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best practices = for dummies ( and me!)
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........so Pierre I'm sure has good reason for his modus operandii. that said, there are enough different types of rims, and combinations of inexperience, incompetence & inattention that somehow, somewhere, a guy seems to find a way. There are about 7000 of us RV'ers who are not mechanics, so need to be told not to pee on the electric fence! ( just because!) :) |
Brother Killed by Tire
My brother Terry was killed when helping a mechanic change a Jet Commander tire. Mechanic forgot to let the air out before removing bolts. No cage until AFTER the accident.:(
Be careful folks! |
OK, but before folks get too wound up about tire cages and the like - there is a HUGE difference in pressure between "big airplane" tires and the 30 psi tires/wheel we use on the RV's. We've got a lot of A&P's here who work on big iron, and the procedures they use are absolutely correct for that equipment. It might or might not pertain to RV tires.
Paul |
Where I used to work (heavy iron) we deflated prior to removing/shipping the old tires but the new tires from the shop were shipped and stored fully inflated.
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I just changed my tubes and tires for the first time (220 hrs) and the one bit that I had to redo pertained to the washer and nut that came with the air stop tubes. On the first tube/tire change I had some friends in the hangar and when they saw the washer and nut threaded loosely on the stem of the tube told me that they weren't needed, so I removed them. When everything was back together and I inflated the tire I noticed that the valve stem was cocked to one side. I did the other tire when people weren't there and had a close look at the washer and nut. I noticed that the washer had a convex and concave side and was bigger than the cut out in the wheel halves for the stem, while the nut was smaller and fit inside the cutout. I had a bit of an "aha" moment and realized that if I threaded the washer onto the stem with the concave side to the rubber and then put the nut on, the washer would protect the rubber from chaffing on the cutout edges on the wheel for the valve stem, almost like it was designed that way:D
I don't know if this is the correct way of doing it (no paperwork or how-to) but the valve stem is straight and there is no way the rubber can chaffe on the metal! One other aha moment I had when trying to balance the tires was to use the full depth of the wheel to "stack" the weights rather than stringing them out along the circumference. The weight is then concentrated where you need it and you need much less weight. I'm sure these observations will come as no surprise to many, but it was a learning experience for me:o |
Paul, Un unh. Don't even think that way. A little bitty tire can kill you. That's like saying it's okay to get stabbed with a little knife or shot with a small gun. Pierre has been riding with Lady Luck drivin' his Ol' 55. Jump me if you want, but if you don't deflate before you pull an axle nut you're begging for it. I once had about 1 PSI in a tire I was struggling with to keep the wrinkles out. I had the nuts on about 2 or 3 turns each (remember only 1 PSI on a 6-6). It stripped the threads and the hardware ricocheted off stuff 200 feet away. One of them caught my thumb on the way by. Loud 4 letter words buddy.
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?? 6? diameter wheel with 1 PSI pressure equals 28 lbs of force. Strips the threads on a ?-28 AN bolt?????? Seems odd to me. But hey I wasn?t there.
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