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-   -   Tip: Proseal ...The fact and the fiction (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=7602)

rmartingt 09-03-2013 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverEagle2 (Post 803994)
340 total will take care of both RV-7 tanks!

I'll be ok then... only building one tank (and wing) at a time due to space constraints. Thanks!

wjb 09-04-2013 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N427EF (Post 64214)
The only thing I don't like about proseal is that it resembles my work as a pastry chef.
I just finished the third leakfree tank.
I use parchment paper to make a nice little tube,wrap some tape around it and it is ready to go.Cut the tip as much or as little as you want to get a very small amount in the right place.Best of all when your done with it throw it away.
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/4938/tankseal1ge6.jpg
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/9384/tankseal2gi1.jpg


Just like my sister who rocks at cake decorating ... the parchment cone is an awesome idea. Are proseal "roses" and other flowers considered acceptable practice?

David Paule 09-05-2013 07:59 AM

Never done any cake decorating.... How do you use that thing? Squeeze from the top?

Dave

esco 09-05-2013 08:20 AM

parchment paper application
 
Roll a square of parchment paper into a cone with a tight apex and a wider (3-4") top; a paper clip can hold this shape while loading it with icing/proseal. I'll leave it to an expert to drill, deburr, and cleco paper... Allow room at the top to seal the cone.

Remove paper clip/cleco, fold top of the cone over the contents, and keep folding down, pushing the contents toward the apex. Think of rolling a tube of toothpaste from the closed end toward the opening.

If required, snip off the apex until it's large enough to dispense the required bead.

Rosettes, as well as decorative beads of proseal, can be made by cutting the apex into a scalloped edge before dispensing.

YMMV.

kcpilot81 10-08-2013 10:13 AM

RV-10 J Channel
 
I am preparing to start prosealing my tanks and plan to use the method outlined by Rick in this thread, but a difference between the tanks in the -6 or -8 and the -10 is the addition of a J-channel in the tanks for added stability. This appears to pose an additional challenge of putting a filet on the J-channel and attempting to slide it into location without making a huge proseal mess. Has anyone else with a -10 tried this method? What were your results? Any tips? Thanks.

todehnal 11-02-2013 07:18 PM

Great Thread But?
 
I have half a quart of proseal left, that has been kept in the refrigerator and is almost 3 year old now. It looks good. Any thought about using it, or do I need a new batch to a small tank job?

Bevan 11-02-2013 09:31 PM

I have the same question. I have half a can of 5 year old and 8 year old flamemaster (proseal). The 8 year is a little thicker and would be harder to mix up. Both have been in the shop fridge for years and occasionally used lately. I take it out of the fridge the day before to allow it to come up to room temp and soften. So far I have only used this "old stuff" as a non critical adhesive and I kept the leftovers to see how well it cures. Turns out it cures just like I remember it did when it was new. SO...other than being a little stiffer to mix up, why the relatively short expiry date on the can? Can this 5 year old stuff be used to seal the inboard tank covers, or do I need to order another can? If it cures, it cures. Or is there something I'm missing here? Remember is has been in the fridge all this time.

Bevan

todehnal 11-03-2013 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bevan (Post 822415)
I have the same question. I have half a can of 5 year old and 8 year old flamemaster (proseal). The 8 year is a little thicker and would be harder to mix up. Both have been in the shop fridge for years and occasionally used lately. I take it out of the fridge the day before to allow it to come up to room temp and soften. So far I have only used this "old stuff" as a non critical adhesive and I kept the leftovers to see how well it cures. Turns out it cures just like I remember it did when it was new. SO...other than being a little stiffer to mix up, why the relatively short expiry date on the can? Can this 5 year old stuff be used to seal the inboard tank covers, or do I need to order another can? If it cures, it cures. Or is there something I'm missing here? Remember is has been in the fridge all this time.

Bevan

I would think that you could thin it with a little MEK, but I have no experience. Surely the MEK would evaporate. It is just being used as a vehicle to get the proseal mixed well, and in place. Hope some of the gurus pipe in here!!

Tom

todehnal 11-03-2013 05:08 PM

Has anyone tried thinning proseal??

chaskuss 11-03-2013 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by todehnal (Post 822390)
I have half a quart of Proseal left, that has been kept in the refrigerator and is almost 3 year old now. It looks good. Any thought about using it, or do I need a new batch to a small tank job?

Why not mix up a very small amount and let it cure, as a test? If it cures OK, it's probably OK to use. It's safest to use fresh ProSeal, but I've used out of date stuff that was kept in the refrigerator with good results. Your mileage may vary.

Regarding thinning ProSeal, many on this list report good results using MEK. I've used it myself. However, the "proper" thinner is Toluene [aka Toluol]. I generally use "wash grade" Lacquer thinner, as it's about 92% to 95% Toluene. Check the ingredients on any can of lacquer thinner, as the components can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Wash grade lacquer thinner is generally cheaper and is really intended for cleaning, not painting. I buy it at the local auto paint supply store.
Toluene is what the manufacturer uses.
Charlie


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