Engine Oil Return Port Options

In prep for my AntiSplat Aero separator that is en-route I have spent the last few days trying to remove the plug from my return port. I have been soaking it multiple times per day with liquid wrench and have tried moderate heat and a large breaker bar. I haven't been able to budge that plug. I left the allen socket in place since it amazingly hasn't stripped yet.

So, assuming I won't be able to get this thing out, is there any reason I shouldn't drill and tap the governor drive blockoff plate and use that instead? I don't have the drive adapter installed so it is just an open hole with the cover removed.

I had a VERY hard time getting that port opened myself for the same need. I got a good size propane torch from Home Depot and flamed it for 2-3 minutes and it came out super easy. So my recommendation is to try a larger torch. A small bench top super cigarette lighter won't do it. I used this one http://m.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS3000KC-Self-Igniting-Torch-Kit-330879/203368720/

Set a heat gun on it for a few minutes...

A bit less stressful than using an open flame... Try setting a heat gun on it for a few minutes.

[email protected] said:

A bit less stressful than using an open flame... Try setting a heat gun on it for a few minutes.

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I have already tried the heat gun approach set on high. I'll give it another shot and let it run longer. If that doesn't work I'll move up to the torch.

Any thoughts on adding a port to the cover as a last resort?

Plug

As a last ditch option, you could drill & tap a pipe thread into the prop governor cover plate.

Use some screwgrabber on the allen socket before it is to late, just in case

[Thank you very much for all the input. I'll give it another go when I get home today and see what happens.

I know it's scary to break out the torch but that's what you need here, even the best heat gun won't cut it for this task

Walt said:

I know it's scary to break out the torch but that's what you need here, even the best heat gun won't cut it for this task

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Yeah, I guess it is about time to break out the big guns. I was more worried about hurting something else near by like the engine mout rubber. I'll throw some scrap aluminum around the area to keep the direct heat away from the important bits and see what happens.

Colin, I ran into the exact same problem and have decided to tee into the oil return line under the #3 cylinder.

I don't want to fight that plug anymore.

Cheers,

dealfair said:

Colin, I ran into the exact same problem and have decided to tee into the oil return line under the #3 cylinder.

I don't want to fight that plug anymore.

Cheers,

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That is also a good option. Since I already have a drill and tap for the 1/8" NPT, the governor plate will be the easy way out for me if that plug refuses to let go.

This may be obvious but...when you heat it with the torch, try to heat the part moreso than the plug....

I actually had a little better performance out of "t"ing it into to the number 5 cylinder oil return tube. I just order some AN hardware, cut and flared the tube. Of course if you can get the plug out it will be much easier

With plenty of heat and a 2.5' breaker bar I got that dang fitting off. The heat was key. I actually ended up heating the plug more than anything. I think I just needed to melt whatever was holding the plug in place. Thanks for the help!

If you can get an impact wrench on the alien socket, THAT along with a little heat will get it out. Good luck...

WingsOnWheels said:

With plenty of heat and a 2.5' breaker bar I got that dang fitting off. The heat was key. I actually ended up heating the plug more than anything. I think I just needed to melt whatever was holding the plug in place. Thanks for the help!

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Congratulations! I felt like a herculean god when I got that thing removed. I think the pipe dope Lycoming uses there is some strong stuff for sure!

WingsOnWheels said:

Since I already have a drill and tap for the 1/8" NPT, the governor plate will be the easy way out for me if that plug refuses to let go.

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Right! From your photo, it looks like you have easier access to it than I do in my -4. The "course of least resistance" for me is the tee into the oil return line as Bill has done. I understand it is common practice with 540s.

Another option was to tap into the oil filler tube. Considered drilling into it then have a metal band with nipple properly aligned. I've been told Cherokees had return lines tapped into the filler tube.

Tracking down the correct sized filler tube w/oil return is more difficult, for me, than teeing into the oil return line.

Best to all,

WingsOnWheels said:

That is also a good option. Since I already have a drill and tap for the 1/8" NPT, the governor plate will be the easy way out for me if that plug refuses to let go.

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Hi Colin & All,
I followed your lead here yesterday and ended up doing the same, drill & tap the cover plate for the return. Was easier than I thought.

Just fyi, I installed my Anti-Splat separator about 2 months ago before I attempted to remove the plug on the accessory case. Oops, oh Brother, it was in TIGHT!! So there I was and wanted to go fly. I had an extra brake oil reservoir and attached it to the end of the return line; then secured that to the engine mount with tie wraps. It was very secure; but intended to be temporary.

I had performed some other duties like super sealing the plenum, baffles, etc., so I operated the engine very vigorously (for me) for right at 10 hours. I would go wot to 7,500 or 8,500 ft watching my CHTs. (I read these tips here on the forum and THEY WORK!!! Thanks Guys!! )

Yesterday, I was curious to see what was in the reservoir after this. I removed the return line and it was dry as could be. Nothing. I had cleaned the belly of the plane really good when I installed the separator. It is clean as a whistle. No oil consumption in that 10 hours.

I was suprised at how dry the return line was after my hard driving. Is that normal or to be expected??? I'm wondering if this relieves the pressure in the crankcase so much that no oil made its way into the separator??? I do know my engine is running sweet as can be and I love not being underneath my bird flopping around like a harbor seal cleaning her.

Cheers all,

Could the drain from the separator to the catch-can you were using be clogged, might want to blow some air up the drain hose, or disconnect and see if anything runs out of the sep.

By the way, this line made me LOL.

dealfair said:

I do know my engine is running sweet as can be and I love not being underneath my bird flopping around like a harbor seal cleaning her.

Cheers all,

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WingsOnWheels said:

Could the drain from the separator to the catch-can you were using be clogged, might want to blow some air up the drain hose, or disconnect and see if anything runs out of the sep.

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Yes, my first thoughts I checked for stoppage. I took the return line completely off the separator expecting something to run out. When it didn't, I pushed a wood toothpick into the separator & wobbled around and it was dry. The return line I looked through & saw daylight. I didn't check the blue line from engine to separator; but did on installation. I don't see how that big moose would be clogged. Now the separator, I don't know?? Maybe I've just not put enough time on it??

On the flopping, yeah, I'm not as young as I used to be. I make certain no one is around before I get on the creeper.

Any user feedback on the Antisplat vacuum valve for the crankcase breather? I'm likely to install the separator, not so sure the vacuum valve is worth the purchase.

Check valve evaluation...

It is hard to critically evaluate performance gains on the check valve but I expect some quality reference data from a 5,000 mile trip in a couple of weeks to Sun-n-Fun... this will be the third year in the RV and will be the first big trip with the complete air-oil separator and check valve. Also, I plan on running three of the same SARL races that I ran last year. While not a perfect comparison it will provide some additional data.

If I was to give my impression from general flight and instrumentation I would say that there is a small improvement from the check valve.

I have not flown it much, but it was easy to install. Remove exhaust, take to welder. I have noticed the belly is spotless, with not even a sticky film. As far as performance, I need to do some races to see how it stacks up. Also noticed a lack of crankcase "fog" when removing dipstick after a flight. I think it is a more good thing than a more bad thing.

airguy said:

Any user feedback on the Antisplat vacuum valve for the crankcase breather? I'm likely to install the separator, not so sure the vacuum valve is worth the purchase.

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Hi Greg,
It's my non-professional opinion the vacuum valve is what makes this combo really worthwhile. I've had various separators on other planes that just were not very good. Of course, I never dreamed of this setup until I started reading remarks from Allan Nimo & Dan Horton.

I don't think I'd get the separator without the valve. Believe I'd try doing without like Walt Aronow suggested in a thread. So far, this combination appears to really be doing a good job.

Cheers,