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Disassemble a real Bendix keyswitch and a clone ACS keyswitch and you will see why the original Benidix version cost ~ double what the ACS Manufacturing version does.
I've seen the same problem as the OP on several XHB (including a Lancair of my own) with the ACS switch; never with the Bendix version. |
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My starter has been flawless on the first attempt, since backing off the key rotation. In case you want to try giving your ACS switch new life, Spruce sells an ACS service kit (Part #11-03654) for around $17 that replaces internal switch contacts and addresses an ACS service bulletin released back in 2008. I'm expecting delivery of one of these kits any day. I did confirm that my starter contactor "drops out" at full-clockwise rotation, so it is either an internal switch contact issue or a switch end-stop issue. I like the security of a key for the ignition and canopy. I'm not convinced that toggles and push-buttons are immune to failures, too. Dale |
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In addition to the flaky "start" contacts, the ACS and Bendix switches have been prone to similar contact-related issues with the P-lead portion of the switch.
It used to be that I would trust an airplane when I could see the keys on the glare shield. Now, having seen some really ugly key switches (including the one where the key fell out onto the floor during climbout, with the engine still running - yikes!), I will only trust a key switch if I was the last guy to do a live mag check. Even then there's not so much trust as a slightly lower level of suspicion. Key switches have been in service for many years in much of the GA fleet, with many of these switches not having been shown any love since they were installed on the factory floor several decades ago. Their function is something of which we should all be more than a little suspicious. The nice thing with toggles for the ignition and a push-button for the starter is that troubleshooting is easy, replacements are cheap and one doesn't have to remove at least 5 wires to change a switch! |
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