![]() |
Check those screws on c/b rudders
My 6 has a RV-8 tail, and during the condition inspection today, we came across this:
![]() The two screws are loose, won?t tighten nor will they come out. My A&P wrote Van?s which will send him rudder drawings. The front screw has another little hole beside it; not sure if it has a purpose or somebody did a screw up. Had any of these screws come down another few thousands on an inch, it could have easily caught on the vertical stabilizer. This has got bad news written all over it. Looks like I?ll have to drill out some rivets to get to it. I?ll be making this a part of my pre-flight inspections from here on out. Anyone else experience this? |
One idea to get to the bolts on the other side of the weight is to cut a hole through the end of the fiberglass rudder tip. If you use one of those vibrating cutters, it goes real fast. I know. The tip is easy to repair. You would have to decide if it is easier drill out the rivets or go through the end of the rudder tip.
|
Those bolts are held with locknuts and since there is no relative movement in parts, I would imagine a mistake during building. One possibility is that the weight was not fully set in its place and was held up by the rivets on the side which you would typically need to shave a bit off the weight to get it to fit nicely. This is specially that both bolts are lose.
You could drill a hole on top of the wing tip for the size of a 3/8 socket and just tighten it. Then glass over the tip and repaint, shouldn?t be that difficult but a very good catch. Good luck. |
I like these suggestions, beats drilling out a bunch of rivets. Normally, when I do a pre-flight the rudder is straight with the VS, so this is hidden fairly good. Just caught this, because the rudder was turned, so got a good look at the screws. Kind of scary to think what one of those screws could have done to ruin my day.
|
Yup... drill a hole from the top, use a nut driver so you don't loose a socket. Phillips on the bottom side and lock her down. You can re-glass, cap or plug the holes it the top. :)
|
everyone....add to pre-flight checklist!
Quote:
Part of most walk-arounds is to; remove all control locks, move the control surfaces to their full travel, look at all gaps and hinges, listen for chafing, and of course, verify all weights, cables, pushrods, hinges, fasteners are secure and clear. THe downside of an -A model is that it's not easy to grab the rudder tip and check for security, but if you want to be thorough, go grab the ladder from the Cessna beside you, and get up and look things over. Don't be surprised if the top of the VS is full of bird ****! |
When I install weights, I use plenty of proseal to lock everything in place.
The lead is soft and as someone eluded to above will take a set over time, if the bolts rotate but don't appear "loose" it may be ok, if unsure, then get to the nut and snug em down. |
Good catch - I'll check mine on the next walk around. Thankfully tip is screwed on.
Jim Sharkey RV-6 (-8 Rudder) Quote:
|
Definitely, think I?m going to cut a circular hole in the fiberglass in the flat end portion that will generally be hidden. And now that I know they have nuts on the other end, I?ll quit calling it screws. Just looked like that to me at first.
Walt, that proseal sounds like a good idea. I unlocked my tailwheel to where I could easily move the rudder back and forth swiftly, and don't hear anything rattling inside. Once I get a good look inside, if I can get around the small opening, once I have tightened the bolts, I might use some of that or possibly JB Weld to help lock things down a bit. |
Wrongway to cut the hole
You need to cut a circular hole, big enought for a socket or nut driver, directly and vertically above the machine screw. I think a unibit might work (it will dull the bit) but should give you the cleanest hole.
Good luck. Terry, CFI RV9A N323TP |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:47 AM. |