent. Also, less of a chance for smileys. Am I wrong in this thought? What would be the point of having the squeezer then.
 
The hand squeezer just seems like it would be easier and more consistent. Also, less of a chance for smileys. Am I wrong in this thought? What would be the point of having the squeezer then.

I squeeze everything possible to squeeze that makes sense. Everyone has their own style and preference, you will find yours. To each their own.
 
If you can get a squeezer in there you can set it with a gun. Where you installing a -6 rivet? A bolt would work too.

Van's does not recommend mixing different fastener types where they were not part of the original design. Something about different fastener types won't share the shear load the same/properly and could weaken the overall assembly.
 
Another trick if you are having issues with tipping the shop side because the rivet is on the long side and it’s hard to stay square is to put a -3 cup set on the tail side for the initial squeeze. It ensures you are square and starts the shop head. Then switch to a flat set to finish. If you have a row,you can start them all with the cup set and them come back with the flat. No need to keep switching on each rivet. I used this trick on the forward lower longerons on the 8 that are at an odd angle. Worked great. Give it a try.

Update: It may have been a -4 cup set. The -3 seems too small. It's been a few months!
 
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Drive rivets

I squeeze everything possible to squeeze that makes sense. Everyone has their own style and preference, you will find yours. To each their own.

Funny. To each his own is right. I drive with gun and bar more often. The only time I use a squeezer is a row of rivets all exactly the same length and thickness of material.
Guess you get comfortable with techniques.
 
I squeeze everything possible to squeeze that makes sense. Everyone has their own style and preference, you will find yours. To each their own.

True, after shooting thousands of rivets at work I prefer to shoot them. My pneumatic squeezer won't do a -6.
 
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