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I used the Magnaflux Spot Check. It was $80-90 from Zoro, free shipping, no tax. They said a week or two for shipping, but it came in 4 days from Texas to Kansas, UPS.
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I?m not going to bother with looking for racks, just install the fix. If you find cracks the solution is the fix, so what?s the point in inspecting if you just put in the mod?
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You would need to stop drill any cracks ......
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Oops, sorry, I meant that post to be on the HS spar crack mod thread. Senior moment, I guess!
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Post #59
So sorry for some mis-information reference the clips for the turnbuckles. These clips are not in the SB18-02-02 parts. It was actually 2 cotter pins with also have an MS##### similar to the clips.
Bottom line....no clips so if you anticipate re-adjusting the turnbuckles order additional clips. |
I got 2 clips and cotter pins with my kit.
Mitch Garner RV12 flying year 3 |
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On another SB note, is there something special about the aviation penetration dye that is lacking in more common penetration dye kits available at the auto parts store? What are people using and where have they purchased it? Thanks for info. |
Jane is having major surgery SB 18-02-02 the elevator.
Jane is very fortunate in that she is rich with friends that want to help her out.:) This time it was major surgery SB 18-02-02 the elevator.
Dave, friend and A&P mechanic, came over with his specially built table just for the RV-12 fleet. His table is already reserved for use for another RV-12 at Wings Field. Certainly made the job a bit easier, just slide it under adjust height to match and we were all set. Service Bulletin 18-02-02 to address any potential cracking in the horizontal stabilator front spar. Did not find any cracking on Jane:cool:, however, performed the SB as a prevention measure. Had to hold for 24 hrs due to finding one of the bearings would slip out of the flange with little pressure. Put Loctite on it and checked the following day and we were good to go for Elevator installation. Click on image to see Time Lapse video of the surgery. ] ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Wow, those guys are fast!
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Hey Skunkworks, Thanks for the visual. Did you loosen cables in the process couldn?t tell. Or, just detach at the HS horns? Does that table adjust for absolute fit or just stuff a magazine or something to align? Thanks again!!
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I?ve done two so far and did not loosen the cables. Using the table, you might have to nudge the hs a little up or down when installing but works well and keeps the fuselage from getting scratched. I did my own using the table with no help whatsoever. You could use other stands, props,etc. having a stand that rolls is a big help.
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Dave12, very helpful, thank you.
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Got mine done yesterday. 900 hours on plane no cracks found. I went ahead and installed the upgrade. The task is not as bad as it first appears. Vans did a good job designing this upgrade it really adds strength to that area. In the homebuilt world your really never done building.
Thanks to Vans for catching this and providing a fix at a reasonable cost. Gone undetected this could have been a serious issue. Brad Stiefvater Salem SD N124BJ First customer built RV 12 to get Airworthy and Fly |
ME TOO - -
Just finished an hour ago. Was able to pull on cable enough to get hooked up again. Not easy, but doable. Agree, it certainly strengthened the hinges. Getting the two main bolts back in is not a fun job. Getting thin washers in place and pushing bolts in to hold them is a challenge. The new gussets make it even harder to get fingers into the area. No signs of any cracks. 1,185 hours.
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PM sent. JohnRussell |
I haven?t got to thes skin doublets yet. Would it be easier to put the stabilator back on and then install the skin doublets?
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Hmmm --
Don't think you could. Solid squeezed rivets would be hard to do. Flange to rivet to would still be there. I better say no you can't. Having smaller hands will help. Just not a fun job.
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just finished today. Not mentioned in the instructions is the potential for interference between the top tailbone fairing and the gusset at full displacement of the stabilator. Mine did interfere and I had to file an eighth of an inch of the fairing above the gusset.
Hate putting those two bolts in. No cracks, but only 150 hours. N72DJ |
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Install the F-1294A and F-1294B Upper and Lower Tailcone Fairings and check for clearance at extremes of travel. See KAI Section 12 It is assumed that if you discover interference that you will correct it to gain the clearance described in Section 12 |
I finished the mod today, and now need to reinstall the stabilator. I see what you mean, John. The gussets would be tough if not impossible to install after the stab is back on. I really hate messing with those hinge bolts. They are extremely frustrating to put in.
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Makes is pretty easy to install. If he didn't have one, I buy one just for this operation! Jim |
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As to the table, I reckon one of the adjustable tables would be nice, but one can achieve almost the same result with a small table and various thicknesses of blankets, pads, etc. I?m in no big hurry to start this project. Sure am looking forward to it though! 😫 |
Vans
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Has anybody else had to replace the spacers (stabilator stops) between the bearing bracket halves with longer ones after installing the fix kit? My old spacers were approximately 1/16’’ short.
Alex |
I got the stab back on today and the end of travel seemed ?squishy?. Then I realized the issue brought up here about the fairing interference was the problem. The fairing was stopping the stab travel before it hit the hard stop. This blog is worth it?s weight in gold!
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Just finished both SB?s for my tail feathers yesterday....now for the fun of reinstalling everything. Will say, I appreciate Van?s for the continued support of our Aircraft.
Timing is everything...as this completes my annual for the tail section😜 |
Installing stabilator cable solo
Just finished this up today and it probably took closer to 16 hours than 6. I prepped, primed and painted all parts before disassembly of the tail. No real pitfalls until reassembly.
Then spent hours getting the pivot bolts and spacing washers in. The newly boxed in structure makes access much more challenging and only from underneath. Connecting the stabilator cable tensioner solo is extremely challenging but I eventually worked out a way to do it solo. Connect the top, pull the lower cable as far forward as possible, wrap tape around the clevis body and clamp lightly with vice grips from the bottom. Insert a piece of cardboard at rear bulkhead to protect it from the vice grips. (the vice grips will push against the bulkhead and lock the lower cable position) With your right hand use the tail leverage to match holes by pulling down on the rear of the stabilator. When aligned insert a short #3 bolt in from the trim motor side. Then slowly from the right work in the correct bolt to the right clevis side to put in the spacer washer and then to the left to install washer followed by outside washer and castle nut/counter pin. Probably is impossible solo to pull the cable tension directly from the clevis and put in the bolt. Also plan on a lot of trimming to the top rear fuselage cap faring if built per plans. The exposed plates are notched but the notch ends probably 3/8" farther to the front than the clearance previously required for the box spar. Bottom is easy, just the plate thickness. |
I got the bolts in from the top using forceps to get them into the hole. I set up my endoscope so I had a good view to manipulate the bolts. It also helps to chamfer the last 1/8? of the bolts so you can tap them into place. The spacing washers are a challenge. I used the endoscope to estimate the spacing with the stab centered. Then I pulled it off and super glued the washers in . It worked well, but it really hurt taking the stab off to do it after going through the gyrations to get it reattached to determine the spacing. The control cable turnbuckle locking clips are a pain because the alignment has to be perfect to form the groove for the locking pin.
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We got the stab re-installed and cables reattached tonight. We'll need to install some washers between the brackets and bearings, but I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get them in with my washer wrench. I hope so, anyway.
There were no washers there before. Don't know why, maybe they weren't needed. |
Just completed my Stab SB and offer a few observations on the stab reinstall:
1. Van's suggestion to instant-glue the original configuration washers to the new brackets worked great -- be sure to abrade the gluing surfaces for max adhesion and use a touch of grease to help the brackets/washers slide onto the bearings. CNC accuracy and Van's engineering are amazing in that my original washer configuration perfectly fit the new brackets/bearings. 2. Find two friends to help you position the stab. Alternatively, you can build up a table or sawhorses to get the stab in position -- the stab reinstall can then be a one-man job. 3. Forceps or long-handled needle-nose pliers working from below can be used to initially position the bearing bolts. A set of extensions for your socket set is necessary to final install and torque the two bearing bolts. 4. See Scott Millhouse's earlier post (#110) regarding the reinstallation of the stab cables -- that worked fine for me. Thanks Scott for the tip. 5. There is the potential to scrape the forward portion of the stab against the aft sides of the tail cone when you initially remove and replace the stab. Tape some protective sheet plastic or heavy paper in these areas to prevent scratching. I wasn't looking forward to the stab reinstall but it took less than 30 minutes and went according to plan -- Yeah! |
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Has anyone done any detailed write-ups on their builder's blog on the Stabilator SB? Asking for a friend. :rolleyes:
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Hi Kevin, no detailed write up here, but I can tell you it took me about 12 hours, it involved more than I initially thought. Here is the completed image, this is the top view, the bottom is basically a mirror image of the gussets and the stabilator horn. Glad I did this before painting. You throw away the old hinge brackets assemblies.
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A picture is a thousand words. Thanks, Paul
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Thanks for posting that nice clear picture Paul. Makes it much easier to viualize the task ahead.
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Paul,
Thank You very much for the excellent Photograph. Joe |
My pleasure guys. Here is another one that may help. This is the bottom view. By the way, great to see your name Joe! It's been almost 2 years since your 'open house' at LVK, and your RV-12 was almost complete. I wondered what happened to you, hope all is well. Paul
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Several comments were made concerning the difficulty of inserting the spacing washers during the stabilizer install.
Ref: SB-18-02-02 Step 4: Taking note of the washers used between the Hinge Brackets and pivot Bearings for reuse later, disconnect the Stabilator Assembly from the Tailcone Assembly as shown in KAI Page 10-05 and KAI Page 11-03. Refer to the KAI references above, it will instruct you during the assembly process to bond the washers to the inside of the bracket assemblies. This will facilitate an easier stabilizer install. Then all you have to mess with is aligning each bracket assembly with its respective bearing then insert the hinge bolts. I'll be installing the stab tomorrow.. Just hope I don't have to mess with the turnbuckles. Regards, |
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