Fireblock failure...Don't do what I did.

After what I thought was much judicious research, I found an off-the shelf product to use in sealing my firewall; 3M FB136.

Unfortunately, while working on my baggage door, I discovered that it has cured rock-hard, has cracked, lost its integrity and has leached a white powder.
The label says its for "sealing interior construction voids around wires, pipes, HVAC ducts and vents, in wood or steel framed non-rated construction." I figured the interior restriction was not a problem, as it wasn't going to be exposed to the weather where I was using it. The label also says Store at temperatures above 32 degrees F. Again, not a problem as far as storage is concerned.
I applied this to my plane last fall, and since then it has been as cold as 5 degrees F this past winter, and this is the result.





I'm now chipping it away, and would love to hear some successful stories about what you used.

I don't understand why you thought this was necessary.

For oil seepage and such, pro-seal works well.

Carl

Biotherm

This is what I used, recommended by many..it dries like RTV and stays elastic.
http://www.planeinnovations.com/product/biotherm-bts-02/.

Good luck

....what's in a name?

Rectorseal Biotherm 100.
..........okay guys, I'm pretty sure my doctor used this after my last colonoscopy!....

You guys should read this thread.

Dan Horton has done some interesting tests and reported results for some of these materials.

I'll be using 3M Fire Barrier 2000+ on my RV-3B.

Dave

+1

David Paule said:

You guys should read this thread.

Dan Horton has done some interesting tests and reported results for some of these materials.

I'll be using 3M Fire Barrier 2000+ on my RV-3B.

Dave

Click to expand...

Per Dan's research, I am using the 3M Fire Barrier 2000+ on the firewall of my RV-10. I am also using 1/8" Fiberfrax on the firewall and 1/16" Fiberfrax on forward part of the fuse belly, sandwiched between the SS or aluminum skin and a layer of 0.001 thick stainless steel sheet.