![]() |
Quote:
If I did it again I would do a separate adjacent detached building - spacing only needs to be 5 ft...:) Also if you are doing a metal building make the depth an increment of the maximum main cross beam spacing - 25 ft in our no-snow area but less up North I guess. You are essentially buying the building by the pound of steel so that spacing is the most efficient. |
Quote:
|
Many years ago out in OK, I saw a 40+ foot one-piece door with counterweights, & loved it. I built both of mine, a 42' on the main hangar and a 30' on the 'shop side' (where the RV-4 actually lives), out of 6" irrigation tubing, covered with SunTuf polycarbonate. No motors; just swing 'em up & down by hand. I tweaked a few things on the 2nd one, and I'd tweak a few more if I ever built a 3rd, but I wouldn't want any other type of door. No wind rating at all, and you'd never get them past an actual inspector, but the older one's lived through what was left of a couple of hurricanes (~180 miles from the Gulf) and numerous tornado producing storms with winds in the 50-70 mph range.
I built & erected the smaller one totally alone, and had the help of a high schooler on the 2nd. (edit: gin pole on a tractor to erect it; a borrowed scissor lift made attaching the counterweight booms a lot easier.) Rivets & gussets on the 1st, like a proper a/c door. Metal roofing screws on the 2nd; a lot faster & ended up being stronger. Charlie |
Quote:
I've seen a few hangars with the bottom track raised like you say and it seems the biggest hazard is people tripping...:) As a separate item the lexan panels of the Horton door give lots of light into the hangar if you don't need to insulate them. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
http://www.hortonstackdoor.com/tech_track.htm In my case a local welding shop made it in 3 pieces with plates that bolted them together end to end. The concrete slab guys did the rest including a 3 foot apron with a gentle slope away from the door. I like the fact I don't need an entry door, I just open the middle stack. |
Quote:
I also endorse the idea of a separate workshop space - last year we added a 56x30 wood-framed shop (with a 9?x30? single-panel Schweitzer door to move planes in and out) to our 50x60 main hangar. Ee have a large passageway opening between the two spaces with a strip-door to keep the heat in teh shop in winter. As was mentioned before, the universal building code (if it applies in your area) will require sprinklers if you have more than 5,000 sqft under one roof. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
The do allow a more residential system of water only and plastic piping. The couple of local 5,000+ hangars needed more than sprinklers, they had to have heat resistant coating on the steel supports. |
I built my own bottom track. I used 6" channel iron, welded 1 1/2" angle iron inside of it, then built an "A" frame under it. I think it's 12" tall, then dug a ditch across the door opening (50') and set the frame down in that so the bottom track is flush with the concrete.
My brother & I hung the top door track, set up the door, centered it and lag screwed it to the building in less than 2 hours. The door hole is 50'. With the door open, I have 46' 10" clear span. The building walls are 14' high. I just noticed Paul's comment about the sprinkle code......my hangar is 4320 sq ft. under one roof with no poles in the center. It's a truss roof, 22' 8" to the peak from the floor. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:04 AM. |