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Snow is off and on. Cold though! Small window for flying yesterday! Woo hoo! Quote:
One thought though...what you said about the lower force on the ailerons (or side stick pressure used) makes sense...but if your roll servo or aileron locked up, you might have to use a pretty good amount of force to break it loose. Maybe that's an unlikely scenario, and is different from "putting your feet on the panel and pulling", but perhaps the reinforcement of the hole on the side couldn't hurt either...if it's ultimate safety we're after. Not challenging your assumptions...I'm not an M.E.! :) Quote:
Running a wire down the back or front of the stick wouldn't bother me if I was re-doing this, and the handlebar tape would make a nice cover too. FWIW to consider, my boots actually come up to the bottom of the stick grip anyway, so such an external install might just be covered up anyway. Just thoughts! Cheers, Bob |
You could easily put a hold in the stick and do it in such a way as to not reduce the strenght at all.
Take the hole you have drilled in the 4130 control stick, take another piece of 4130 steel tubing the same diameter as the stick and fishmouth cut the small piece of tube. Use AC43-13 1B to see how it is done and for pictures. Now weld the piece over the hole that you have drilled to where the smaller piece is 90 degrees to the control stick with the fishmouth cut fitting over the hole you have cut in the control stick. Now file and sand down the 4130 tube piece to create a 1/8 lip or the desired height you want of the lip. This is somewhat along the lines of the washer idea except its the FAA way. And we all know that the FAA way is the ONLY way.. :D This is the same type of welding tech used to build airplanes so I think it would be ok. Just my two cents. If you really want to know if it will hold up, I'm sure someone would test it and see. |
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Pat |
I ran my wires down the tube and out the bottom (carefully), so no hole at all. I only have a PTT pair and obviously a larger set of wires might not do so well. Anyone see a potential issue with just having the wires out the bottom?
greg |
Another concept to strengthen tube
Hi all,
Another concept to strengthen tube. Buy some larger diameter 4130 tube from spruce, cut a 2" long piece, slide it down your control stick and drill a hole where you want the wires (telescoping tube). For example, if I wanted to strengthen my 1" OD RV-8 front stick around the hole I drilled, I could but some of the following: 1 1/8 OD .058 Wall Part No: 03-07100 $3.70/ft It has a 1.009 inch inside diameter. Slide a 2" piece down your tube, drill the hole and call it a day. You could weld it on, bond it on, or even have a couple of screws. Take a closer look at the RV-8 rear stick and you'll see what I mean. Cheers Robert Grigson |
Since the -8 and side-by-side models have very different sticks, I'd be interested in seeing what the FEA looks like on the side-by-side sticks with the offset pivot points. Seems like the analysis may be applicable to the centerline models with the pivot through the stick.
Jim |
Hole location - worst vs. best case
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I'd be interested to see similar analyses with a hole a few inches higher and on the side. |
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I went out the bottom
I have the thick wire bundle for the infinity grip and I went out the bottom. It does rub on the belly skin but there is not much pressure on the wire, the bundle has a thick outer sheath and if I see wear I will use spiral wrap to reinforce it,
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redundancy
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In case of joystick failure. I'll just leave the wireless passenger stick, firmly bolted in................no matter how fat the passenger is! :D L.Adamson --- RV6A |
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