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Thank you Sir, I called the Metro store they said that part number was no longer available?
I also spoke with SW Aerospace in Tampa, he told me that Product was not designed for corrosion protection, only for prep for an actual corrosion primer... Oh my Primer is tough |
P60G2
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If you want to use it, just buy a gallon and two gallons of catalyst. Store doesn't need a reason. They never asked me. For what it's worth, the stuff is super easy to spray, very light and won't come off (provided surface is properly prepped). |
Not wanting to extend the primer wars but I am currently priming all internal parts with SW P60G2. When it comes to fuselage skins is anyone priming the outside of the skin where there are lap joints? This area would not be able to get primed and painted with the rest of the airframe.
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I've seen it done like that before. Builders have masked off exterior surfaced of skin that get covered by a lap joint (ie. L/R wing skin joint, fwd and rear aileron skins at the spar, upper and lower flap skin)
I didn't do it, probably wont. |
SW
"...he told me that Product was not designed for corrosion protection, only for prep for an actual corrosion primer..."
I actually spoke with a SW tech, at length, about this before I decided to prime. It is true that the P60G2 is designed to have a top coat of something else...and that top coat is also supposed to be applied within a certain time after P60G2 application, according to the SW tech. That said, I believe the mothership actually has a test piece that was sprayed with P60G2 many years ago, and is holding up fine... |
Priming
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Dave |
Talked to SW Aerospace for advice
I asked my SW Aerospace rep about the recommended P60G2 primer and was told it will do nothing for corrosion resistance. They recommended and acid wash coat then a primer. They were really adamant about putting on too thick. They recommend only applying enough to create a solid film, no more than that. Below are not noted from the conversation:
DO NOT HI BUILD, only enough to create solid fill for both products HVLP Gun is good to use Use plastic containers to mix Temperature at application time, ambient and surface is important 1. Scuff with Red Scotch Brite or 320-400 sandpaper 2. Clean / prep with MEK soaked Red Scotch Brite 3. Final clean with MEK wetted rag 4. Acid Wash with 484646 Wash Primer a. Only enough build to create solid film (not big build) 5. Wait 1 hour 6. Prime with 486707 primer a. Again, only to solid film, not thick (too thick can crack) All prep and cleaning of surfaces and equipment done with MEK or SW 110308 (use MEK) See PDS for proper reducer I assume no scuff coat between acid wash and primer Both can be brushed or rolled in a pinch, just have to be careful not to get too thick |
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