Part #s for the new style 7A/9A nose brackets?
 

Hi ya'll,

I guess I'm going to do the nosegear mod (finally - been meaning to do it for a while). Can someone help me out with the new style part numbers for the brackets that attach the pant to the nose gear?

I think it is likely I'll have to drill out my existing brackets, and I'd like to take the opportunity to switch to the 'slide over the axel' style of the new brackets.

I sent an e-mail to Van's requesting that info also. You new style people should have that info. Does the new fork eliminate the need to secure the pant with the axle bolt?

Roberta

New brackets?
 

Maybe there is a new bracket but my original fairing bolted right on the new fork with no changes.

I did this conversion to the new fork about a year ago on my 9a---given the distance from Texas to Oregon (the location of the machine shop Vans recommends for the leg mod), the associated shipping costs, and the down time, I bought a threader and did it myself. We used a friends Harbor Freight electric hack saw table to cut off the 1" of leg. Much cutting oil and elbow grease on the thread cutting. Details are in the archives.

Reference the wheel pant attach brackets: I used the ones I had--simply drill out the rivets that attach them to your fg pant and convert the pant/bracket attach points to flush screws/nutplates. This way the bracket stays with the fork and you don't have to remove the axle when removing the nose pant. It really was not a big deal. BTW, this is now the standard method of attaching the pant on the newer A models.

Cheers,

db

fairing attachment
 

Can you / someone detail / show photos of this new attachment. I looked at using nutplates but the profile of the fairing meant I couldn't get it over the brackets (like you can with the main wheel fairings). Is it just a can of being more brutal and springing the fibreglass as needed?

Thanks,

Carl

You really don't need to flex the nose fairing much if you slide it on from the rear. As a matter of fact, the amount of "flex" required to clear the brackets when they are mounted to the fork/axle bolt (new way) is no more than the amount of "flex" required to clear the fork when the bracket was riveted to the pant (old way)---the parts and dimensions are the same.

This sounds way more complicated than it is--you really should not have a problem.

Sorry I don't have any pics but if you have any friends who recently started a 7a or a 9a, their new plans show the described configuration.

Cheers,

db

where to get Thread cutter
 

Hi Dave ,

It looks like a 1.25-16 thread. Where did you find that animal? - Thanks.

Pete,

If I remember correctly I bought mine here in San Antonio at San Tex Cutting Tools----phone # is 210-349-9497. I bought the adjustable threader and started out with a shallow cut and slowly brought the depth to a point where the nut went on but was still tight. Use lots of cutting oil, go slow, and have the gear leg blocked down tight in a large vise.

Details of the process are in the archives---you will need a longer than normal fixture in which to mount the threader--to get enough leverage to cut the carbon steel leg. The threader that I bought was only good for my nose gear and one on a friends 6a---after that it is pretty dull.

Best of luck!!

Cheers,

db

Can you provide a link to the archives thread? I sure would love to do this my self.

What size is the threads?

Geico266,

Try the following link--about 2/3 way down the page.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...highlight=fork

Good luck!!

Cheers,

db

ps. The tool was purchased from San Tex as stated above--not McMasterCarr.