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-   -   SB 18-02-02 Potential cracking in the horizontal stabilator front spar (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=157839)

kevinl4000 03-19-2018 01:18 AM

HS Brackets & Nutplate
 
In Step 19 of the SB it says to rivet a K1000-4 nutplate to the HS-1231A & HS-1231B hinge bracket using two AN426AD3-4 rivets. It doesn't say to countersink the HS-1231A first for the rivet head. Is that an oversight? Thanks.

Dave12 03-19-2018 06:24 AM

Might just be implied.

pstraub 03-19-2018 08:56 AM

I agree Kevin, I think it's just implied based on the AN426 rivet callout.

aviti 03-26-2018 11:23 PM

Regarding the horn doublers being added in the SB, I read this:

Step 8: Drill #40 the six locations marked on the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn into the HS-01232 Stabilator Horn Doubler and HS-1211 Spar Cap.


It's saying to drill #40 holes into the 6 marked locations in the horn and drill through the doubler as well as the spar cap? Since you are flush riveting the doublers from the bottom through the horn, you wouldn't want to drill into the spar cap right? The pictures in this thread seem consistent with my thoughts but the SB instructions confuse me.

Am I reading the instructions wrong for this step or are the instructions incorrect?

Tony Vitiello
Ballwin, MO
RV-12 ELSA
Tail kit in progress
ULS Fuse kit next

rv9builder 03-27-2018 12:44 AM

Tom,

Read post #1, 2 and 4 in this thread. I think it will answer your question.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=157967

pstraub 03-27-2018 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aviti (Post 1248943)
Am I reading the instructions wrong for this step or are the instructions incorrect?

I had the same confusion. I decided not to drill those 6 holes into the spar cap. I cleco'd everything in place and drilled the 6 holes thru the horn, just deep enough to mark the doubler, then took it apart and drilled the holes through, did the countersink and riveting, then installed them. I am guessing that Van's just decided it would be easier to drill right into the cap, even though the holes would not be used, 6 #40 holes into the cap is probably not a big deal (actually 12 holes if you count top and bottom horns). I just didn't want to do it that way. Hope that makes sense.

vic syracuse 03-27-2018 05:08 AM

It's not a big deal. Consider them lightening holes. :)
It's easier to insure everything stays aligned to just drill them while on the spar.

Vic

funflying 03-27-2018 07:53 AM

I drilled 2 all the way through to get good alignment then finished drilled the others off the spar. Worked well for me at final installation.

aviti 03-27-2018 08:20 AM

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like there are multiple ways to accomplish this as long as everything stays aligned.

One other question. I?m doing this SB on a new build, not after the fact as most are. Therefore my spar assembly is only clecoed at this point so I can disassemble to debur holes and clean chips inside the spar cap.

I?m curious about leaving burrs or chips inside parts you can?t access. I guess it?s just something you have to do and not worry about chips loose inside parts in cases like this? I suppose you can debur holes from the outside but how would you remove metal shavings?

I?ve had this issue when I have the rudder skins mostly riveted and have to slightly ream out matched holes to insert a pulled rivet. I use a #30 reamer and go really slow to minimize chips/burrs but still get a few shavings on the bottom side of the hole.

I haven?t yet had to drill out a rivet that I couldn?t access the stem but it will probably drive me crazy if I have to leave a rivet stem inside my wing or something.

JwWright57 03-27-2018 11:15 AM

I hear you Tony! I had to re-rivet one of the anti-servo hinges and ended up with the rivet tails inside the stabilitor. I cleared them out with a magnet on a long stick and a LOT of fishing around. It was a real PIA. :mad:


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