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Goofed on one of my rudder shear clips

RV-Ogler

Active Member
Page 07-09 step 4 says stiffeners go below the shear clips on the spar. I did that with all but one and only on the left side. Shear clip E. I don’t think I can easily fix this. Has any one here done something like this? The aft clips are riveted amd the skin can’t be flexed enough to fix
 

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I don't have my kit yet so I don't know the spacing there but.. couldn't you use a long #40 bit to just drill those bottom two rivets out from a slight angle?
 
I don't have my kit yet so I don't know the spacing there but.. couldn't you use a long #40 bit to just drill those bottom two rivets out from a slight angle?

I’m considering that. I’m going to see what Vans says first. If I don’t have to drill those out and risk messing up the holes then Then I won’t. Blind rivets are a PITA to drill out
 
I’m considering that. I’m going to see what Vans says first. If I don’t have to drill those out and risk messing up the holes then Then I won’t. Blind rivets are a PITA to drill out

Actually, aluminum blind rivets are easy to drill-out, if that is what Van’s suggests. Cherry max rivets, which have a steel shank, are a PITA. Just take your time and only drill enough to remove the head. Then, you can punch out the tail. Try a few test pieces to get comfortable. :)
 
Rivet Removal

Another approach is to use a Dremel with a carbide burr, but it will take a steady hand and very careful work to remove the head of the pull rivet. Drilling it could be problematic as well, as you say, it would be easy to enlarge the hole. The problem is the shank is mostly fillling the hole and the drill will not want to center well.
 
Another approach is to use a Dremel with a carbide burr, but it will take a steady hand and very careful work to remove the head of the pull rivet. Drilling it could be problematic as well, as you say, it would be easy to enlarge the hole. The problem is the shank is mostly fillling the hole and the drill will not want to center well.

The shank has to be punched out first, per Cherry procedure. It works well after that. I will attest to the tiny dremel carbide burr, hand held, machining off the head will work too, be gentle with a light touch but firm hand to hold the tool and it can easily be done. Just add skill, I like the light sweep technique.
 
Angle drill

LP4 rivets drill out very easily. Although you can probably make a long bit work, this might be a good time to pick up an air angle drill - a real one, not the attachment. They are available new and used.

I bought a used one to match drill eight bolt holes when replacing two longerons after the skins were riveted on. I figured the cost per hole was worth it.

But now I find that I use it all the time. It's an essential tool for building IMHO.

Having the right tool at the right time is priceless. And you get to buy another tool!
 
I got the rivets out and corrected the error. Was not able to punch the mandrel out due to lack of clearance. Used a close quarters hack saw to cut through the shop head and mandrel. Then Push the reminder of the mandrel out then break the head off by prying with 1/16” punch. After that I could pull the rivet out of the hole w my fingers
 
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