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-   -   Push button starter question (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=169230)

rocketman1988 03-09-2019 11:30 AM

Or
 
Or you could use a wireless system.

Now where did I leave that key fob?;)

Robertc 03-09-2019 04:21 PM

I used push button start, toggles on the Pmags and a keyed master. Granger has the master switch here.
https://www.grainger.com/category/el...s/key-switches

Scott Hersha 03-09-2019 04:31 PM

I?ve used the red button starter from Stein with bezel on all 3 of my RV?s. On this latest one, I used a keyed enable switch (from Stein) to enable the starter push button. Turn off and remove the key when you aren?t there to prevent unauthorized use. Master switch on, won?t enable the start button without the keyed switch turned on.

RandyAB 03-09-2019 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Hersha (Post 1330467)
I?ve used the red button starter from Stein with bezel on all 3 of my RV?s. On this latest one, I used a keyed enable switch (from Stein) to enable the starter push button. Turn off and remove the key when you aren?t there to prevent unauthorized use. Master switch on, won?t enable the start button without the keyed switch turned on.

What is the advantage of that setup over using an off/on/momentary start switch? You accomplish the same thing as far as I can tell with less panel space being taken up.

N804RV 03-10-2019 01:48 PM

I've been thinking about putting a 7 amp automotive fuse inline with the starter switch and locating it somewhere inconspicuous. That would at least slow down any would be "barefoot bandits".

I'm actually more worried about somebody making off with my avionics.

rv7charlie 03-10-2019 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RandyAB (Post 1330479)
What is the advantage of that setup over using an off/on/momentary start switch? You accomplish the same thing as far as I can tell with less panel space being taken up.

Largely personal preference, but the combined switch does run the risk of inadvertent starter activation, especially by someone not familiar with the system ('hmm; shouldn't the master go all the way up???'). Depending on architecture, a combo switch that can handle start solenoid current could cost quite a bit more than 2 separate switches (and be much harder to source, if it fails while 'on the road').

Everything's a compromise. :-)

Carl Froehlich 03-10-2019 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N804RV (Post 1330630)
I've been thinking about putting a 7 amp automotive fuse inline with the starter switch and locating it somewhere inconspicuous. That would at least slow down any would be "barefoot bandits".

I'm actually more worried about somebody making off with my avionics.

Interesting as this is opposite of my priorities. I worry most about some kid getting in an hitting the start button. Not so much that the engine will start, but the prop hitting someone else. So steps taken to not let a push of the start button engaging the starter.

If someone wants to steal avionics, canopy security makes little difference. For this reason I did not put a lock on the canopy (other than a canopy cover when away from home and parked on the ramp). Insurance will pay for avionics, but repairing a broken canopy would be heartbreaking.

Carl

rv7charlie 03-10-2019 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N804RV (Post 1330630)
I've been thinking about putting a 7 amp automotive fuse inline with the starter switch and locating it somewhere inconspicuous. That would at least slow down any would be "barefoot bandits".

I'm actually more worried about somebody making off with my avionics.

Simplest thing is just a hidden switch in series with the start PB.

On 'wireless': one of the 'Popular' (either Sci or Mech) mags had an editor's page about hopping in his car with his kid, driving to the store, hitting the start/stop button, making his purchases, coming back out and discovering he didn't have his fob. He'd laid it on the roof of the car at home while he checked on something, and the car cranked up because the fob was close enough for communication. Continued to run when the fob fell off somewhere between home & store, but obviously wouldn't re-start with the fob many blocks away....

Charlie

Mel 03-10-2019 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv7charlie (Post 1330661)
Simplest thing is just a hidden switch in series with the start PB.
On 'wireless': one of the 'Popular' (either Sci or Mech) mags had an editor's page about hopping in his car with his kid, driving to the store, hitting the start/stop button, making his purchases, coming back out and discovering he didn't have his fob. He'd laid it on the roof of the car at home while he checked on something, and the car cranked up because the fob was close enough for communication. Continued to run when the fob fell off somewhere between home & store, but obviously wouldn't re-start with the fob many blocks away....
Charlie

Not sure what kind of car he had, but if this happens with my cars, when you try to turn the ignition off, the car will tell you, "There is no fob available. Are you sure you want to turn off?"

RandyAB 03-10-2019 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv7charlie (Post 1330646)
Largely personal preference, but the combined switch does run the risk of inadvertent starter activation, especially by someone not familiar with the system ('hmm; shouldn't the master go all the way up???'). Depending on architecture, a combo switch that can handle start solenoid current could cost quite a bit more than 2 separate switches (and be much harder to source, if it fails while 'on the road').

Everything's a compromise. :-)

Thanks for piping in Charliie. I know from previous posts that you are quite knowledgeable about electrical stuff. There are a few Honeywell swithches in the Grainger link provided several posts up that handle 20 amps. How much current are the switches expected to handle? The solenoid does the heavy lifting for the most part does it not?


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