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-   -   Novice attempting to build the toolbox kit (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=181113)

BrettShaffer 04-06-2020 08:14 AM

Novice attempting to build the toolbox kit
 
Hello VAF Community,

I'm a building novice and I've had the itch to build an RV-10 for some time now. I decided to make the plunge into the project by buying the essential tools and equipment to build the Vans toolbox kit. I started with the Cleaveland tool kit for the RV-10 and selected all of the tools that Vans has marked with a double asterisk on their recommended tool page, but I'm somewhat confused by the lack of asterisks around a dimpling mechanism. How would you dimple for rivets without a C-frame or DRDT2? If a dimpler is required, anything else on that list that should be marked with asterisks?

Thank you and looking forward to joining the community.

jacoby 04-06-2020 09:20 AM

The corners and the lid are dimpled on the toolbox. It's a small enough project that you could get by with the pop-rivet style dimplers but you'd be better off getting the c-frame should you choose to build on.

FWIW, if you buy the kit, there is at least one place the instructions say to use a c-frame vs a squeezer: the tank attach screw dimples. The c-frame can also be used to back rivet some smaller pieces that can be a bit tricky/impossible with a squeezer or rivet gun like the aileron brackets, some nut plates (I just used mine to attach the stall warning nut plates), etc.

wirejock 04-06-2020 09:34 AM

C-frame
 
C-Frame vs DRDT is such a personal choice, they leave it up to the builder.
Personally, that applies to quite a few on the list. I recommend new builders work with a Mentor before buying any tools. A few hours will help form a preference.

Mike S 04-06-2020 10:03 AM

Welcome to VAF
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BrettShaffer (Post 1419995)
Hello VAF Community,

Brett, welcome to VAF----good to have you aboard.

rocketman1988 04-06-2020 10:09 AM

Exactly
 
Yes, personal choice, especially with the C frame and DRDT.

I had both initially and compared the results across hundreds of practice rivets. I found that they both do a good job but I was able to get more consistent results with the DRDT due to the variability in striking the C frame die. YMMV.

Oh, the DRDT is also almost silent...the ringing from the C frame 20,000+ times gets old!:D

KeithB 04-06-2020 10:59 AM

Quote:

Yes, personal choice, especially with the C frame and DRDT.
I was fortunate to have both a C-frame and DRDT (Chapter tools). I preferred the DRDT for all sheet metal rivet holes, but the C-frame did give ?slightly? crisper dimples, and I used it for most screw dimples. Also, for dimpling nut plates, the c-frame did much better (multiple hits). The pneumatic squeezer also got used in some circumstances.

On a selected basis, I also used a pop rivet dimple die.

rocketman1988 04-06-2020 11:10 AM

curious
 
Could those "crisper dimple be relative to the dies being used, or did you end up creating a sharp break with an excessive hammer strike?

BrettShaffer 04-13-2020 09:59 AM

Thanks for the advice!

Follow-up questions:

After removing the cleco fasteners, some of them left circular marks. Is there a way to avoid this or does it matter?
https://i.imgur.com/mOIT432.jpg



Also, my deburring tool I used for the sheet edges does not fit inside the #40 drilled holes. What's the best way to debur the holes? I have a #40 countersink cutter (below) -- could this work?
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1581818802

wirejock 04-13-2020 10:37 AM

Help
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BrettShaffer (Post 1421998)
Thanks for the advice!
Follow-up questions:

After removing the cleco fasteners, some of them left circular marks. Is there a way to avoid this or does it matter?

Also, my deburring tool I used for the sheet edges does not fit inside the #40 drilled holes. What's the best way to debur the holes? I have a #40 countersink cutter (below) -- could this work?

Doesn't matter unless you plan to polish. The whole plane will be scuffed before paint. Most likely it was a loose shard from the drill that spun. You will see lots of them after countersinking a hole. If you want to pad the clekos, but some cleko pads or buy a package of paper reinforcements. One package goes a long way and costs almost nothing.

Yes, that cutter will work but just a turn or two with light pressure.

jacoby 04-13-2020 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrettShaffer (Post 1421998)
Thanks for the advice!

Follow-up questions:

After removing the cleco fasteners, some of them left circular marks. Is there a way to avoid this or does it matter?
https://i.imgur.com/mOIT432.jpg



Also, my deburring tool I used for the sheet edges does not fit inside the #40 drilled holes. What's the best way to debur the holes? I have a #40 countersink cutter (below) -- could this work?
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1581818802

The circular marks are normal and don't affect anything unless you plan to polish. You can get rubber boots that go on the end of the cleco if they really bother you but they run about the same cost as a cleco. You'll scuff up the surface worse than that when you go to paint or prime.

You can use a sharp twist drill to deburr the holes. Use something like a 1/4" drill bit and give it a twist by hand to remove the burr. The exact size doesn't matter as long as it's bigger than the hole.

I have the ATS deburr tool and it works well. It's worth the purchase should you start to build the airplane.


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