RE: Panel/Paint
 

Hi to all

Will one step forward two steps back........Here is a picture of my panel!! I was all excited to start the wiring tomorrow....but NO... :( Why you ask? The very expensive Professional High Performance Enamel Flat Black Rust-Oleum
paint just doesn't hold up. I guess I could put a clear coat on top and lose some of the flat shine or just get the old paint remover out and start from scratch???? :eek: What to do? Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.


By fstringham, shot with C765UZ at 2007-07-10


Frank @ SGU RV7A Panel/Electrica

My panel is Rustoleum also; and was painted with a spray gun. But--------it just isn't that tough, and is easy to scratch, and sometimes pulls off when removing labels.

If, and when I create another panel (or portions) for glass instruments, etc; I'll use a paint like I've done on the exterior. It's extremely tough, flexible, resistant to chemicals, and the stickiest tape has yet to pull it off the metal.

Sherwin Williams Genesis 3.5. But it really is awfully expensive! :D

L.Adamson

You could use black wrinkle paint, available from Wicks.

Panel paint
 

I just painted my panel this morning before work!!!! What timing for this post. I spent the extra money for PPG black, DCU single stage. Then dulled it down with their flattening agent. I already had the flattener from painting my interior light gray. It looks fabulous but hind sight is 20/20. I found out too late that PPG sells rattle cans of various interior colors, like gray, tan, black, etc. It is already dulled down. Not totally flat but not semi-gloss either. The tattooed lady at my local auto paint store says the PPG rattle can paint is high quality. Next time I will save myself the $45 for a pint of black PPG DCU paint and use the PPG rattle cans. Check it out.

You still need to put it over a good primer so it won?t peal off!!!!

Sincerely, Brian Vickers, RV4 finishing

I haven't had any problems with scratches on my rattle-can panel....but then I used heat lamps to cure it overnight when it was fresh. I mean, it was too hot to put your hand on it....nice hard finish!

One data point,

Paul

Plastic, not paint
 

Hi everyone,

I'm not as far along as ya'll, but using Formica or a clone makes for a bionic surface. No runs, drips, scratches - fairly inexpensive, colors and textures galor. With some of the thicker sheets you can even "carve" your labels right into it. It's what I'm gonna use.

Jeff

powder coat
 

I had painted mine myself but wasn't quite happy with the results (was looking for perfection since I would be staring at the panel for thousands of hours). Decided to get mine powder coated! That is a nice, hard and durable finish that will last a while. Ironically, the powder coat color is the same one that Van's uses... and it matches my interior paint (Dupont Nason) exactly.

Cost was very reasonable at $50. Check out some local powder coat shops if you want to try an alternative.

Ditto on the powder coating. It's very durable and you can match practically any interior paint scheme you desire.

Another Dito on PC
 

Another Dito for powder coating. I used a sandy beige and matched interior paint perfectly. Mine ran about $70 for the panel but the result was great!

Jim

RE:4:00AM Stripper/Panel That Is!!!!!!
 

Follow up to the above.....very restless night .....after reading your excellent advice. Talk to my wife about the choices and she said......"After spending $80 K plus why would you go cheap on the panel. Lets powder coat" :o .....So got up at 4:00 Am dismanteled the panel and began the stripping process in preparation for the powder coating. New decision though....value of the color....light or dark or something inbetween? ANY advice would be appreciated.

Thanks as always and will this ever end!!!!!!!!!Just Kidding :rolleyes:

Frank @ SGU RV7A Panel Powder Coating/ ELECTRICAL