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-   -   Leaking Fuel Tank Rivet (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=178208)

f14av8r 12-31-2019 03:08 PM

Leaking Fuel Tank Rivet
 
Okay, so I've tried all the tricks to get this rivet to quit leaking. No amount of pressurized cattle syringe injection of any type of sealant has worked. They slowed the leak quite a bit but have not stopped it completely. So, I'm ready to take the plunge, drill this sucker out and replace it with a new, sealant coated rivet so I can get the leak stopped and the paint back in order!

The plans call for a AN470AD4-4 rivet. Obviously, I'll need a blind countersunk rivet for the replacement. To save me having to learn all about Cherry Max rivets again, would one of you rivet wizards tell me what I should use here please?
Thanks,
Randy






Rv3Dave 12-31-2019 03:51 PM

Your looking at the wrong drawing for the rivet that is leaking.
The one in the picture is probably an an3-3.5 I don?t think you will find a pop rivet that will work in this size and location. Your best bet will be to remove the tank and open up the rear baffle to access the rivet so it can be replaced and resealed.
Do a search for tank leak repair and you will find many threads on this problem.

f14av8r 12-31-2019 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rv3Dave (Post 1396534)
Your looking at the wrong drawing for the rivet that is leaking.
The one in the picture is probably an an3-3.5 I don?t think you will find a pop rivet that will work in this size and location. Your best bet will be to remove the tank and open up the rear baffle to access the rivet so it can be replaced and resealed.
Do a search for tank leak repair and you will find many threads on this problem.

Thanks Dave! But, I'll let it leak at the rate it is leaking FOREVER before I pull the tank and open it up to fix that one problem.

I sure can't figure out what drawing I should be looking at if not that one. That's why I need one of you builder wizards to help me out!

Kyle Boatright 12-31-2019 04:41 PM

Back in the old days, one of the factory guys suggested using one of the 1/8" sealed end pop rivets you use to attach the aft baffle to the ribs. You drill the offending hole out to 1/8", countersink it a bit if it is dimpled, then put a dab of proseal on the rivet and install. You come back once the proseal is cured and file or sand the rivet to some acceptable level of flushness.

After that, you fill and paint...

mulde35d 12-31-2019 05:52 PM

Old rivet
 
Watch for the shop head of the current rivet when it is drilled out. FOD in the fuel tank is never a good thing.

Bavafa 12-31-2019 06:21 PM

Why not trying the green Loctite method to see if that will fix it before opening the back>

Scott Hersha 12-31-2019 09:15 PM

What Kyle said.... should work fine and be a relatively simple install. Make sure you clean the area perfectly to assure the proseal sticks and let it cure for a few days. Then all you have to worry about is the cosmetics - no problem. If you need a couple of those sealed end pop rivets, let me know, I?ll send you a couple.

Jpm757 12-31-2019 09:36 PM

What about using an MK319-BS rivet?

Kyle Boatright 12-31-2019 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jpm757 (Post 1396587)
What about using an MK319-BS rivet?

Might work, might not. Those aren't sealed end rivets, so you'd have to get proseal down into the rivet (into the area where the mandrel is) and hope it holds.

rocketman1988 01-01-2020 08:00 AM

maybe
 
Maybe an AK-42H...countersunk, closed end, blind rivet...


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