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FP to CS Conversion Unintended Consequences

Scremm

Active Member
I recently converted from FP to CS and ran in to a bit of a problem?. I am sharing this in case someone else runs in to similar symptoms and in also to get community feedback.

Engine: O-360-A1A (one regular mag, one pmag, overhauled, currently w/ ~460 hours)
Governor: Jihostroj (New)
Stainless steel prop governor oil line (New)
Prop: Whirlwind 74 RV (New)

First and second ground runs had expected engine behavior and oil pressures. Logbooks updated, FSDO notified and first flight was ready to go.
On first flight, the oil pressure was initially normal on initial take off roll but after 160 seconds post take off start the oil pressure alarm went off while engine still maintained power. (The oil pressure alarm was set to go off at 25 psi.) I immediately reduced power and returned to land but before I could land the oil pressure got as low as 6 psi but then recovered to about 30. I?m thinking I would have an aircraft covered in oil but there was not a drip to be found. Therefore there could be an issue with the oil pump, prop governor, oil pressure sender, bearing or something entirely else.

In order of diagnosis over several weeks:
1. Inspect oil pressure relief valve bearing and spring ? looked normal. Adjust oil pressure relief spring by adding washers and going to heavier spring. The idle pressure was now 50 psi but adding power resulted in oil pressure drop, not rise.

2. Swap out oil pressure sender. No change in readings.

3. Disconnect prop governor oil line from prop governor adaptor and perform pressure leak down test. Results 39 over 40 and probably closer to 40 over 40. This is definitely outside the 3 to 36 acceptable range.

4. Drain oil and inspect oil filter, oil sump screen. No particles found. (I change the oil and inspect filter with every oil change and the filter has always been very clean.)

5.Remove prop governor and installed cover plate. Reconnected prop governor oil line. Ran up engine (with new oil and filter of course). The PSI at idle was stable (~50 psi with heavier spring) but adding power resulted in lower oil pressure dipping down to the 20s. Also, at high manifold pressure settings, the prop maximum rpm was ~1300.

6. Disconnected and capped off the prop governor oil line and capped off the prop governor adaptor. Now the oil pressure to the prop can only come from the #1 main bearing oil passage. Ran up the engine with the same results as before. This time I noticed that after the engine was shut down that the prop remained in full course pitch. The crank was not releasing the pressure.

7. Remove prop and inspect crank plug. Still solidly there.

My diagnosis:
After takeoff the main bearing shifted causing the oil from the #1 main bearing oil passage to have a free pass in to the sump, when the PSI reached the minimum, the bearing assumed another position resulting in a higher but still unacceptable oil pressure. Tests 4 and 5 isolated the issue to the front of the crankcase. With the current position of the bearing, the oil coming through the #1 oil port is pressurizing the prop but the clearance is so tight that it is not allowing pressure to be released. The bearing is also in such a position that it is also sapping PSI. Although the bearing has been seated fine for the prior ~460 hours, the additional oil pressure coming from the prop governor imparted a new force caused the bearing shift.
My problem seems to be very similar to this one seen by Bob Martin:

http://http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=45821

Next steps:
I?ve already talked to an engine shop but they haven?t yet reached the same conclusion.
Step back and take a break for a while?..Then likely remove engine and determine root cause and damage. I think the likely cause is an undersized bearing. The damage may be crank case halves may need to be reworked, crankshaft may be damaged, and the main bearing is most certainly junk.
 
Last edited:
Adding graph of first take off. Ten second intervals.

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Adding graph of final engine run w/ prop governor disconnected.
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I used two different pressure senders and got the same readings. With the other symptoms I am pretty confident the problem is at the front of the crankcase.
 
Lycoming SI 1462A

Typically I would do Lycoming Service Instruction 1462A when the governor is unable to maintain set RPM.

I do not understand your reduction of oil pressure so would end up doing SI1462A just to make sure that the rear plug is sealed correctly.
 
The governor was able to maintain set RPM when it was installed. When I removed the governor from the engine it was to try and isolate the issue and that is when I saw the strange low RPM behavior at higher power settings. In theory without oil pressure to the prop it should have acted at fine pitch and I should have been able to reach max RPM.

I am pretty sure I have the correct diameter orifice. I've also visually and physically inspected the crank plug and it's solidly in there. Plus the prop didn't release pressure and remained full coarse when the engine was shut down so it is really keeping the pressure in the crank in place.
 
I seem to remember an old discussion about the gasket for the prop governor and that it can be installed wrong and cause similar issues. This is just a guess and may not add any value.
 
Good idea

I seem to remember an old discussion about the gasket for the prop governor and that it can be installed wrong and cause similar issues. This is just a guess and may not add any value.

Good thought and not hard to check. But seems to be unlikely if your other tests were right. I would check this anyway.
 
If you have an internal leak in the oil pressure system, after the pump, the oil pressure should be low at idle and get improved as you increase engine and pump RPM. Your oil pressure is going down with increase in rpm with the prop governor removed and the nose bearing cavity in the crank blocked off. So to me you have eliminated all prop related issues. To me, your sequence of events doesn't suggest an internal leak. Oil pressure is going down with additional engine and pump RPM... not up. Blockage to the oil pump supply can cause good idle pressure and decreasing oil pressure as pump rpm is increased. So, my thought is there may be blockage to the oil pump. you sure a rag didn't get into the sump while doing the conversion? To me, something is causing the oil pump to have less efficiency when rpm is increased, ie inlet blockage, slipping drive etc.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
 
I have worked on a lot of engines, in cars, bikes, boats and now airplanes. 9 times out of 10, when you just modified it and find something not working right....something odd happened in the change. Like Mahlon said, a rag left somewhere or a bolt that dropped and just happened to go into a supply line. Something weird that you couldn't do on purpose, but managed to happen on accident. Before you pull the engine and split the case....just be sure you haven't assumed anything. Pull it all back off and look it over.
 
I have worked on a lot of engines, in cars, bikes, boats and now airplanes. 9 times out of 10, when you just modified it and find something not working right....something odd happened in the change. Like Mahlon said, a rag left somewhere or a bolt that dropped and just happened to go into a supply line. Something weird that you couldn't do on purpose, but managed to happen on accident. Before you pull the engine and split the case....just be sure you haven't assumed anything. Pull it all back off and look it over.

Pulling the large oil screen in the sump might be a good first step to looking for a partial blockage...
 
I'm with mahlon_r's theory. At your second point, I was thinking that something is blocking the oil from getting to the pump. Pull a mag and borescope and/or pull the screen and borescope.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take off an accessory or two and see what my my Chinese bore-scope may find. I did pull the oil screen in the sump to check it and it was clean as a whistle. This is definitely the time to take things slow. Especially with the cold Maine winters.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take off an accessory or two and see what my my Chinese bore-scope may find. I did pull the oil screen in the sump to check it and it was clean as a whistle. This is definitely the time to take things slow. Especially with the cold Maine winters.

This may be tough, depending upon your sump. My sump, from a D model, had a round chamber holding a cigar-like screen. There were two rectangular cutouts connecting the filter chamber to the main sump. If you can get a flashlight or small mirror in there, you may be able to see a blockage, otherwise, with that style pan, the major blockage would be in the main sump on the other side of the chamber wall, requiring sump removal for inspection.

Larry
 
Talk to a prop shop! Tell them what you did and ask them if they have ever seen this occur, they have likely had this or a similar occurrence and have a good idea where to look. If they have been in business for a long time and you get the guy who has been there for 30 years he can say yes or no to each probable prop / governor individual issue.
 
Eureka!

When originally I pulled out and inspected the oil sump screen it was clean so I reinstalled it and proceeded to investigate elsewhere with pressure checks, etc. I measured the play on the crankshaft and it was right on and the rotation seemed to be normal. After taking some time to ruminate on the issue and with some good suggestions on the forum I once again went back to investigate the sump even though I thought I eliminated it as an issue it still seemed to be the likely culprit. So I again pulled out the oil sump screen and this time I stuffed my el' cheapo bore scope in to take a look and I was not expecting what I did find. I don't remember stuffing this in any opening but the evidence is glaringly there....this is what I found:

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And the same offensive thing viewed from down the dipstick:

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It turns out that a paper towel got in to the sump. I likely put the paper towel in the prop governor opening overnight to keep critters out and it must have inadvertently been pushed in via the prop governor opening as I was trying to maneuver the prop governor in through all the wires, hoses, etc.

With all the research and tests I've done trying to isolate the issue I learned a lot more about this engine and built a few extra tools in the process. I'm actually thankful for what I've learned through all this. Other than the many weeks of downtime I didn't really spend many dollars to figure it out. I suffered more emotionally than anything else. I actually saved money just in the aviation fuel I didn't burn while I was grounded... I have removed the offending paper towel and will button the aircraft up for another flight tomorrow.

Thanks to the people who jumped in to help. I hope this may help someone else with similar symptoms in the future.
 
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