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Just thinking out loud...
I've been thinking about the silicone hoses most often seen in turbo plumbing on cars. The stuff comes in all kinds of sizes (and colors)... Anybody ever used them as intake tube couplers on the Lycomings? In theory, they should remain pliable longer than the rubber based stock stuff.
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Vlad.....you confirm my thoughts.
A good reason to do a GAMI lean test high and low. It shows up the leaks. ;) Did you get some of the Superior gaskets? |
Hate to bump a super-old thread, but figured this was the right place to get the information listed.
Was wondering if anyone could provide any guidance in replacing these intake gaskets and couplers... Is it as simple as: 1. Remove flange bolts & intake coupler 2. Clean gasket surfaces, replace coupler 3. Bolt back up? Any torque values for the tube-flange-to-head fasteners? Thanks! |
My guidance:
Replace that mess with SDS Aero O-ring seal intake flanges. Ross will hook you up!
http://sdsefi.com/sdsaero.htm |
Quote:
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Intake torque
Pretty sure it?s 100? lbs. info is for 0-320.
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Found it!
For future reference: O-320 Intake flange nut torque is 96in-lb (basically 100) per Lycoming manual. Any other tricks/tips to get these off/on? I don't need any special tools? Just remove nuts, replace gasket, bolt back on? Thanks! |
The intakes don't have nuts, they have bolts. The exhaust has nuts (on studs).
Remove bolts, scrape old gasket junk off, ensure tube retainers are not bowed, Install new gaskets, ensure tube is centered in retainer, tighten to spec. Next step - buy the SDS intake kit so it's on hand when you need to replace the next cracked intake gasket (and it WILL happen). |
The red Rubber intake connectors are available through Continental
Quote:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=169487 The close proximity of your exhaust pipes to those rubber connectors sure isn't doing them any favor. Is there any room to possibly install a heat shield between those parts? Charlie |
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