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oblong holes
Don't think I'd use cherrymax rivets on a spar...imho...having been an a&p for 34 years i've seen these fastners loosen over time. We used them only as temporary repairs until permanent repairs could be made. Blind installations required cherrymax rivets or huck bolts . If I were building spars in your situation I'd use a piloted reamer to clear up the holes,especially on a spar. Start with a 1st over and see where you end up. If the new part is cheap just replace it and match ream,not drill the holes.
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Do you have a suggestion on where to source the NAS1242AD4 rivets? I can't find them on the Van's site or at Aircraft Spruce. :confused: Thanks. |
Try our friends at GAHCO
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oblong holes
Just for my 2 cents, I don't know how you used your reamer, but I have found that you get better results when pulling the reamer through the hole rather than trying to force it through like a drill bit.
Ed Booth |
Update...
Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions thus far.
I spoke with Van's... They aren't very keen on me using NAS1242AD rivets as a fix based on the number of NAS rivets that would be required, and the corresponding number of under-sized heads. They are suggesting either stepping up to AD5 rivets or replacing the parts. At this point I'm leaning towards at least giving it a go with the AD5 rivets, and seeing how things work out. I'd probably end up re-drilling and using AD5s in most of the 603pp to 609pp attach holes. If it all goes sideways, I can always order the new parts. Of course, I'll need to buy a 5/32" cup set as I don't already have one. I'm thinking a 5/32" cup set and the 12" back-riveting set from Cleaveland would let me set these rivets using my 3x rivet gun and c-frame with hopefully excellent results. Anybody have experience with using this setup to shoot AD5 rivets? |
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Definitely meant 5/32". |
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