The wife was less than enthused about bucking rivets, but she did a great job!


For fitting purposes I used Vans Va-138 fuel hose (gascolator to fuel pump) to go from the fuel pump to the transducer and from the transducer to the carb. TS Flightlines is fabbing up my hoses for me, as well as trimming 4 other hoses and adding a 90. I used Vans KB-090-T at the fuel pump, a 90 into the transducer, a 45 out of the transducer and a 90 on the carb. This routed the fuel line away from the exhaust very well. I didn't see anything in the red cube directions about 90 or 45 fittings, they wanted the wires up and the out line not to point down. The aluminum fittings are for fitting only, the steel ones are in the mail.

12 hours into electrical system architecture and taxes:confused:

Finally made my mind up and time to move on, aeroelectric diagram Z-13/8. It gives me a lot more options for backup power as i add an autopilot and other flight instruments later. I'm planning on installing the aft firewall stuff now and defer the dynamo and associated stuff till later.
Double checked dimensions for the screws/nutplates on the bottom rail and still have clearance for the switches .



Leveled the plane...the tiltmeter app was pretty handy for the next part.


I laid out the holes for attaching the panel and drilled an angle along the bottom rail. I had to coax the angle to a 100* in order for the top plate to be flat, leveled back and drilled the another angle to the subpanel. The whole assembly is twice as big as I need it so I can mount the GSU 73 in several places and cut down later.

I've got another idea for the GSU 73 mounting table, but I need to borrow a brake. I finally decided on a location for the hinged fuse tray.

My usual bending brake (bench top and clamps and various plates) wasnt giving acceptable results with the small bend on .063. My local heating and air (thank you Adamson Bros) has an 8 foot brake they let me use. I can't wait to get equipment like that!

Drilled to the lower panel

Drilled to the subpanel.

The tiltmeter app is pretty handy, but probably a little too accurate. I keep trying to readjust to the 10th degree.

I don't want to add support angles or cut the floor plate down until I actually have the GSU 73 in hand.

Subpanel cutout and reinforced. Wish I had the radios and didn't have to guess. (looks tweaked but it's square)

I made a couple of reinforcement angles to stiffen the bottom of the subpanel and GSU 73 floor.

Switches drilled and temporarily installed cables and a couple of switches to check the fit.

Not exactly sure what your plan is with the floor pan but I have had to work UNDER the panel of my -7A and would suggest cutting a large access hole in the bottom of that pan. That way you can remove the avionics from the front of the panel and then while UNDER the panel you can reach up to access whatever....wires, pitot tube, etc.

Perhaps you already had this plan though...

Thanks for the advice, I'm actually hoping to not work under the panel. I plan on having the G3X screens wired a little long so I can remove them from the front, pull them out and unhook the connectors. The face of the panel will also be removable on both sides of the radio stack. The radio stack will stay in place as well as the lower panel with all of the switches and push pull cables.
I made the floor plate huge to give me several options on mounting the GSU 73, Once I get the actual Garmin pieces in a couple of months I plan on trimming it to fit the final location. It's only like 5 inches square but with the connectors from the screens sticking back several inches it will be kinda tight!

Finalized my hinged fuse tray, the front latch is just a hinge.






Hinge on the subpanel.

Starter and Alternator wiring
 

I ran the starter wire with the alt wire on the right side of the engine, I still need to get some more adel clamps to finish them. I tried to leave a service loop at each connection.