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Need help removing a Pro-Sealed Fuel Sender
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OK, I admit it, sorry, I don't have an RV, but you guys are my great hope in solving a problem. I need to remove one of my fuel senders, Proseal-ed to a fiberglass rib, which is the inner end of the tank, inside the wing, accessed only via a 6" access cover, about 1 foot away from the sender and rib. The sender won't let go from the rib for love or money! And it's a huge pain getting to it with tools and seeing what you are doing at the same time. Tried various prying, twisting, etc., but Proseal is tough stuff. And of course, for various reasons, heat isn't a good idea for this situation Any ideas?
Here's a picture of the situation....Picture is before the screws and safety wire were removed.... Reinhard Metz N49EX n49ex@aol.com |
If you can get in there with a sharpened putty knife, it'll do the trick.
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Need help removing a Pro-Sealed Fuel Sender
Thanks!
I've tried with a sharpened L shaped piece of .040 stainless, hammering it as well as I could, and haven't been able to get it to start into the, what is a very thin layer of Pro-seal/thin to nearly non-existent gap.... I'll try again with a putty knife, which may be easier to hammer... |
Some heat directed right on the sender puck with a heat gun on low will soak through and soften up the pro-seal enough to easily remove it with the help of a sharpened putty knife. You won’t hurt the composite if you don’t over do it.
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Seems to me I had some success with using a length of safety wire as a saw - just enough to get a spot to pry from. I could remember wrong, I know I tried it, but can't be 100% sure how well it worked.
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When removing my rear tank panel, I heated a small chunk of steel with a torch pretty hot but not turning color. I then held it against the area I was prying loose. I was able to pry loose and move the steel block along then re-heat as necessary. Use the torch well away from the fuel tank of course. This worked really well to soften the pro seal.
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Van's told me to try sharpening the end of a hacksaw blade, maintaining the rounded shape of the end, then slowly working it into the seal in several places. At that point a thicker, stiffer tool can be inserted and slowly (carefully) twisted to break the seal
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Low adhesion sealant
Next time, use low adhesion sealant. I found some at skygeek.com
Bevan |
Lacquer will soften the proseal, if it does not react with your fiberglass.
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