I decided to buy this GSM switch from Amazon to allow me to remotely turn on my engine heater. The directions are pretty weak and I'm not real strong with electrical things. I was wondering if one of you guys could back me up on the wiring of this switch?

I bought the AC version vice the D.C. Version, so it take 115V AC power in. I plan to use the male end of an old orange 16 ga extension cord for power in.
1. Do I just attach the white and black wires to spots 1 & 2?
2. What do I do with the green wire (ground)?

For the output, I'm using the female end off of relay #1. The same questions apply here. White and black off of 6 & 8? What do I do with green?

Here's a link to the manual for the 12VDC version. There is no manual for the AC version: http://tinyurl.com/z3tds57

Manufacturer's website: http://tinyurl.com/js6jag5





Thanks,
Chuck

Wireless remote from a router
 

My neighbor already has Internet and a wireless router in his hangar so he spent $44.00 for his smartphone compatible remote switch. Here is the link:http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7C029/

Caveat Emptor
 

I'm no electrician, but have done my fair share of home wiring while setting up my shop. The following comes with no guarantees, or warranties.

Yes. Some people think it matters which you connect where, and for DC this is absolutely true. For AC however, I have never understood the reasoning. I can't see in the documentation which pin (1 or 2) connects to the relays. I will assume that one of the pins connects to the common (C) of the relays and the other to the NO and NC terminals. Just try and keep it consistent throughout.


I would connect the green wires from the input and the output together. Inside the box, if there's room.

This looks correct. Again, if you can verify the connections between the common and power pins, try and keep them consistent from input to output.

Good luck!

I'd hire an electrician
 

From the sketch, it looks like pins 1 & 2 provide power only to the components on the circuit board, not to the relay contacts.

Each relay switches common (C) to one of the other 2 associated contacts (NO or NC) depending on the command you send. If you connect your AC wires to pins 6 & 8 and send the command to connect them, the relay will connect the black wire to the white wire. Briefly. I would hire an electrician for peace of mind.

(Also, T-Mobile and its re-sellers will be your only choice for a SIM card. AT&T is turning off all its GSM service at the end of the month.)

Bo

I Stand Corrected
 

Excellent observation Bo. I would agree with your assessment.

Schematic
 

Forgive the crude schematic. I don't have my usual schematic tools here at the office. I think what you want is something like below. The "Z" is your AC load (heater, etc.).

I have an older AC version of the same unit that I wired up. The following assumes that your model is the same wiring (the manual link seems to indicate it is). There is no internal connection between the 1 & 2 terminals and either of the relays, the 1 & 2 terminals are simply to power the board's electronics. The relays are separate from the internal electronics.

Needless to say, if you're uncomfortable working with household power, don't try this at home.

Your incoming and outgoing power cords should all have three wires:
Green: ground
White: neutral
Black: hot

Connect all of the greens together; they don't need a connection to any of the terminals.

Put a white pigtail on terminal 1, connect this and all the IN/OUT whites together.

Put black pigtails on 2, 3, and 6, and connect all three to the INCOMING black.

Connect one OUTGOING black to 8; this is your first switched circuit.

Connect one OUTGOING black to 4; this is your second switched circuit.

No connections to 5 or 7.

Here's a sketch of my connections (click for bigger):

Thanks for the help guys. Here is another diagram from the 12VDC manual:


I will have an electrician look at it, but I also want to learn as I go.

I finally found this project. I guess that I didn't realize that terminals 1&2 are just to power the device, not provide power to the heater.

JWyatt,
I sincerely appreciate your diagram. That helps a lot. One question... Yours shows that we use 3&4 and 6&8, but the diagram above indicates that I should use 3&5 and 6&7. Thoughts?

Never mind, posted before updating replies.

That's exactly where I got hung up as well.