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Re-drilling canopy roller?

AAflyer

Well Known Member
I screwed up one of my canopy rollers when I mis-measured, resulting in insufficient edge distance.
Based on the fact that these parts are steel, and that, when closed, there won't be much force applied to this connection, I'm thinking of re-drilling in the fore-aft direction ( 90 degrees to this mis-drilled holes) a litter lower.
Insane? or OK?
IMG_7564_zpsddmdmc4w.jpg
 
Not a bad idea if the nut will fit between the bottom tube of the canopy and the canopy rail (don't know why it wouldn't). Structurally you should be ok, there is a lot of material between the holes. You will still have the old hole in the canopy tubes that you will look at every time you climb in.
 
I did the exact same thing when I raised the canopy slightly to fit a new flat wrap windscreen. No problems so far in several years of flying
 
My turn ....

I have yet to do this and will happen anytime soon. Thanks for sharing and forewarning
 
Edge Distance?

I screwed up one of my canopy rollers when I mis-measured, resulting in insufficient edge distance.
Based on the fact that these parts are steel, and that, when closed, there won't be much force applied to this connection, I'm thinking of re-drilling in the fore-aft direction ( 90 degrees to this mis-drilled holes) a litter lower.
Insane? or OK?
IMG_7564_zpsddmdmc4w.jpg

I don't think I would sweat the edge distance of that particular part. It serves no structural function during flight (the windscreen bezel really contains the canopy) and the rollers are very lightly loaded on the ground.

Skylor
 
Thanks for responses...

I was surprised that Van's Builder Support answered same day (sorry to dis, but e-mails responses can take days...) and they confirmed that the only problem was screw head clearance between canopy frame and bow, as BonitaRV8 said.
I'll still put a screw in the bad hole, just to close it up.
FWIW, I did this because I had the left side shimmed slightly high, so the canopy would fit snug in the bow molding. I just didn't measure the height of the roller post accurately, and couldn't see my mistake since I was match-drilling the 2 parts in-place.
Now, out to the garage to re-drill!!
 
I was surprised that Van's Builder Support answered same day (sorry to dis, but e-mails responses can take days...) and they confirmed that the only problem was screw head clearance between canopy frame and bow, as BonitaRV8 said.
I'll still put a screw in the bad hole, just to close it up.
FWIW, I did this because I had the left side shimmed slightly high, so the canopy would fit snug in the bow molding. I just didn't measure the height of the roller post accurately, and couldn't see my mistake since I was match-drilling the 2 parts in-place.
Now, out to the garage to re-drill!!

Bruce,

Just to clarify from my E-mail answer yesterday...

That would probably work OK, but you?d have to use a reduced head screw (AN525 series would work) so as not to interfere with the roll bar when closed. Also ensure good Edge Distance on the roller weldment here as there is a significant 'lifting component' to the forces applied to the canopy during flight.

Option #2 is to TIG weld the holes closed on the parts and redrill with the correct ED.

Option #3 is to replace the parts with new. Your choice...
 
Just weld a short piece of tubing inside and redrill the bolt hole then you will have more than enough material to support the bolt.
 
Re-drilled

Thanks for clarifying, Joe, although I would have appreciated this more thorough response in the first email, since I immediately ran out to the shop and re-drilled, per your option 1, with adequate edge distance. BTW, there is NO interference issues for this new bolt on the -8. If this had not worked out, I would, of course, still had the other options available. I assumed that there would be lifting forces: have heard that there is not much aft ward forces from a fellow -8 driver who forgot to latch his canopy before taking off. I'm confident that I have a secure connection. Thanks for following up.
 
Thanks for clarifying, Joe, although I would have appreciated this more thorough response in the first email, since I immediately ran out to the shop and re-drilled, per your option 1, with adequate edge distance.

Bruce,

Based on your reply, maybe further analysis of the problem perhaps identifies the root cause of the problem as a rush to get the task done. The initial fit and drilling of the weldment to the frame this was off by quite a bit.

A seasoned builder once offered me the advice to heed the old carpenters of "Measure twice, cut once"... We've all made mistakes. Take the time to get it right though. Best to fix it, learn from it, and move on.
 
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