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I have been applying primer with a sponge brush and it seems quick, easy and inexpensive. I mix it thin so if flows out well and doesn't leave brush marks. Dupont Variprime seems to work well for me. It is a metal etch primer, and has zinc chromate in it. I still scotch bright and clean with a good detergent. But even if the parts are not super clean, and have a oily fingerprint or two on them, the metal etch primer cuts right through and gives me good adhesion. I like the idea of having a good primed surface where parts are touching.
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Interesting idea, Boomer. How did you figure out how much to thin it for sponge brush application?
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I am able to use the same sponge brush and the same small plastic mixing cup repeatedly. I open the Dupont Variprime can and stir with large wooden popsickle stick, then transfer the primer by dipping the stir stick and scrapping on the sides of the mixing cup until I get the amount I think I will need. It is often a very small amount for small parts. When I transfer by stir stick, and not pouring, I avoid contaminating the rim of the can with primer so the lid will go back on cleanly. Then I poor activating agent in, generally about twice the amount of primer by volume, and stir with same transfer stir stick. You can sort of tell if the mixing ratio is correct by the way it flows off the sponge brush and not leave any brush marks. If has been sitting awhile and dried/thickened a bit, I will often splash a little more activator in the mixing cup to thin it out again. I am a cheap skate by nature and the waste product. After I finish priming my parts, I splash some lacquer thinner in the mixing cup, swish around with my sponge brush to clean both the brush and cup. I will sometimes use a heat gun to speed drying so I can flip my parts more quickly. I can prime parts and be ready to rivet in about 15 minutes. Yes, I am not following the mixing instructions on the can, but I don't think this stuff catalyzes in the same way that epoxy paint does, and mixing thin doesn't seem to degrade durability.
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Sam, your method seems like a good compromise between rattle can and HVLP spray of a two-part epoxy primer. I'm intrigued. How long have you been using this method? I'm really asking how old are the oldest parts on which you've used this technique and do they still look the same as the ones you've done most recently?
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Priming rivets
Quick question guys. Since most of the internal priming work needs to be done prior to assembly, once the parts are finally riveted together, the rivets themselves miss out on getting any primer. My question is, do I need to go back after assembly and re-spray over all the bare rivets? Not sure now corrosion proof rivets are.
Thanks, Casey |
Rivets
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Thanks Larry, good to know!
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Just wanted to share something I read in the plans on primers. Looks like Vans actually has a short list of some specific primers that they recommend are superior (Sherwin P60G2 is one of these).
Brand / Product DITZLER - DP-40/50 EPOXY PRIMER DUPONT- VERI-PRIME (PRIMER #615 and CONVERTER #616S) MARHYDE - Self-etching primer, available in a spray can as well as quarts PRATT & LAMBERT - Vinyl Zinc Chromate, EX-ER-7 and T-ER-4 Reducer TEMPO - Chromate in a spray can SHERWIN WILLIAMS - WASH PRIMER #P60G2 and Catalyst Reducer #R7K44 |
where are you guys/gals buying your wash primer
Sherwin-Williams P60G2 Semi-Transparent Green Industrial Wash Primer ?? Skygeek has been back ordered, local sherwin guys ( auto) says not available thru him, only tried them due to aluminum bodies today in automotive |
P60G2
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Try these. FORT MYERS-METRO COMMERCIAL #2366 12990 METRO PKWY STE A FT MYERS, FL, 33966-1403 (239) 225-0820 FT MYERS-ALICO COMMERCIAL #2445 17131 ALICO CENTER RD STE 1 FT MYERS, FL, 33912-6019 (239) 415-4025 |
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