This Lycoming Service Instruction provides advice:

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/supp...dfs/SI1435.pdf

I agree, the SS line is much neater, that's what I have on mine, but ensure you use steel fittings on the engine
(replacing aluminium fittings with steel ones was covered by an old Lycoming SB).

Thanks, all.

I've seen the Lycoming service instruction, have it printed and lying on my workbench, in fact. But it's quite vague about the hose installation. As for my Superior-supplied hose, it's Aeroquip, with brown integral firesleeve. Attempting to route this one is bad enough.

I did some searching and found Steve Sampson's blog. He routed his over the top as I proposed in my last post:
http://gikonfwf.blogspot.com/2007/12...-oil-line.html

Since the hose I have is Lycoming-approved and the supplied block & governor fitting are steel, I'm not too keen on forking out for the oh-so-expensive stainless steel part. I've seen the routing of the stainless tube, as my hangar partner has one on his airplane (not an RV, but I've forgiven him). I'm leaning towards Steve's solution, which can be seen in the top photo in the link above.

Lar, the other end is visible in the third and fourth picture here if you are still interested.

I only have about 80 hours on it but it has worked just fine for me. I would do it again that way just to keep it out of the crowded area under the engine.

I'm still very interested, thanks for posting the link Steve. Running the line... er, hose... will be one of the first orders of business when I get the baffling completed (still naively hoping for this time next week).

I have this setup on an older engine where the front is clamped with an adel where this doc shows a metal bar. The short metal bar is apparently used on newer systems with shorter alternators.
Does anyone have a part number for that clamping bar? My docs are too old or simply show a pic with no part numbers.

It's a...
 

...Lycoming 75165 "CLIP, prop gov oil line support" - at a pricey $7...

http://www.aeroinstock.com/products/...ail/index.html

Another option would be to simply make the SS tube yourself. The materials cost is about $20.00. I've done this before and it is not hard at all. If you have an example to go by (your hangar partner's), all the better.

Always a spoiler at the party ;) That would be far too rational.

Seriously, I guess I should look into that. Biggest issue will be finding a flaring tool for the 3/8" st. steel, though there are a few well-equipped hangars around me I can turn to with a woeful look.

The same tools you use for the 3/8 fuel lines will work just fine.

I have a Parker Rolo-Flair. The information sheet that came with the thing claims it's for aluminum & copper tubing only, which is why I wrote the comment about finding a tool. Have you used a Rolo-Flair to flare 3/8" stainless? I'm not averse to trying, but I'd rather not thrash the thing either.