Van's Static Port Kit?
 

Anyone have a recommendation as to which static system to use? The Van's Static Port Kit @ $19.00 does not have a picture on the website, so I have no idea what it looks like, how it mounts,, ect,,,,. I have read where there have been problems with sealing for testing/calibration checks with the rivet holes in the Vans kit. I used this http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...taticports.php in the Cozy MKIV and was happy with it, however it would cost a lot more than the Vans kit as I would have to buy two of them along with fittings and tubing. I am trying to keep to the plans as I have learned building the Cozy how deviations or modifications from the plans just add more build time and costs and usually are not worth the effort. Can anyone post a pic of the Vans Kit installation? Thanks.
Dave Clifford

Literally thousands of RVs have been flying for years with Van's static system with no problems. Take care to seal the tubing to the pop rivets with RTV. I don't care for the connectors that Van uses, but the pop rivet ports work great.

Dave,

I have a short list of things that I'd do different, or will do different when I build again and the static ports are one of these. I agree with Mel that thousands of RV's are flying with the one that comes with the planes, but with that said mine broke after two years. Talking to others it turns out that this isn't uncommom either. Basically in the vans kit you will be using two pop rivets as the static ports. After you pull the rivets you will use a punch or whatever to knock the shaft from the center of the rivet leaving an air passage. You will then use poly tubing which is basically ice maker tubing to press over the set/deformed pop rivet. The tubing takes some effort, warming, and finess to install onto the pop rivet but will work. The tubing is not stretchy in its nature and will resist you. You will be glad when it is installed and not split. You might even have to try more than once to install it without splitting the tubing.

After two years Sherri and I were on a trip and cruising along when the airspeed was suddenly 10 or 11 knots faster than normal. Not believing the indication I landed hot. Later when solo I went up and did some stalls and confirmed that the stall was 10 knots fast also. This implied a static leak, but I asked on these boards anyway about high airspeed indications. There were responses about how others plastic tubing had split where pressed onto the rivet over time and caused this indication. Armed with this the baggage bulkhead was pulled and there was the tube dangling off the static port/rivet with a clear split in the tubing.

Now you would think this is not a big deal to fix, and others will likely tell you this but here is what it took to do the job. The plane had to be secured and braced so that it won't fall over on its tail when you enter the aft fuse. (assuming nosewheel) You will need boards cut to allow you to crawl in. You will need to cut the tube to get a nice end to work with and hopefully you left enough slack to do this when you build, and then while on your knees with one hand bracing you on the floor try to look up while balancing yourself, use one hand to press the tube on with literally NO leverage being in this position. This was a two handed operation during the build and now you are trying to do it in a position that doesn't allow you to use your strength. The harder you push and try the more off balanced you will likely be which can lead to disaster if you become off balance and fall onto your planes belly or elevator pushrod tube. Honest, if you ever have to go in there you will wish you spend an extra $20 or $30 now to have real static ports with screw in fittings.

So do the Van's supplied ports work? Yes. Does it make sense to use them? Not once you have been in the rear fuse of a finished RV to work. It is very unpleasant.

My 2 cents.

Silicone tubing?
 

How about a short section of silicone tubing to transition from the hard plastic line to the pop rivet? It would help if you left your self short on the plastic tube, too.

Got the stretchy tubing in my kit
 

My kit came with some what looks like soft vinyl tubing for attaching the left and right ports together. It then gets T'ed on the left side, and that's where the hard tubing gets attached. I can't imagine using the hard tubing to attach directly to the static port.

I also made sure to provide some support for the tubing ... so far no problems, then again, I haven't flown yet :-)

I agree!
 

That's the way mine was supplied 16 years ago.

Mine too - soft tubing on the ports themseves, transitioning to the Nylon tubing to go forward to the panel.

Paul

While on the subject, how critical is static port location on an RV? I recently realized I installed the static ports on my -8 in the wrong location, one bay forward.

Yeah, they're the pop rivet type.

Now I gotra look at mine to see if it was the soft stuff that split. That was two years ago that crawling back into the plane on a 100 degree day happened. The planes down for the condition inspection so its all opened up. Either way, cruddy job.

The only way to know is to do some flight testing.

NACA Wartime Report A-64, "A flight investigation of fuselage static-pressure-vent airspeed installations" shows measurable differences in pressure from a 2 ft longitudinal change in aft fuselage static port location on a B-24. That change is a smaller change with respect to fuselage length than the one you made. So, it is quite likely that the pressures will be different from Van's recommended location. Moving closer to the wing is probably a bad change, as the pressure would be more likely to be affected by the flow over the wing.

Assuming you will fly before you paint the aircraft, there is no risk to try it as is. If you don't get acceptable results, then move the ports aft to where Van recommends. If you plan to paint, then fly, I would move the ports now.

Spanner thrown in the works.......
 

Has anyone had any experience with the static ports from aircraft spruce?

These are a little more serious than the Vans supplied units, but I am interested in static performance reliability etc.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...aticports1.php

Cheers

DB:cool:

Go and do some googling on machined static ports in RVs. Although it may be tempting to use them, many folks have reported problems with them, especially if they sit flush to the fuselage skin. Then again, others have used machined ports with no problem. If you search here on VAF you'll find many theories regarding why people may be having trouble with the machined ports.

More than one RVer that I know personally has bought the nice flush static ports and had all sorts of static issues, so it's sort of hit or miss -- go with the nice machined ports and risk having static issues, or go with Van's method which almost always produces good results. My two rv buddies ended up cutting the head off of the baffle pop rivet (some ones used for the static ports) and glued it to the machined ports. This solved their problem. I would guess if you could get a nice machined port with the same contour as the pop rivet you would probably be OK. I know that some folks have turned them on lathes, so that's always an option.

For what it's worth, I'm approaching 200 hours on my airplane and so far so good. Like the others, the thin, flexible stuff went over the pop rivets. I used plenty of low odor (=non-corrosive) RTV on the ports and every time I pull off the baggage wall I check them out. They still look like the day I installed them.

Use Pro-Seal to make a nice fillet around the base of the pop rivet where the plastic tube attaches. Also place a thin film of the stuff under the head of the pop rivet before you pull it. This will prevent a false leak indication during the static test that can occur if air leakes between the skin and the pop rivet head when the tester's suction cup is placed over the static port.

Pro-Seal adheares much better than silicone and will not leave residue that causes problems with paint later on. I used this method on my RV6 and RV7A and always passed the static leak test even after 18 years in service in the case of the RV6.

Martin Sutter
building and flying RV's since 1988

I got "smart" on an 8 A couple years ago and put a pop static in the typical Cessna position. It was easy and close and not prone to damage/failure and I thought I was really swift. Uh uh. more than 10k off. Put a pair of the machined ports with flat face/square lip in the Vans location and instantly nailed all the factory speeds almost exactly. Plans, we don' need no steenking plans!

Thanks for experimenting so we dont have to! And thanks for fessing up ;-)

Van's Static Port Kit
 

Van's kit works just fine and I can see no reason to find a substitute. It has worked 10+ years on my 6 and installed with no difficulty on my 10 or my 6. Remember that the tubing is under no pressure and no flow (essentially). A little RTV on the connection and a support about every foot are all you need to make it reliable. Some have used slip-on tubing connectors (great for O2 systems) but for static systems they are just throwing away money. Use the cheap plastic Tee's for connections.