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-   -   Avery's Rivet Shaver bit (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35075)

jeffw@sc47 03-16-2015 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whifof100ll (Post 263540)
Got some stainless steel tape from JC Whintey. Very thin (around .002")
Got 3" surface finishing disks and 1.5" mandrel from MSC. The ends of the disk flop over to give more flexibility.

Dale Whifof100ll
I tried your solution to trimming down proud flush rivets; worked like a charm.
I had a roll of metal tape with a peel off backing (I think it is a tape that is used on HVAC ductwork joints, and I had a 2" round arbor burnishing kit with some assorted scotch brite pads from HFreight. I used a right angle pneumatic die grinder first with a red abrasive disc and then finished with a blue fine. Took a couple of minutes to do four rivets in a row on the bottom side of the left elevator at the first inboard rib at the trim activator. No issues and easy. Thanks for the good description.

MikeyDale 03-16-2015 07:11 PM

I bought an Avery rivet shaver and was disappointed at first when trying to shave down a few rivets on my canopy fairing. After going back to it several times I started getting the hang of it and actually it works pretty good now. The cage turns a little and makes a little mark but soon all of the skin will be etched for painting and It will blend in fine.

tgmillso 01-29-2016 04:37 PM

Reverse thread on HD cage
 
For anyone purchasing the Zephyr heavy duty countersink cage from Brown tool, note that the locking ring and the adjustment body are reverse threaded compared to regular countersink tools. Traps for young players I guess. I think I may well use Dale's tape method anyway and report back.

Tom.

sglynn 01-29-2016 05:04 PM

Rivet Shaver Bit from Avery.
 
YES, I bought the rivet shaver bit and it works great. It takes a little finesse. Be careful with it. You can see what I did here. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=66691&row=188




Quote:

Originally Posted by jdmunzell (Post 263107)
Hi all. I just finished hand squeezing one of the end ribs on my left fuel tank, complete with Pro-Seal. After cleaning it all up afterwards, I noticed that around 6 or 7 rivets along the top side of the skin stick out ever so slightly on one side or the other. The area is along the forward part of the leading edge of the tank where the skins curves a lot. I tried resqueezing the rivets to try and flatten out the flush rivet heads but to no avail.

I'm sure they are quite structurely sound, but wondering what to do about the fit and finish here on these rivets. Can I attempt a lit bit of pneumatic riveting to try and set these a little flatter or is it too late now? Perhaps the rivet has hardened making it much harder to change their shape.

Avery Tools sells a rivet shaver bit that can be set in a C/S cage. The shaver bit is 7/16ths across though, making it kind of big for my needs.

Does anyone have any experience with this tool or any other recommendations for how to handle my problem?


tgmillso 03-10-2016 02:37 AM

Hi Guys,
I seem to be unable to to find the stainless steel tape (heaps of aluminium but not stainless steel) on either the JC Whitney or MSCDirect sites. The only stainless steel tape I can find is a role on Amazon, but it is 0.0038", not the 0.002" recommended by Dale. Has anyone been able to find 0.002" thick tape online, or is the Amazon tape OK for this application even though it's a little thicker?
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...0&PMT4TP=*LTIP

Cheers,
Tom.

lr172 03-10-2016 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgmillso (Post 1061053)
Hi Guys,
I seem to be unable to to find the stainless steel tape (heaps of aluminium but not stainless steel) on either the JC Whitney or MSCDirect sites. The only stainless steel tape I can find is a role on Amazon, but it is 0.0038", not the 0.002" recommended by Dale. Has anyone been able to find 0.002" thick tape online, or is the Amazon tape OK for this application even though it's a little thicker?
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...0&PMT4TP=*LTIP

Cheers,
Tom.

The thicker tape would work. You're using the tape as a sacrificial layer. Keeps sanding the area until the tape wears through. Once you start removing tape around the rivet, go a little bit easier/slower and you should notice when the steel is gone and you are into the adhesive layer. At the first sign of this, you stop.

Larry

tgmillso 03-11-2016 03:06 AM

Cool. Thanks Larry. I've gone ahead and ordered the stuff from Amazon. This should be an interesting grinding experience.
Cheers.
Tom.


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