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I installed this in my oil cooler scat tube where it meets the oil cooler baffle.
http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html Worked great for winter. I was getting oil temps in the low 140?F range when it was 0?F OAT. Now I can get 200?F in the same conditions. |
Thank you
A very big 'Thank you' to all of you for helping me with this project. I ended up installing the shutter on the back/exit air side of the cooler. I'll try to attach a picture of the installation. Again, Thank you very much.
PS: Hate to admit this, but I could not figure out how to attach a picture, sorry |
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I'm sure the McFarlanes will work. ACS brand also has a push to unlock cable. A-700 button lock. The center button is smaller but works the same. I had to use one on my heater valve because the ratchet style cable from Vans would not hold it in place. Tried messing with the ratchet spring but to no avail. |
I tried that
Due to ease of installation I initially mounted the shutter on the rear of the cooler too but It didn?t work effectively. To raise the oil temperature I still had to tape the front of the cooler closed. Take the time and locate it properly between the baffle and cooler. It?s the only way it works if you?ve got cold outside air temperatures.
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Real world experience has proven it does matter. Blocking the flow off at the back does raise the temps some, but there is apparently a lot of cooling that still occurs just from cold air blowing on the exposed front side of the cooler, even if there is no flow through it. Blocking at the rear works for moderately cold temps like we have here in W. Oregon but in very cold temps, it probably isn't enough. That is were blocking at the front is beneficial, though the style of block-off being discussed here is detrimental to some degree in hot temps because even full open it is blocking the inlet flow somewhat so some users might have to remove it during the summer. |
Ah thanks Scott, that makes sense.
Both your points are why I used one of these http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html on my firewall mounted cooler. The throttle valve is flanged and mounted to the rear baffle. |
It is not about how much the area will flow, it is the blocking.
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Edit: Lets assume that the statement that shutter flows more air than the cooler can is true. It implies that there is no reduction in cooling capacity. Lets look at a couple of facts: Fact 1. it does present an additional flow restriction in the path of air flow through the cooler, and Fact 2. since the cross bars block a portion of the fins (if mounted in contact with the cooler face) it is impossible that the cooling is not reduced by some relation to that fin area. Granted that the cooler capacity may well have adequate cooling, but it will be diminished for the same upper cowl pressure. |
Shutter
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http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html I was thinking of mounting my shutter on the rear of the cooler, but decided to do a little more work and put it on the front. Reading through these notes seems to confirm that this is the best way. I'm thinking of cutting a spacer on the water cutter the same shape and dimensions as the shutter so that it is spaced off the cooler itself my say, 1/8 inch. Anyone know what kind of bolts bolts hold the cooler on? I need to buy some that are a little longer. I assumed they were AN bolts, but they have an X and OIDO on the head. They are 10/32. Thanks. |
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