Sorry, it's a little big, but I love this advice!

Drilling Tips
 

I am sure that tips like this one have been mentioned before. I have found that when drilling holes, I really like the final size to be done with a reamer. I got this advice from Noel Simmons about the rivet holes but I think it is doubly important to have clean holes when it comes to bolting parts on like the tail feathers. There are several places where the holes will be drilled though some fairly thick material, as Noel explained the drill bit has a tendency to leave a spiral cut mark on the sides of the hole as it goes through.

Using a reamer does a couple of things: 1. It cleans up the hole and makes for a nice finish fit for the bolts and 2. If the hole is a pickup hole, in other words drilling into another hole that was scribed and then back drilled, it will help alignment of the assembly.

There is no need to buy a complete set of reamers, the most common ones that I have used so far are the #40, #30 (for rivet holes) and 3/16" for -3 AN bolts, 1/4" for -4 AN bolts and 5/16" for -5 AN bolts. I would also have a set of numbered and fractional drill bits handy, it has worked for me to drill the holes a couple of sizes under the final size and then final ream, this also helps if the hole was drilled slightly crooked, it leaves a little material for the reamer to center itself.

I also use Boelube for cutter lubrication, I have had really good luck with the 4 oz jar of this stuff, its a little spendy but it really does make the cutters last longer.

Another thing, Starrett.com has some really nice reference information about drilling and tapping and you can order the reference cards from them for free. I order some for my A&P students every year and it's really invaluable materials to have in your toolbox.

Rivet hole alignment tool.
 

When you break your 6 inch clearance drill bits, Use the un fluted shank, put a dowel handle on one end and a smooth taper on the other and they make the best rivet hole alignment tool because they are the right size for the hole.

Am finding this out the hard way...3 years away from working on the project during a move results in a lot of time spent going back and forth from the fuselage to the manual to the bench full of parts to the plans and back again.

AAAARRRGH! Hopefully it won't be much longer before I am once again oriented and cutting metal.

Changing bits
 

If you are going to change drill bits in your souix with your hand, where safety goggles or do it really slow. I slung the drill bits out a few times at lightning speed and would easily put your eye out;)

Tip #1001:

Polish wheels are abbrasive on the skin. Very abbrasive:(

There's no point getting good sound for your shop since you can't hear it over the air compressor anyway.

Dave

The sagest advice ever:

"Make haste slowly."

Pretty much every mistake I've made was because I was working too quickly, moving too quickly, or failing to think about what I was about to do/move/work on. (Applies to just about everything, including my regular job :) ).

Finger clamps
 

Don't use your fingers as clamps. Getting
bits of metal out of deep tissue takes a long time for
your body to eject. Oh and a sharper bit I think
may do less damage!

If your construction manual or builder's log does not have any of the following: blood, oil, grease, metal shavings, ink, beer, tears, sweat, or such marks and/or stains within its pages, you are most likely doing something wrong, and probably not building an airplane. Recheck/redo your work accordingly.