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HS Brackets & Nutplate
In Step 19 of the SB it says to rivet a K1000-4 nutplate to the HS-1231A & HS-1231B hinge bracket using two AN426AD3-4 rivets. It doesn't say to countersink the HS-1231A first for the rivet head. Is that an oversight? Thanks.
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Might just be implied.
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I agree Kevin, I think it's just implied based on the AN426 rivet callout.
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Regarding the horn doublers being added in the SB, I read this:
Step 8: Drill #40 the six locations marked on the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn into the HS-01232 Stabilator Horn Doubler and HS-1211 Spar Cap. It's saying to drill #40 holes into the 6 marked locations in the horn and drill through the doubler as well as the spar cap? Since you are flush riveting the doublers from the bottom through the horn, you wouldn't want to drill into the spar cap right? The pictures in this thread seem consistent with my thoughts but the SB instructions confuse me. Am I reading the instructions wrong for this step or are the instructions incorrect? Tony Vitiello Ballwin, MO RV-12 ELSA Tail kit in progress ULS Fuse kit next |
Tom,
Read post #1, 2 and 4 in this thread. I think it will answer your question. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=157967 |
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It's not a big deal. Consider them lightening holes. :)
It's easier to insure everything stays aligned to just drill them while on the spar. Vic |
I drilled 2 all the way through to get good alignment then finished drilled the others off the spar. Worked well for me at final installation.
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Thanks for the replies. Sounds like there are multiple ways to accomplish this as long as everything stays aligned.
One other question. I?m doing this SB on a new build, not after the fact as most are. Therefore my spar assembly is only clecoed at this point so I can disassemble to debur holes and clean chips inside the spar cap. I?m curious about leaving burrs or chips inside parts you can?t access. I guess it?s just something you have to do and not worry about chips loose inside parts in cases like this? I suppose you can debur holes from the outside but how would you remove metal shavings? I?ve had this issue when I have the rudder skins mostly riveted and have to slightly ream out matched holes to insert a pulled rivet. I use a #30 reamer and go really slow to minimize chips/burrs but still get a few shavings on the bottom side of the hole. I haven?t yet had to drill out a rivet that I couldn?t access the stem but it will probably drive me crazy if I have to leave a rivet stem inside my wing or something. |
I hear you Tony! I had to re-rivet one of the anti-servo hinges and ended up with the rivet tails inside the stabilitor. I cleared them out with a magnet on a long stick and a LOT of fishing around. It was a real PIA. :mad:
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