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Old 08-05-2015, 05:43 PM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,755

Originally Posted by DanH View Post
I dunno about new baffle kits, but I have observed that the average builder does a sorry job of sealing both the inboard and outboard sides of each inlet.

Extending the ends of each glued-in upper ramp may provide a better surface for seal fabrication. Simply closing the ends of the ramps is probably a waste of time.

While on the subject, I think the cowl as supplied should be trimmed as seen below before installing the ramps. Too many get the ramps glued in too far rearward. The resulting pinch, in particular over #1, may reduce available static pressure. The preferred cross section is a smooth expansion.

I have thought about that geometry issue. On my -M1B installation the snorkel definitely forces the aluminum lower ramp to be in the trimmed configuration. Not true for carbureted. It could be anywhere.
I think you are right that if the inlets were trimmed very short, then the curved ramps could be far enough forward that the ramp meets the cowl ahead of the nose baffle. While I did trim mine, I did not trim them that short, so I had to build some side ramps for the baffle seal to sit on.
Since my CHTs are great, and well balanced, I don't think I have the ramps far enough back to be a choke point problem.

Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
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