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I just finished my tanks on my -10. For the ribs, try inserting the first cleco at the aft ends from the inside, through the rib first, instead of from the outside, through the skin first. I think I might have used the second hole from the end to get a better angle to align with the hole in the skin. After you get the rest of the clecos in, then you can reverse the first cleco if you want.
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I think everyone has trouble with these ribs. I found they needed to be much more heavily fluted than you would think necessary.
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![]() For those not familiar with this issue, the fuel tank skins have a slightly different manufactured radius than the tank ribs. With the tight prepunched tolerances, that is all it takes to make this a pain. Look closely at the rib/skin clearance starting at the big arrow on the right and working toward the smaller arrow. This is standard across all fuel tanks-QB and SB. I compared mine to several completed -10s during tank construction, and they are all the same. Like the VS nose rib, this is one of the few quirks of the kit. |
If I go with the QB option, do I have to deal with this?
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It isn't that big of deal. The wing kit is probably the easiest of the kits to assemble. Yes, there are parts that will frustrate you a bit. But there is plenty of support available from the RV-10 community. If you want to shorten the time for your build and budget isn't a concern, then my all means go with the quick build. I did the normal build with no prior experience and managed to complete everything just fine. If you read the "gotcha" page on Tim Olson's site, then will know about 99% of all the problem areas. With advanced knowledge of the issue and the solution, they are all easy to manage. I was overwhelmed with some of the fiberglass work at the beginning, but it was a skill that you'll quickly master. It's just very tedious and takes time to do it right. |
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