vw diesel engines
 

im a vw nut... currently im building a vw 1.6 diesel engine for an 82 jetta

ive built these engines before, and you can get some good power out of them at 3k rpm


some of the 1.9 engines came with VNT turbo's which would be very easy to control in a plane with just a lever... and they have even bigger and even twin cam diesel engines...

my 1.6 complete with oil weighs in around 280lbs or so, and produces about 150hp /w 25psi on a high performance injection pump. which is not bad! fuel burn in the car is about 42-44mpg so in a plane i think fuel burn would be very good.

the 1.9 engines make more power down low because of the larger displacement, they make 150hp engines from the factory in europe (pd150) and with just a turbo upgrade, light modding from the fuel pump, and more boost these are 225hp engines pretty darn reliably...

i'd imagine the 1.9 engine would wiegh the same since the block is for the most part the same casting...

anyone look into this at all?

may not be the lightest and fastest engine in an RV, i've been thinking about building a drgonfly, which uses a 250lb engine, so this would be a little on the heavy side but it would make pretty good power, they even make engines as small as 1L

The Tielert engine is 2L (used to be 1.7 L).

i dont know what your talking about?

Here: http://www.centurion-engines.com/ or here: http://se.cessna.com/skyhawktd/
It's a 2L turbo diesel, The block is a Mercedes Benz automotive I believe ? but heavily modded. This will be very similar to a 1.9 L VW turbo diesel engine conversion, so it should be doable.

are there any around similar that are not certified? certified = $ x's 2

One TDI fan here
 

Only one problem with using this engine.

Add to that 280 lbs the radiators, pluming, PRU, ECU, and all accessories and you have exceeded the weight of an O-320 by a good amount.

However, if you want to build one up for your RV, that would be great!

One thing regarding the turbo. Auto turbos don't tend to hold up well in aircraft because they not designed to run under boost 100% of the time.

radiators and plumbing weigh next to nothing... no ecu, everything is mechanically fuel injected and the glow plugs only need to be on a few seconds before starting (when cold) and only holds around 4 quarts of oil...

i'd like to bring a scale out into the garage and weigh all the pieces... bock, head, manifolds, turbo, stock radiator (obviously huge for an airplane), accessories...

should be very interesting...

Don't think about it, go weigh it!!!

What does a 0-320 weight with carb, intake and exhaust manifold, mags, baffles and oil?

Weigh up the VW engine, manifold, turbo, rad, oil, water (what? 7lb/gal?), injection system, whatever engine management is needed, and intake manifold

The difference in those should give you the difference in installation weight b/w the VW and the Lyc. Might could save a little weight on the VW by going to an aftermarket rad and oil cooler, a fabbed steel exhaust mani (I assume it's cast iron now?) and a lightweight intake mani.

Do you have a source for anymore info (power curves, turbo maps, dimensional information, etc.) on the VW Diesels? Are they iron block and heads? (surely not!) I've been thinking about these for a while, but can never find any info.

(as far as the turbos, I'd tend to agree that it'd be bad to use the stock (Garret, at least on the recent ones) turbo, but there's surely plenty of upgraded turbos available in that range (alot of motorcycle racers use turbos in the flow range, for example))

I drive a 02 Golf TDI. Absolutely love it, 48mpg and an amazing amount of torque for an engine rated at 90hp.

I don't believe it would be good choice in an aircraft, for a couple of reasons: weight due to it having a cast iron block; single timing belt, which requires periodic replacement. Also having a single injector pump would make me nervous, a bit like running on a single mag...

Not sure about an 02 VW, but i think the later VW/Audi TDI's are direct injection (like, no "injector pump", just a high pressure fuel pump.) So, go with that setup, and run a backup pump and ECM.

As far as timing belts requiring "periodic replacement"....what is the interval on the car? 90k miles? Quick calc: 90k miles at 90 mph is 1000 hrs. So why not set the interval at 500 hours, and change it (instead of sparkplugs!! :) )

I'm not arguing that this is a great choice at this point, but I'm not willing to count it out on these marks. Any idea if the newer engines are ally block?