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Compressor installation question

diamond

Well Known Member
For those of you who have larger compressors, say 60 gal and up, here's a question. They all seem to have either 3 or 4 legs with mounting holes on each. I'm told by the sales guy that you don't want to leave it and operate it on the wood pallet it came on. Which means I either need to drill holes in my garage floor and bolt it down, or something else. What are other viable alternatives, if any, other than bolting it to the garage/shop floor? Photos would be helpful.
 
Mine sets on small wood blocks with rubber on top and bottom. Not anchored down. Been working fine that way for over 20 years.

2-stage compressor, 80 gallon vertical tank. Plumbed to the wall through flex a line.
 
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Mine sets on small wood blocks with rubber on top and bottom. Not anchored down. Been working fine that way for over 20 years.

2-stage compressor, 80 gallon vertical tank. Plumbed to the wall through flex a line.

Yes, that's the type of installation I'm interested in. Does the vibration cause it to move across the floor at all? What size blocks and what type of rubber material are you talking about? Thanks Mel.
 
Mine is set up just like Mel's. Take a look here, the last pic shows the block under a leg. It's cut just bigger that the foot. I used a cut up old mouse pad under the wood. It doesn't move at all. Good luck and have fun!

Cheers,
 
Yes, that's the type of installation I'm interested in. Does the vibration cause it to move across the floor at all? What size blocks and what type of rubber material are you talking about? Thanks Mel.

The blocks are about 4" square, 1" thick. The rubber is pretty hard, about 1/4" thick. Compressor does not move. It did move once from Plano to Farmersville, but not on a daily basis.
 
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Mine's been bolted to the wooden pallet it came on for the last 8 years. Never moved an inch while running. Of course, being in the military I move every 3 years, so bolting it to the floor isn't a good option for me. Leaving it on the pallet has made it easy to move with a hand-truck.


PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
 
80 gallon

Three legs, bolted directly to the concrete floor with 1/2" bolts. I thought of rubber hockey pucks as an insulator, but went with simple.
The beauty of a larger capacity compressor is that it only turns on once or twice per session. Unless I'm using the disc grinder.
 
For those of you who have larger compressors, say 60 gal and up, here's a question. They all seem to have either 3 or 4 legs with mounting holes on each. I'm told by the sales guy that you don't want to leave it and operate it on the wood pallet it came on. Which means I either need to drill holes in my garage floor and bolt it down, or something else. What are other viable alternatives, if any, other than bolting it to the garage/shop floor? Photos would be helpful.

Mine (60 gal, Home Depot) is still bolted to the wooden pallet, been good for several years now. I think the pallet is fine as long as it doesn't deteriorate enough to allow the compressor to tip over.
 
Thanks to all for the many excellent replies. I'll probably go with either the hockey puck or the neopreme mounts over a block of wood.
 
Air compressor mount

My eighty gallon vertical tank sits on four short pieces of pressure treated 2x4 and is fastened to the concrete garage floor with four 1/2'' wedge expansion bolts. It is important not to put stress on the legs (which would be transmitted to the pressure vessel) so the fiber stop nuts are tightened just enough so that the washers underneath can just be moved by finger pressure. This has been entirely satisfactory and I would do it this way again.

Drilling in concrete is easy with a rotary hammer drill and the correct bit. Goes through it like butter. When you are done, drive the bolts further in below the surface and apply a bit of concrete patch. Invisible.

What I wouldn't do again is use black iron pipe to distribute air. It seems that rust particles collect in my pressure regulator and jam it open, making an awful sound. If I did it again I'd consider using copper pipe. I wouldn't use PVC pipe, though. A friend did and a few months later it let go with an almighty bang, sending a chunk of pipe across his hangar like a bullet.

I think it is important to fasten a big tank solidly to the floor. If the tank ever split open it might stay put instead of launching into orbit. That, plus earthquakes. The bolts are rated at over 4,000 lbs. pull out strength, each.
 
My compressor legs are screwed to 2x4 pieces cut to about 4 inches with some rubber glued underneath. I then used a water heater strap against the wall. That way it will not tip over or start moving around on me from the vibration. I also like that the 2x4's lift it up a couple inches allowing me to plumb a release valve underneath to rid of water build-up.
 
Mine is set up just like Mel's. Take a look here, the last pic shows the block under a leg. It's cut just bigger that the foot. I used a cut up old mouse pad under the wood. It doesn't move at all. Good luck and have fun!

Cheers,

Shawn
one of your photos shows an automatic purge valve on the bottom of your compressor. Your caption says you bought it at Harbor Freight. I called them and they said they don't have anything like that. Could you possibly have purchased it elsewhere, or did I just get a guy at Harbor Freight who doesn't know their product line?
 
Shawn
one of your photos shows an automatic purge valve on the bottom of your compressor. Your caption says you bought it at Harbor Freight. I called them and they said they don't have anything like that. Could you possibly have purchased it elsewhere, or did I just get a guy at Harbor Freight who doesn't know their product line?
Kind of a silly first post, but here's a pic I took today while I was at Harbor Freight. The item number is 68244. Funny it won't show up on their website though.
HarborFreight68244.jpg
 
Strange indeed that it doesn't show up on their website. I'm new to Harbor Freight, but we have one opening in our town this summer, so I will have to learn the good and the bad of this company. I guess the first lesson is don't trust the listings (or lack of) on their website.
 
Harbor Freight Purge Valve back on online

Hey guys,

I just checked Harbor Freight for the purge valve - searched on the part number. It's there again, I think about $9.00 and in stock.

Don
 
Those purge valves look like a good idea and are cheap enough that it made me want to try one, but the one I got for my house never did work like it should. It was always either getting clogged from rust bits, or it was leaking because the seal inside was getting blown out of place.

It may work for some, but it most certainly did not work for me.
 
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