So if it doesn?t come apart installing it then it won?t come off in flight? Then that?s what I would do.

Try the ckickbond nutplate. The nutplates are bonded to the inside of the skin so you never have to rivet anything through the skin. The adhesive it uses is super strong and it is certified for all kinds of aerospace structures. The only hole you have to drill is the hole for the flush screw

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...?clickkey=9826

Once you use it, it don't want to use the traditional method again.

It's a great idea but WOW are they expensive ! I always like to read the reivews :

"I have been using these nut plates extensively for many years. they are very good in situations where you would like to have a locking nut but dont want a nut on the back, however, they do wear out, and there is the issue of them occasionally popping off...."

This thread just got me thinking again (still dangerous :)) I want to install some nutplates in a space that's tight but not structural so I'm going with my previous idea, JB Weld which will be permanent.

The hardest part of the job is running the wires safely through the fuselage and wings. Cutting the holes in the leading edge, or putting them in the wingtips, is a snap.

TIP: Putting a lightweight conduit in the wings during construction will make you smile later, or make a subsequent owner smile.

No question about it. My RV-3B has factory built wings and they have a PVC conduit from the root to the tip. Very nice. When I ran my lead to a temperature probe mid wing I acessed the conduit from an inspection plate and carefully routed out a hole in it to spliit out the probe wire. So the wiring has been the easiest part of my wingtip light install.

When I decided to install the Dynon AOA heated pitot tube in my 10 year old plane the thing that had me the most preoccupied was threading those wires through the wing because I had read on the forum so many horror stories.

Again, I'm not a RV builder but with the help of a twice around RV-4 builder (thanks Arlie) we came up with a simple solution that took a little over an hour total.

Drill through the ribs, install plastic Lowe's snap bushings, then add a PEX tube (which is smooth inside) and done! I put a little bit of Goop sealer where the PEX came into the fuse to keep it from moving and the wires went through easily. We first thought about using a PVC pipe but then realized that PEX weighs less than PVC.

As long as the adhesive holds. The aerospace adhesive evolved quite a bit since the late 70's. Back then nobody trusted adhesive alone and structure design have reams of paper to certify the bonded joints will hold. Now bonded joints can be used in primary structural elements because the method like Click-Bond made applying it fool proof. I had JB weld on my motorcycle that had the transmission case crack from a minor tip over. It still hold for over 20 years now.

Those are great but don't gain anything with the Duckwors leading edge landing light install kit because there are no nutplate rivets through the wing skins. They are in the internal retaining strips exclusively so hidden in the wing. They are easy to rivet on the bench prior to installing in the wing.

Sorry to be slightly off topic but can the duckworks kit be installed without removing the fibreglass wing tip? Mine is riveted in place and would be a pain to remove.

Riveted tips make it a bigger process for sure. All the DW lamp installs I did were with the tips off, can't think of how I could do it with them on.