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During my pre-cover inspection I was written up for 2 rivets in the wing like the ones in your picture. I sent a picture of the rivets to Vans.
This was their response: EXCERPT from Alcoa Aluminum Rivet Book, dated 1984. ?The standards to which driven rivets should conform are frequently uncertain. In addition to dimensions and perfection of shape, inspection is concerned with whether the drive head is coaxial with the shank (not ?clinched?) and whether there is excessive cracking of the heads. It has been determined that even badly cracked heads are satisfactory from the standpoint of static strength, fatigue strength and resistance to corrosion. (Poorly set and cracked) rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile strengths of all the rivets were within five per cent of the strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or replacement. The second rivet that is driven in any one hole likely to be more defective than the first because the hole is enlarged and rivet will be more likely to buckle and form an imperfect head. I did not replace my two rivets - Feel free to make your own decision. Paul |
You mentioned you are new - If you do decide to drill out:
* Use an automatic punch in the hole on the head * Use a #32 drill bit * When you put your #30 punch in the hole, you can pop the shop head off easily No expanded holes that way |
Drilling out rivets
Well, I have to say, I've become a bit of a master at drilling out rivets. The technique I use is to get a good center (automatic punch or whatever, then drill straight through with a #40 or smaller drill. This seems to relieve the pressure on the sides of the rivet gripping the hole. Then I drill down with a #30 or slightly smaller just enough to enable me to pop the head off using a 1/8" punch. Then back the rivet up with a block of wood, socket, whatever (I prefer wood; less damage and marring to the structure) and punch it out using the 1/8" punch. I've found that although it takes longer to double-drill, it is easier to punch the rivet out and I rarely screw up the hole this way. Also, if the smaller 'thru'-hole is slightly off center you run less risk of ovalling the hole and causing a bigger problem. While this method serves *me* well; ymmv, use this method at your own risk.
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See this thread with a similar question. I would think you do not need to drill it out unless you are confident you can do so without enlarging the hole.
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If you are concerned about what other people who might see the rivet will think about your work more than the actual strength of the joint, then drill it out. I think a lot of people want their work to appear to be near perfect, so they will drill out a rivet that is structurally sound, failing to realize their their more-perfect looking replacement is actually weaker. Not that the replacement, prettier rivet, though weaker, will not still be strurturelly sound, too.
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Try putting a piece of masking tape on the universal head before riveting.
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Another Question...
...to ask yourself....
Would you fly on a Boeing if it's rivets looked like that? gil A |
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