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Novice attempting to build the toolbox kit
Hello VAF Community,
I'm a building novice and I've had the itch to build an RV-10 for some time now. I decided to make the plunge into the project by buying the essential tools and equipment to build the Vans toolbox kit. I started with the Cleaveland tool kit for the RV-10 and selected all of the tools that Vans has marked with a double asterisk on their recommended tool page, but I'm somewhat confused by the lack of asterisks around a dimpling mechanism. How would you dimple for rivets without a C-frame or DRDT2? If a dimpler is required, anything else on that list that should be marked with asterisks? Thank you and looking forward to joining the community. |
The corners and the lid are dimpled on the toolbox. It's a small enough project that you could get by with the pop-rivet style dimplers but you'd be better off getting the c-frame should you choose to build on.
FWIW, if you buy the kit, there is at least one place the instructions say to use a c-frame vs a squeezer: the tank attach screw dimples. The c-frame can also be used to back rivet some smaller pieces that can be a bit tricky/impossible with a squeezer or rivet gun like the aileron brackets, some nut plates (I just used mine to attach the stall warning nut plates), etc. |
C-frame
C-Frame vs DRDT is such a personal choice, they leave it up to the builder.
Personally, that applies to quite a few on the list. I recommend new builders work with a Mentor before buying any tools. A few hours will help form a preference. |
Welcome to VAF
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Exactly
Yes, personal choice, especially with the C frame and DRDT.
I had both initially and compared the results across hundreds of practice rivets. I found that they both do a good job but I was able to get more consistent results with the DRDT due to the variability in striking the C frame die. YMMV. Oh, the DRDT is also almost silent...the ringing from the C frame 20,000+ times gets old!:D |
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On a selected basis, I also used a pop rivet dimple die. |
curious
Could those "crisper dimple be relative to the dies being used, or did you end up creating a sharp break with an excessive hammer strike?
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Thanks for the advice!
Follow-up questions: After removing the cleco fasteners, some of them left circular marks. Is there a way to avoid this or does it matter? https://i.imgur.com/mOIT432.jpg Also, my deburring tool I used for the sheet edges does not fit inside the #40 drilled holes. What's the best way to debur the holes? I have a #40 countersink cutter (below) -- could this work? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1581818802 |
Help
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Yes, that cutter will work but just a turn or two with light pressure. |
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You can use a sharp twist drill to deburr the holes. Use something like a 1/4" drill bit and give it a twist by hand to remove the burr. The exact size doesn't matter as long as it's bigger than the hole. I have the ATS deburr tool and it works well. It's worth the purchase should you start to build the airplane. |
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