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Snorkel time
well, I thought that I would begin to document the installation of the snorkel with the FM-150. But some of this can be extrapolated to the standard fuel controller.
1. I am not fond of the plans way of lining up the snorkel with the fuel controller. Drawing a circle, doing a bunch of gymnastics and measuring to make sure that it is line up. It just seemed like a real PITA. So instead, I measured the ID of the FM-150 (66 mm) and the Snorkel (61 mm). I made a drawing of a "jig" to insert into the opening and sent it to my daughter. 30 minutes later (5 minutes of her time) she sent me the STL file from a CAD drawing. 1 hour after that a colleague 3d printed it. I had to wrap the snorkel side with 2 layers of electrical tape to get it to fit snuggly. Then I had to cut a notch out for FM-150. I guesstimated the length to fit into the FM-150 at 1/2", which was too long. But cutting out notch was no big deal. I posted pictures on my FB page--Ken's RV-14. The part was a total of 24mm long. I think that if you went with 8 for the part that sticks into the FM-150, then that would avoid trimming. But I am not sure if the is deep enough into the fuel controller. I made the initial cut to the top of the snorkel to get the flanges flush. 2. I was wondering if anyone else noticed this, but it appears that the starter touches the snorkel. I wonder if I need to trim (thin) a bit of the snorkel so that the snorkel does not touch the starter. Any thoughts? Next up is to slice down the sides of the snorkel and get the top portion to fit with the flange the connects to the baffle. |
This is a popular topic here on Vans. Search for "frankensnorkel" .. maybe you can guess what you might be in for ;-) It was a learning experience for me.
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http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=162451 I followed Nova RV's method and it worked well |
Turner--
Thanks, I have read that thread a couple of times. I posted to it in the last week or so. So is it better to modify the snorkel or modify the starter? I have not looked at the starter close enough to know if I can cut anything off of it. Seems like a better idea to modify the snorkel. |
Modify the snorkel
I have an FM-150/B&C starter combo. I made cut outs in the snorkel where there were clearance issues. I then pressed clay onto the inside of the snorkel at the cutouts and molded the clay to allow adequate clearance, then fiberglassed over the cutouts. The clay provided support/backing for the fiberglass cloth.
You can see the cutouts here: ![]() Pressing clay onto the inside of the snorkel: ![]() Finished product: ![]() |
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For me, it's nice to know that option exists. It also reinforces how dangerous touching or moving a prop can be, if a mag is hot for whatever reason. I cringe when I see pictures of people touching or leaning on a prop. Note: All caveats about being correctly taught how to hand prop an airplane, knowing how to properly and safely hand prop an airplane with a larger engine, and taking the appropriate precautions when doing so, apply. This is a not a self-taught or YouTube-taught activity. |
Jeff--
Thanks. I just did exactly what you did with the clay. Then I read your post. How many layers of fiberglass did you use? I put on 3 initially, then some peel ply, so I can add another layer easily if I need to. thanks ken |
3 works
3 layers should work. After the fiberglass was cured I also brushed on a coat of resin after sanding.
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the gap between the flange and the snorkel is 5/8" in my case, which is a very large gap. I am wondering how to deal with the gap in the front. IN the back, I can just push it back. The front is more challenging. There is less distance I can cut down on the front inside sedge to push the section back. I wish I could post pictures. here. I can post to my facebook Ken's RV-14.
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