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1st power up for electrical system and G3X!!! Everything I've hooked up seems to be working!!
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Nice job! Congrats!
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Wow! Some serious map on display.
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I made the fusable links for the shunt. Aeroelectric says 4 sizes smaller for a fusable link, the sensor wire is already 22 awg. Consensus on VAF said a 24 awg link is acceptable.
![]() I cleaned up the wiring in the center tunnel and installed the push-pull tube. ![]() Flap actuator installed and wired, I might install a flap position thingie so I can display my flaps on the G3X. ![]() I also configured my elevator trim tab on the G3X and confirmed my shunt wires were hooked up properly. |
Long day at work, I kinda wondered about the garage for a couple of hours. I was finally able to get something accomplished, finalized the headset jack location underneath the subpanel. I sat in the airplane with a headset for a while and this seemed to be the best place for entry/exit/inflight. The cords hang out of the way in use and I can set the headset on the floor next to the spar for entry and exit. I was going to make a hanger below the jacks bu the floor was out of the way and already done!
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My jacks are located in a similar spot. I use the clarity aloft style headset and I mount it on a knob similar to your cabin heat knob when not in use. Works well.
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jack location
Think you have the right spot. I went to a lot of trouble this winter to add headsets jacks behind the seats. Turns out the cables are more of a pain back there than up front as they get twisted up and tangled with cargo and are much harder to reach especially when in flight. I now use the clarity aloft in my front jacks and find the keeping the cables straight much easier when they are in front of you.
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Flap Position Sensor
Andy, here is how I mounted my flap sensor. It is the Ray Allen unit. I could not visualize the geometry so I made a dimension sketch to keep the line of action of the slider near as possible. The mount is a fabricated 30-60 triangle shape and located so the slide points to the pivot connection. The pivot needs to be over the top of the weld, so I fabbed a block from a kitchen cutting board by drilling a hole with a hole saw. The other pivot is made from hardware angle, and small bolts from the RC model shop. I drilled several holes to allow adjustment so it would not reach the limit and adjusted the RC model link to the center. I can provide some more detail if you are interested.
I thought about making these to sell, but with the time involved, decided most would just make their own anyway. ![]() |
Thanks for the info guys!
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Safetied the prop bolts, I was putting this off because I know I'm going to need a heavier crush plate to help with an aft cg. Need to finish and weigh it first I suppose.
![]() I soldered the wires to the headset/mike jacks. I used the aeroelectric/Garmin/Stein/Mentor to figure out the wiring for these. I found these nifty angled "Kelly clamps" at Air Parts in KC for $3.50, I've got a straight pair as well and love them for adel clamps among other things. ![]() ![]() I only drilled the holes in the jack brackets to 3/8 but I had to enlarge it to 7/16 so the shoulder on the isolating washer would fit. An plastic/fabric isolating washer on each side of the jack is used to insulate the jack from grounding on the airframe (I think). ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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