Bigger is Better
 

I made my DRDT-2 table so that I could use it for other purposes. I found that I can do the skins with no problems with NO help. I would make one change though. I would leave a 2 inch lip all the way around except not on the back. I have it flipped down right now with the horizontal laying on some foam. Hope these pics help.

Bruce Pauley
#72742 RV 7A
Rowlett Tx
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....ley&project=84

Thanks Bruce, that's a nice looking setup... like the idea of putting the tables on wheels.
Question - how is the DRDT2 supported between the two tables? Did you drill holes in the sides of teh DRDT2 and bolt it to the sides of the tables?

Phil,

I put (2) 7" I think carriage bolts through the 2 2x8's and it acts like
a vise. Put some washers on the other end with wing nuts and there
you have it. You can look at my web site and I think you can figure
it out. It sure is handy to turn the DRDT-2 upside down and use the
table for other things.

Bruce Pauley
#72742 RV 7A
177WD res
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....ley&project=84

I built a platform per the plans that came with the DRDT-2.

When I have sheets to dimple, I put the DRDT-2 on one of my EAA Chapter 1000 work tables, clamp it down at the rear edge, and put the carpet-covered platform in place.

With this setup, I have been able to easily dimple all of the wing skins as well as empenage and control surface skins with no helpers needed. The sliding feature of the platform's design makes it perfect for the job.

When I'm not dimpling, the workbench is freed up for other uses by storing the DRDT-2 and platform elsewhere. It just doesn't make sense to dedicate a table to dimpling, considering the small percentage of build time that you spend doing it.

I wouldn't change a thing if I had it all to do over again.

Ive found there is no need to clamp the dimpler down at all- there is plenty of weight to keep the tool in place while dimpling. FWIW, It actually helps to be able to move the frame around on your workbench- makes alignment on outside edge rivets much easier when you can also move the support tables and frame around.

I bought the head and made my own frame out of twin thick-walled 1x2 rectangular steel tubes left over from an old car project (subframe connectors). Its turned out lighter and has a larger coverage (longer and deeper), with the same outside dimensions. I made several modifications that (I believe) have improved the operation at the working end. The drdt is a great tool, significantly better than the hammer dimplers.