built your own?
 

how many have built their own lyclone?

- Piston-ring compressor.
- Ring filing tool (for setting ring end-gaps).
- Cylinder-base-nut wrench of appropriate size/type.
- A valve-spring compression tool makes installing the valve-spring keepers a whole lot easier, but it's possible to do without.
- A wooden stand to put the jugs over while you install the valves & springs.
- Some sort of plastic cover to bolt over the cylinder holes in the cases, that will keep **** out of the cases and also support the rods.
- Feeler gauge set.
- All the required "consumables"; i.e. assembly lube, DC4, RTV, silk thread, anti-seize, etc.
- Last thing I can think of, and the most important... an up-to-date Lycoming Direct-Drive Engine Overhaul Manual and all the Lycoming Service Instructions, Service Bulletins, and AD's for the engine type you're building.

I agree with all of the items Ken described.
I built up the ECI clone (Titan) and my thoughts are as follows:
The engine components are provided by ECI, but there are a lot of parts that need to be gathered up or provided by the dealer you purchase the kit through, such as hardware...nuts, bolts, washers, etc. Most of this can be gotten locally, since it is grade 8 hardware, but it is nice to get their hardware kit. Other than that, there were only a few items that were missing or needed and ECI was good about providing them. The dealer was also very easy to work with and they also provided the mags, fuel injection system, etc.
All of the consumables are more expensive than you think and you have to get a lot more than you need. I used LPM's recommendation for sealing the parting halves of the crank case (silk thread w/ permatex ?? on one side and Locktite ?? on the other side) and I did have to shop around to find it.
If you have a local AP or IA around to ask for advice, do it. Also, try to get someone to do a final inspection as you are closing things up....just in case.
Basic tools include good torque wrenches...one to do inch pounds for the smaller bolts and a larger one for the cylinder nuts.
Basic set of wrenches, screw drivers, etc.
Safety wire pliers, a buzz box for timing the mags.
You will need to paint the engine parts, so you need painting equipment.
An engine stand is helpful, but you could also build a wooden table, use 3/4" plywood for the top and 2x4 legs, doubled up, about 30" or so high. Don't build it too high. Cut a center hole, and some flange bolt holes around it, to bolt the crank to. This works well...I have done this on 2 or 3 engines. I made it 2' by 4', so it provides for some working space to hold tools, etc.
Plug gapping tools, feeler gauges, ring compressor, etc. that Ken listed are also necessary.
The overhaul manual is pretty basic, but does have all of the information you need, just make sure you have all of the updates. ECI does not provide a manual, they say to use the Lycoming OH manual. Support from the dealer will be available. Use them.
Putting these things together is not rocket science and if you take your time you should not have a problem.

Cost savings?
 

Between tools and consumables, is there any net cost savings over just buying it whole? I love the idea of assembling my own just for the experience, but it's hard to justify if it ends up costing more.

I used AERO inc, in Granite City, IL. They are listed in ECI's web site.

AERO's number is 800 362-3044 (Ext 228 for Jesse, who does the new engine kits.)

I found the cost of building was substantially less than having them do it, even after buying all the stuff you need. Plus, you then have left overs!

Leftovers?
 

I found the cost of building was substantially less than having them do it, even after buying all the stuff you need. Plus, you then have left overs!

I wouldn't think "leftovers" are a good thing after building an engine - especially strange and important looking leftovers!
What exactly do you mean by leftovers?

Also- Cost substantially less than what, buying the same thing from Van's?

I think he meant the tools and the expendables.

If the cylinders are already setup like mine were when I built it (lyc core that was checked, yellow tagged, etc) the only things I had to use were basic socket set, torque wrenches, safety wire pliers, etc....

Only special tools were cylinder wrenches. Ring compressor is nice, but not required. Most of the cheapy ones from Pep Boys or whatever will only go to 5" bore and lyc's are 5.125". It is a mild pain, but you can do them by hand.

You need silk thread, the special $20 loctite (515 maybe, can't remember?) and a lycoming overhaul manual for torque orders and specs.

Setting timing and the like depends on what ignition you have.

You mileage may vary but I think people make WAY to big a deal out of building these.

Scott
#90598 - N598SD Flying - 21.9 hrs

For those of you who have built from a kit, what was your total cost then? I'd love to build the engine (especially since I have an A&P brother-in-law). If it's a lot cheaper than a new clone, how much cheaper? What about the issue of warranty?

Warranty
 

If you decide to assemble your own engine, the only warranty you're going to get is the parts warranty which in all but a few special instances, is one year FROM DATE OF SALE. Since you are supplying the labor, how are you going to warranty yourself? There is an answer, think about it...