Finishing cabin top interior.
 

I?ve read a bunch of different build logs regarding finishing of the cabin top interior and still don?t feel that I have a complete grip on how to approach it with respect to order of operations.

I am going to install the Aerosport overhead console as well as wiring conduits in the pillars. I?m also considering the Aerosport headliner although if I?m able to do a nice bare finish then I many forego this option. I?m also going to install th McMaster door seals and am waiting on my finishing kit prior to installing these so that I have the doors.

So, do I rough sand the interior to knock off the high spots and then apply micro and resend? At what point does one apply the micro? Is the aim to do this only one time? Also, at what point is the overhead console installed? Do I do it at the beginning and work around it or after the major finishing is done and then blend it in?

I appreciate hearing about other?s learning curves regarding this part of the build. Thanks.

I'm not sure there is a perfect answer, but what I did was knock off the high spots on the cabin top, fit and attach the console, then micro the transitions to the console and any irregularities in the cabin top. After that, it is your standard sand, epoxy wipe, prime, high build primer, sand, routine.

I clear coated the console and painted the balance of the cabin top.

Thanks Kyle. Did you do any wiring or ducting work under the console before you attached it? I?m not sure how easy it will be to add stuff like O2!after the fact.

I did not add any wiring or ducting under there. I considered running wires for overhead lights, but decided that if I need those, it'll be an easy retrofit.

Randy - I'm kind of in the same position as you and here is my thought process. I'm using the Aerosport console as well as the headliner in the back.

1. I've clear-coated and installed the overhead console. I then covered it so that it doesnt get scratched or primed.

2. I've used DuraTec primer on the inside of the cabin top and sanded the area around the doors so that they are nice and smooth. My understanding is that if you use the headliner, this will be the only part exposed. I plan on doing the same for the insides of the doors.

3. Once my doors are finished, I'm going to final paint the inside of the cabin top/doors.

4. Install cabin top.

5. Install all windows.

Hope this helps
Charlie

Top
 

That's how I did mine. Do as much finishing and painting of the the top interior as you can before install. Alot harder and dirty to do it after install. Use gravity...

I am about 3/4 through this now. I used a die grinder and 1.5" sander (40 grit) to knock down the ugly, high stuff. I then re-did the door gutter for the Mcmaster seals. I then used epoxy/flox to address any major filling issues.

The rest is all done polyester filler (evercoat Rage). I simply couldn't imagine doing this with an epoxy solution. WHen working in the more confined areas, you will need to put down many layers as you work out the shape. If you are only working a couple hours per day, this might be ok. But if you are working full days, you will waste a lot of time waiting for epoxy to dry. I suspect the long cure times, would encourage you to put it on thick instead of multiple thinner coats, which creates a lot more sanding than necessary.

Not sure why polyester fillings have such a bad reputation on this site, but there is simply no downside for a job like this and the upside is huge - 15 min from application to sanding. Also, I used my fingers to apply the bondo in the long inside corners. This is about the easiest way to get a decent inside radii in such a rough area. I think that would be harder with micro, but don't know, as I rarely use it over polyester. Just be sure to stop once the poly first starts to thicken up when using your fingers. I can lay down a nice radius with transitions into the flat sides requiring only minimal sanding. You finger acts like a popsicle stick, but can move and conform to the rough flats found near front window and doors.

the large areas can be block sanded for a very flat finish. The inside corners I sanded with my fingers. For the really rough flat areas around the doors, I used a sponge block (for wet sanding) to follow the contours, as I wasn't looking for flat, just smooth and presentable.

Once all that is done, the console gets adhered and faired with poly, then primer / paint.

Larry

I'm at the same spot as I am getting more and more into the cabin top and having difficulty figuring the order. My one question is how is everyone dealing with having a painted and "finished" cabin top that then has to be filled and shaped once its secured to the fuselage in the door sill and bulkheads?

My plan is:

1. Fit the overhead console
2. Blend it into the cabin top
3. Prep the rear area for the installation of the headliner
4. Install doors and have the McMaster seal fit and finish
5. Clear the overhead, rub to the satin finish I'm planning for
6. Tape and cover the the overhead
7. Install the cabin top permanently
8. Fill/micro the door sill area
9. Paint the area of the cabin top that included the door jams along with the doors along with the interior of the fuselage that wont get covered by aerosport panels
10. Install windows

Touch up
 

I just touched it up where needed after final install. It probably will not be the last touch up you do.

Your plan seems solid. Do everything before installation. You will then be covering up maybe 1/2" of the F/G when you fair the junction to the structure. A very simple paint touch up. For little touch ups like that, I like to spray the paint with an air brush. Takes a bit longer for full coverage, but the overspray is very contained and reduces masking efforts. It also makes blending to the existing paint easier to do without a ridge at the tape line.

I am aware of no method to make a satin finish with rubbing clear coat. You can leave the haze from sanding, but can't make it satin. I imagine that rubbing with an agressive compound might knock off the gloss, but this is not how folks get a flat finish and not sure you'd be pleased with the results. Have you tested this to be sure you like the results? You can add flattener to the clear coat though, to kill the gloss. I did this on my panel. However, you can't rub it. Any rubbing will take off the flatteners at the surface and bring back your gloss. This leaves a very pleasing clear coat finish without the gloss. The amount of flatteness is created with varying the ratio of flattener to mixed clear.

Larry