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Jim |
No, they are not in my kit and they are not on the inventory sheet. My kit was shipped on the 20th so they not have been including them at that time. I have several spares that I ordered during my build so it is not a problem.
Hal |
I?m just starting the mod. A couple of things I noted:
1. I only loosened one control cable turnbuckle which I hope will allow me to reconnect with only having to wrestle in one set of turnbuckle clips. 2. When the paint shop painted my plane the heavy coat on the bolt and nut heads makes them not accept sockets or open end wrenches of the correct size, and the coat on the spar interferes with the doubler plate fit, so I will be investing in some paint stripper before I can disassemble and install the plates. |
Hey Rich, why not disconnect at the HS horns and tie them together to keep them from slipping into the fuselage rather than messing with the clips? I?m in the reading/planning/? Phase.
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Longer Cable Adjustment
Yes on the reinstall.
I believe the cable adjustment needs to be a little longer due to the spacer behind the hinge moves the Stabilator back a little ? Your RV12 is now a little longer. Unless Vans moved the bolt for the hinge back to adjust for the spacer. Joe Dallas Quote:
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Approx How many turns/how much movement is needed, would you guess?
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SB 18-02-02 & Paint vs. Vinyl Wrap
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installing SB 18-02-02
I received the SB kit today. There were no barrel clips in any of the bags and they are not listed on the parts sheet.
Also - the two K-1000 nut plates were missing as well as the 2 cotter pins. |
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Jim |
HS stab removal process
I?m not the builder. Just thinking through the steps and early comments. Some posts indicate different kit contents, one or no clips, etc, and a couple pioneers indicate different HS removal process steps from sb steps ie; removal of HS horn cables rather than loosening cable adjusters. Perhaps the clips are not necessary and not intended if strict sb steps are followed, therefore the inconsistent amount of clips supplied - as in not really needed. Question I don?t want to hassle with the turnbuckles if the HS horn cable disconnection step in the sb is practical. Specifically, what makes one chose one way to deal with the cables or the other. I?m waiting on parts just trying to understand others comments and make best choices. Thanks! Doug in IL
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Are these cracks or scratches?
I've been unable to get guidance as to whether what is shown in the following five images are cracks or scratches.
Whatever they are, they are tiny and as you can see they are super close to the rivet's manufactured head. If they are cracks, do I drill a hole so close to the rivet; and when the drill bit works through the spar web won't it then bite into the rivet's shop head, or the nutplate itself? Or should I just move on with the installation of the SB kit? Thanks for your thoughts. Ian Heritch RV-12 N417E ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ian, which method did you use to disconnect the cables?
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Doug, if you are asking about the stabilator control cables, I simply unbolted them, which was not too difficult. Reattaching may be a different story.
Ian |
Magnaflux Dye Penetrant Kit Available
SOLD
Magnaflux dye penetrant kit SK-416 purchased for SB 18-02-02 for sale in the Classified forum. Ian Heritch RV-12, N417E |
Thanks Ian, what did you use to strip the paint off? Sorry for these basic questions, I didn?t build mine. Your photos below are a challenge to interpret if they are cracks or not. Can?t wait to hear what the pros respond with. Soon we hope!
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Doug, fortunately I did not have any paint to remove as the front spar was never painted. The red residue you see in my photos is from the dye penetrant.
Ian |
Ian, I'm certainly no expert but those marks all appear to be tooling or chip marks from a counter sink.
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I had a really tough paint to remove. I went to Home Depot and asked for their strongest stripper to deal with polyurethane paint. Works pretty well, but you have to use several applications. On the up side I don?t worry about the effects of a gas spill on the paint anymore!😁
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Thank you Big John and all others willing to help non-builders keep all those fuselage placards shinny.
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SB 18-02-02
I getting ready to do this Service Bulletin on my airplane. I didn't see any discussion about painting the parts and matching the color of the aircraft paint. My airplane is painted with Jet Glo Chrome. That paint is not available in rattle cans. I don't have a spray gun and have never tried to spray anything like an airplane.
So how did you guys paint these parts that show after the mod is done? thanks. |
I can only tell you what I did. Took a part from my airplane that was painted in original color to a few stores, and bought a can of the best match I could find. Painted the parts before installing them. The part of them that shows is quite small. I can see the difference, but I doubt anyone else would ever notice.
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There are companies that make custom paint spray cans for almost any type of paint. Search the web.
Try here... https://spectrumpaint.com/customspraypaint/ |
SB 18-02-02
Thanks for the suggestions on paint. I appreciate it.
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I did the same as BigJohn and found a rattle can paint that was close enough. Doesn't match exactly but the part is small and will not be noticed unless pointed out.
![]() You'll need to trim the opening in the fairing for the new piece. I took the trim line all the way back rather than just make a notch. If you are careful you probably don't need to touch-up paint that work. After all the SBs, I named my 12 "Patches". |
A little tip: Before you remove the two fiberglass rear fairings, temporarily position the four (two upper and two lower) small reinforcement plates so that you can mark the portions of the fairings that need to be trimmed away.
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Is this modification for older RV-12's now standard with the 2 parts added to the RV-12 iS kits during assembly?
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Misaligned holes?
First-time poster here. I have a pre-iS empennage kit and am installing this service bulletin during the build instead of retrofit. I just clecoed the HS-01231C gussets into place on the HS spar (Step #22) and found the holes in the gusset don't align well with the matching holes on the inboard hinge brackets. Both left and right brackets and top and bottom are all out of alignment similarly. See the attached photos below. Did anyone else have this problem or have any suggestions? Help would be appreciated!
Steve |
There are two versions of the HS-01231C gusset. It's possible you received the wrong one for your kit. See this thread for more information, especially post #18 and 22. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=168001
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Steve (Jetset44),
Welcome to VansAirforce |
Thanks for the tip, RV9builder! I searched VAF for info but missed that thread. I didn't realize there were two versions of that gusset, but it appears I have the correct one. Looks like a call to Van's tech support is in order...
Thanks for the welcome, Mich48041! Been lurking here for over a year but just now posted. |
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