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Panel Upgrade

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Tony_T

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Started on a SV upgrade for my RV12 :eek:
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No turning back now.
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There are two ways to go on this, you can use the conversion harnesses or better but more expensive and time consuming is to pull all the old harnesses and install the latest. I am going the latter way.:D

If any of y'all with the D-180 panel have wished for more screen space, see my ad for the Dual Display kit over on the classifieds :)
 
Best of luck with the upgrade Tony....with your attention to detail, it's going to be great. Have fun back in the tunnel :)
 
We're very lucky with the -12 that you can just order pre-made harnesses for this job. Doing a clean install is the way to go, although your sore back may not agree. Best of luck with it, Tony. Single or dual screens?
 
We're very lucky with the -12 that you can just order pre-made harnesses for this job. Doing a clean install is the way to go, although your sore back may not agree. Best of luck with it, Tony. Single or dual screens?

Single screen for now. A dual set-up could be in the future, I enjoyed my dual D-100 set-up and may miss having that screen on the right side. I got some dual in the right seat and flew my 12 from the right seat a few times and that is almost like learning to fly all over again. Also the passenger or pilot on that side usually enjoys the ride more.
 
Tony, are you going to maintain a detailed blog on the conversion? I sure would like to follow along. Looks like you are doing the job in your hangar. Not quite as convenient as the original build in the garage, for sure!
 
Well, I am not a detailed blogger guy, but I will keep this thread alive with updates, particularly where there are hidden rocks that I stumble onto :eek:.

I have been thinking about this conversion for some time. I like the new technology, most all my RV12 friends have SV, and the need to update in some manner for 2020, were factors. Then, lately, the Dynon rebate offer was a welcome plus.
My first moves were to review the plans in detail, particularly sections 42D for conversion harnesses, and 31B for new harnesses. To use new harnesses you have to do about half of section 42D to prepare the airframe. A bunch of new holes have to be made in the avionics shelf and firewall for mounting the new boxes. Then use section 31B for installing the new harnesses and all the misc connectors. I looked at each plan sheet in those two sections and made a list of parts needed and referenced them to the page number.
There were several things that could be done without actually taking the plane out of service this last summer. I wanted to fly during the good weather, but also was anxious to get some stuff done so the actual down time was minimized later.
The things that could be done ahead include:
Two new wire are needed in the wings out to the nav/strobes. One is so the nav function can be independent and the other is to sync the strobes.
This was problematic. The strings I left in the wings are really not useable. How to attach the string to the wires without a big knot or some kind that will not pass the little bushings? I decided that a better way was to use the existing wire as a pull wire to pull in three new wires. One to replace the pull wire and the other 2 wires needed. Then I stumbled on one of those hidden rocks. I found that the pull wire was not free. I had wire tied it to the ground wire out in the wing tip. On the left wing I managed to slip a piece of saftey wire in and hook the wire tie and dragged it out to where I could cut if off. Then on the right wing the same thing except there were TWO wire ties. I managed to get one off through the little hole and the other by accessing the wire after taking the landing light out.
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Once I had the dumb wire ties off, I soldered the three new wires to the pull wire leaving about 3 inches between joints and make small solder connections that would pass through the bushings. Managed to step on the hidden rocks and not get wet.

In the tailcone:
Installed the ADSB IN antenna. Installed the ADAHRS brackets. Installed the ADAHRS stiffener. All easy stuff except for getting in the tailcone.

In the cockpit:
Installed the canopy safety switch which will be monitored by the SV. Installed the new canopy catch.
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All fun if you like to tinker :D
 
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Avionics kit picked up

Aurora airport is about a 3 1/2 hour drive on I-5 from my house; that's if traffic is good, which it never is. But by RV-12 it is a little over 1 hour and the scenery is gorgeous, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mt. Saint Helens and Mt. Hood all along the way. So it was a no-brainer to fly to Van's to pick up the avionics kit. So last week we flew on down there. Wife went along and everything got packed into the baggage compartment for the ride back.

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Work day 2 after starting to uninstall the old avionics and harness and it's going well. All the avionics are out and most of it is sold.
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Opened up the cockpit inspection covers and the baggage bulkhead and started removing harness starting at the very back. The only issue is getting a work area back there. The platform in the picture rests on the frames and is propped up on wood blocks a couple inches at the back end so as not to put a strain on the elevator cables.
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It ain't real comfy but doable.
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This allowed for drilling off the magnetometer brackets. Then started to pull the wires to be removed forward. The elevator trim cable remains and the static tube remains and so does the OAT cable.
It seems to be going well. I think another day will have all the old harnesses out of the ship and I will be ready to start prepping the avionics bay and putting in new harness.
One problem, anticipated actually, is that normally the antenna cables with the big BNC ends are put through the bushings first. I am replacing the com cable because the SL40 has a different end than the new radio and I didn't want to comeshee on a new connector. It looks like I will have to pull the static tube out to make room thru the snap bushing, or maybe if I spit the bushing there will be enough room. Also, the flaperon yoke and flap handle will need to come out to make room to work. The new ADSB IN antenna cable will go through it's own new bushings.
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I am a little surprised that working on this with the fuselage on the wheels is not as bad as I anticipated. A shower and a cold one before dinner took the kinks right out of my back. But I am not looking forward to working up under the rudder pedals next time.
 
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Work day 3, spent working up under the rudder pedals.

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This was an area I was concerned about because I am removing and replacing the antenna cables and installing a new ADSB/in cable. The SL40 cable is not compatible with the new radio unless you adapt a new connector. The old cables go over the top of the rudder tubes and I was concerned that the connector would not clear with rudders installed. Actually you can unscrew the rudder bolts about 1/8 inch and the connectors will clear. So that became a non issue.
Otherwise the old harnesses removal is going about as expected.

I had to take time to make a DonFromTX tool to remove the old wing wire pins from the blue fuselage connector. I just ground down a stainless steel tweezers. The new Options Harness has the pins already installed on the wires.
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The demolition phase is almost complete. Next time I hope to clean up some loose ends and maybe start drilling holes in the instrument shelf for all those new Dynon boxes. I'm stoked.
 
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Stayed home today

Had to stay home from the hangar today because a technician was here most of the day trying to get our new (but inop) fiber optic internet and tv up and running. So I worked in my shop finishing up the new panel pieces. I'm using the 3M D-NOC vinyl carbon fiber overlay.
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I know, it's just faux carbon fiber, but I think it looks killer and putting it on is easier than painting anyway. I hope it stays on, if it peels it will be a disaster. I used the primer and did quite a bit of testing. Without the primer it is hard to pull off. With the primer it is really, really hard to pull off.

BTW, those holes for the autopilot knobs are complicated. The knobs kit comes with a template and instructions for making the holes with the panel installed. I don't see how you guys that cut those holes with the panel in the plane got it done. It is a hard job with the panel on the workbench. I read Dave Gamble's blog on that job before starting it and now I am very impressed with his accomplishment.
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It was a messy job, but if you tape/drape/cover the interior really well, most of the aluminum shavings don't remain in the aircraft...although I'm still removing them from my hair a year later!:p

BTW, by the looks of your picture, Dynon changed the printing on the front of these panels (don't see the Dynon logo any longer). Minor change, but maybe more was done. You are going to love them Tony.
 
Did you end up having to completely pull the throttle/choke/heater cables out to remove the panel? I need to pull my panel out this winter, and I keep hoping for a way to do it without needing to re-install all of the control cables. I know guys have split theirs and come up with other arrangements, just wondering how you did yours.
 
Did you end up having to completely pull the throttle/choke/heater cables out to remove the panel? I need to pull my panel out this winter, and I keep hoping for a way to do it without needing to re-install all of the control cables. I know guys have split theirs and come up with other arrangements, just wondering how you did yours.

I have been working around taking out the center panel. I'm at the point now where it has to come off, so next time I will be pulling those 3 engine cables out.
 
Autopilot knobs

I have been working around taking out the center panel. I'm at the point now where it has to come off, so next time I will be pulling those 3 engine cables out.

Does anyone know if the center panel shipping now has holes for the autopilot knobs already there? If not, is there a template available from Van's? I can't find anything on the website.

Jerre
 
Does anyone know if the center panel shipping now has holes for the autopilot knobs already there? If not, is there a template available from Van's? I can't find anything on the website.

Jerre
There is a template part number F-00073. It comes with the knobs kit. The plans section for this is 58.

There is a part number for a center panel with prepunched holes F-00044D-1. When I tried to order it, they said it was not available and I would have to cut the holes in F-00044-1.
 
Fourth work day at the hangar. Finished cleaning out the old Fuselage and Options harness. The only things left in the forward tunnel are the trim wire cable, the ELT phone cable, and the static tube.
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Had to remove the pitch servo so I could work on the wiring on the bench. For some unknown reason 6 years ago I left real short wires on the this servo and the spades need to be changed to a 9 position Molex plug. I think there is enough wire but I could not easily use tools with it in the plane. Ten minutes to get it out probably saves an hour or two messing with it in the plane.
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Instrument shelf is nice and clean now and since I was eyeball to eyeball with those engine mount brackets and I went ahead and did the rivet replacement SB. Replace 12 LP4-3 with cherries.
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Started prepping the instrument shelf for the new boxes using supplied drill templates.
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Yeah, the old center panel is still attached. Next work day I need to pull the engine cables out and take off the center panel. But, for now, it does add stiffness to the instrument shelf while working on cutting the new holes.
 
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Looking good! I tried to cut out the five openings for my SV system and did not like how it was turning out no mater how carful I was measuring, cutting and drilling. it was off! so I gave up and called Up North Aviation and had him cut my panel. it was perfect! I mean EXACT!
 
Di-Noc

Tony,

The Di-Noc Carbon Fiber on my RV-9A panel looks as good now as when I put it on several years ago. It has seen over 100degF to -10 degF in our travels. No peeling or bubbles at all. I could not be happier with it.
 
Nice and open

Hey Tony,
If you've ever considered moving your voltage regulator to mount inside below the avionics shelf, now is the time. I traced the mounting base onto a piece of thin plywood. Used it to locate and drill mounting holes from the top side.
Dave
 
Dave,
I have considered moving the regulator inside, but am not too sure I want to do that.

I know, I know, lots of other Rotax powered planes have it inside the cockpit but I would like a better option. A different regulator mounted in a better location in the engine compartment, for instance. My pal Bogey has a JD regulator mounted on the vertical firewall above the old location and that is easy to do and the JD is away from the hot exhaust pipe.
 
Alternator Location

Sounds like a good plan also, Tony!
Post a pic or two when you can.
Getting it away from the exhaust is the key I suspect.
 
Work day 5 at the hangar. BTW, my workdays are about 4 to 5 hours so you can get an idea of the time it is taking me to make this upgrade. Then take out a half hour a day for hangar visitors and a quick sandwich.

Nothing very interesting yet to report, spent this day completing the preparation of the airframe for the new stuff, drilling holes and cleaning up.
For the AV-50000A box, lots of new holes:
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Drilling the SS firewall. Good drill bits are needed, the typical hardware store bits won't touch this metal. Buy them from an aircraft tool supplier and use BoeLube. The plans have you drill a pilot hole and then enlarge it. Using a twist drill to enlarge a hole in SS doesn't work; the drill just grabs and makes a big burr. I used a small step bit to enlarge the holes; makes a nice job of it.
This is for the transponder:
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The holes for the EMS box are drilled from the engine side of the firewall. You need a right angle drill for these:
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The camera focused on the wrong place here but you get the idea.

New holes also needed in the bulkheads for the ADSB/in antenna cable.
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Now I am really looking forward to next time; it will start going back together!
 
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I have been working around taking out the center panel. I'm at the point now where it has to come off, so next time I will be pulling those 3 engine cables out.

I see that you have a fourth hole where the engine cables go. My center panel doesn't have this. Did you drill this and what is it's purpose?

Jerre
 
I see that you have a fourth hole where the engine cables go. My center panel doesn't have this. Did you drill this and what is it's purpose?

Jerre

The fourth hole is for the auto pilot disconnect button. The panel comes with a #30 hole in that spot. If you install the autopilot you drill that hole out for the button.
 
Over the hump...

No more additions to the scrap box today.
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I think my upgrade project is on the down hill side. She is starting to go back together nicely. Fuselage wiring harness is routed in (mostly). No surprises here, just kinda slow going so as not to get it tangled up or pull off any of the connectors. Van's harnesses are beautifully made, by Stein Air.
Here the fuse harness starts going in; it isn't as bad as it looks.
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All the way in up to the red band, some tidy up work in the tunnel, and things look better.
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The new panel pieces fit my 7 year old fuselage perfectly.
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Next the Options Harness has to go in. Another bundle of wires about the same as this one...
 
If you slot that center section now for your control cables, you'll never have to pull them again, should you modify that section again.
 
Post 11

Tony, may sound daft question but what are the overall outside dimensions of the cutout template?
 
Had a good day at the hangar today. Continued routing wires and installing Molex connectors for the servos and other places where the old wiring had spade connectors. Not a lot to take pictures of, but the avionics shelf is starting to look very modern, with Van's AV-50000A control module, Dynon transponder, back-up battery and EMS modules mounted.
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No real unpleasant surprises but I did stumble a few days ago when removing old wiring. I accidentally cut the OAT cable. It looks exactly like the old cables for the headset jacks. Oh well, a $75 mistake. I maybe could have spliced the wires and saved it but decided to buy a new one. The old D-180 OAT is a four wire and the SV OAT is a two wire, but the D-180 OAT can be converted with a simple adapter.

And I had visitors today! Bogash flew in with pilot friend who is writing a book about Boeing airplanes and Bogey is helping. And Wayne Johnson flew in with his new paint job and it is a beauty! Simple and elegant.
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The interior is black with gray leather seats and trim. Very nice with the yellow.
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Posted with Wayne's permission, I felt it needed to be seen. It is lovely.
 
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Parts short, to be expected.

On in-between work days, I usually review the plans for the next time. Sometimes I find something that can be a delay issue. For instance, in reviewing the installation of the new headset jack modules installation this morning I found that the headset modules do not come with the isolation washers. Since I am not working with a kit to install the wiring harnesses I don't have the isolation washers; I thought they would come with the headset jacks. These don't seem to be on the Van's web store and they are closed but both the stepped and flat isolation washers are at AC Spruce and I placed a Saturday order with them and should get the washers 1st part of the week. I am taking the weekend off, but can't wait to get back to it on Monday!
 
It's coming together!

Not alive yet, but close:
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There are lots more wires in the SV harness than I had before with the D-180 to support all the new features. Like Nav/Nav Strobe separation, ADSB in and out, the advanced autopilot knobs panels, canopy latch warning, etc.
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The SVT has two USB plugs on the back as well as the USB plug that is in the harness and installs under the panel. Dynon suggest that a double USB panel jack be installed to easily access those ports. I put one in the map box.
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So far, it has been an intense, but satisfying, project. There is a certain amount of trauma to your psych when you tear out a perfectly good panel and start a complicated replacement. But the work keeps you busy and there is no remorse once you see tangible progress. I found no real surprises. A lot of homework is involved reviewing the original plans, the SV update plans (sec 42D) and the new wiring harness plans section 31B plus the plans that come with the Avionics kit, section 42C, section 42G for the GTR 200 radio, section 42M for the control modules, section 44A for the autopilot servo wiring, and section 58 AP knobs. I spend one day at home getting getting my head around my notes and the plans between work days at the hangar.

I have been at it for 4 weeks, 3 days a week at the hangar and have about 72 hangar hours logged and don't know how many hours at home reviewing and planning.

I still need to get back into the tail cone and install the ADAHRS box. Been avoiding that task :eek:

Anyway, I am looking forward to turning on the Master very soon now and then it will be learning the new panel and putting the flight control hardware back together in the center tunnel.

I can hardly wait to get her going again and fly behind this beautiful panel!
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Looking great Tony, I am definitely borrowing your 'USB ports in the map box' idea. Can you share the source and specs of the black panel screws, I need to order them for my install. Thanks!!
 
The USB ports in the map box did not originate with me. Bill H from Peel came up with that idea. The black screws are not my idea either, Joeri from the Netherlands gave me that idea and the screw spec. The forum is a useful thing, yes? Ideas from all over the world!

You can't use these pan head screws if you have already countersunk the holes. I think I read somewhere (in the plans?) that countersinking was optional, but can't find that source now. Remember that I am working on an already certified experimental so can do what I want. Flat head screws are a recent change, the early panels were not countersunk. I know of no source for aircraft quality black flat head screws.

The black screws are AN515B6R8 sourced from Aircraft Spruce. They are anodized brass and so are softer than steel. I ordered a couple hundred because I plan to only use them once. They are pretty sturdy, I have not broken any (yet)...

I am putting them in by hand with a quality bit and using the paste Biolube on each screw. A power driver will probably mar up the black anodizing and you would not be able to feel the torque. You don't want to break them or strip the head. If one gets too tight going in you could open up the nut plate a bit with a tap, although I don't subscribe to that as a general practice.
 
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Great, thanks Tony. I did not countersink the panel holes in anticipation of using the carbon fiber overlays. I am hoping the CF panels don't put me outside of ELSA parameters. These are the same panels that Van's includes on their SLSA panel. For the USB ports, I guess I should wait until after airworthiness inspection. Thanks again for all the info!
 
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Looks good Tony. The screws are also available from McMaster and Carr. If you have countersunk, you can order a black washer from them also. Yes, they have a sturdy black finish. Thanks
 
Tony -- If you are using pan-head or round-head screws with washers on your panel, be prepared for some "puckering" of the vinyl panel overlay material around the outer circumference of the washers. Since the puckering is very symmetric on my panel screws, I don't find it visually objectionable. I used clear nylon washers under my panel screws. If I were to do it again, I would likely apply some of the overlay material manufacturer's recommended special adhesive glue at each attachment hole location. -- David
 
I used the same oxide button head screws, but found they get rusty within one year due to a bit of moist in the hanger. Look awful.
Since a few months Dynon sells bags of button heads as applied for fastening the SV1000 displays.
Cheap and much better quality. My panels all use these screws now with a small nylon ring under the head to protect the 3M wrap.
Indeed in the long run some "puckering" will show but dies not look bad.
 
Turn On Day...

Yep, turned it on today. Ran the Config to find servos and modules and it found 7 items. My servos were still at D-180 Version 5.5 firmware:

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When I ran the Update, SkyView fixed the servo firmware and everything reported "Ready".:D

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But I still did not have a Map, the result of no GPS source:

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The GPS is not on the "network" but is a serial connection (who knows why). So I found the serial setup menu and Van's had programed the GPS 250 so I changed that to the GPS 2020 and got the Map. Airplane was in the hangar so no GPS fix but the map was up:

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That red X on the LEGT was expected, it was on the blink when I took out the D-180.

Radio and headsets work. So far so good.

I have not configured the autopilot yet because I need to put the control hookups back in; will do that next week. I'm taking the holiday weekend off from airplane work.

I do have one nit -- the switch LEDs and eyeball light do not illuminate.
 
Yes, the dimmer pot is installed, connected but has no effect.

I'll have to open up that D-sub backshell and make sure I put the pins in the correct holes.
 
Tony,
As I recall there is a set up option to control the dimmer between the dash control and the Skyview panel , worth confirming you are on the right one?

Happy THanksgiving to all
 
Thanks Ben, with your info I looked it up in the Dynon installation guide and found that option described on page 15-29 of the ver. 14 guide. This is the first thing I will check when I get back to the hangar on Monday.
 
Dimmer control

Tony, recently, I connected the dimmer control, and it did not work, nor did the LEDs in the switches. Turns out that i got tripped up by the plans. The picture in the plans show the connector with pin numbers labeled differently from the actual connector. in the plans, the numbers increase from right to left, but, the connector, has them from left to right. All worked after correcting this.
 
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