VAF Forums

VAF Forums (https://vansairforce.net/community/index.php)
-   Traditional Aircraft Engines (https://vansairforce.net/community/forumdisplay.php?f=21)
-   -   XP-IO-360 vertical draft install references? (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=15778)

JonJay 04-04-2007 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling
Hi Guys,

Wow I started this thread and haven?t been around in a while, it has grown significantly.

Here is where I am at, with a couple of pictures below?
1)I got the arm that points the other way
2)I used the vans VA-182-PC bracket instead of the standard one that comes with the standard carb FW FWD setup.

What I noticed so far:
- The metered hose supplied by SuperiorAir going from the Throttle Body(TB) to the FI spider will work, but runs close to the exhaust, I decided I will put some additional fire sleeving on it for the section close to the Exhaust, because I don?t know how good the protection of STD brown hose is.
- The supplied hose from the Fuel Pump to the TB inlet will not work, it just runs too close to the control cables for my liking, and might cause chaffing. I decided to have a hose made up, a little longer. I will have to figure out how to support it for the last run between the engine mount and the TB inlet.

I have not tried my airbox or cowl on yet, so I don?t know what the alignment would be. I did fit the heat insulator between the Sump and the TB, you can see it is a brownish colour, between 3 supplied gaskets.

This is my first engine install so if you see something odd, let me know!

Will keep you guys posted?If you figure out something I haven?t yet please post below.

Kind Regards
Rudi



Not sure if the cowling has more clearance on the 9 than on my 6, but I did have to modify the arm. See previous post. In regard to the high pressure fuel line, I ran mine straight out of the back and up through the right back side of the baffle to the distributor. It stayed well clear of the exhaust and there is not a lot going on on the right side as the oil cooler lines are on the left but either side would work. (back side that is). It looks like you are coming out of the back but going up the side. I tried that but thought it was too close to the exhaust for my comfort. Straight out worked well. My airbox lined up well without any spacer. In fact, the spacer made the clearances worse when I tried it.
Modification to the VA-182 was simply bending the "tab" down where the mixture cable runs through to get a little shallower angle for the cable. Probably not necessary, but I felt better about it and it was very easy to manipulate.
Engine started last Saturday. Ran like a top. Inspection next week, with first flight hopefully on the 14th. Yahoo.

Captain Avgas 04-04-2007 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonJay
Not sure if the cowling has more clearance on the 9 than on my 6, but I did have to modify the arm.

JonJay, I think you mentioned that precision has an alternative mix arm that does not protrude out so far. Do you know the part number for that arm.

Also, it seems to me that you do not have any spacer either above or below the servo (is that right)...and yet your cowl inlet aligns with the FAB. The Precision servo is supposed to be 1" shorter than the carburettor it replaces so I don't know what to make of this. Others have definitely said that a spacer is required. Can you comment on this.

Regards Bob

JonJay 04-05-2007 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Avgas
JonJay, I think you mentioned that precision has an alternative mix arm that does not protrude out so far. Do you know the part number for that arm.

Also, it seems to me that you do not have any spacer either above or below the servo (is that right)...and yet your cowl inlet aligns with the FAB. The Precision servo is supposed to be 1" shorter than the carburettor it replaces so I don't know what to make of this. Others have definitely said that a spacer is required. Can you comment on this.

Regards Bob

I called Precision and they helped with the part number, but I did not go that way. They don't sell direct and retail on the arm was $100 or so. I know a good tig welder who took care of the modification for me on the existing arm for $10 or so, I think I gave him $20 for the effort.
I am confused on the spacer comment too. I did not use a spacer and my airbox lined up about 3/16"-1/4" high, which from reading the instructions, is pretty common. You simply bend down the plate where it narrows and modify the airbox slightly by slitting it at the bend point and glassing over the slit. All of this is in the instructions. If I had used the 1" spacer, I would have been 3/4" out of line on the low side. Perhaps there are differences in 6, 8, 9 snoot locations? I can not comment on the difference in height of a servo or a standard carb or an ellison or?? I dont believe in the theory that you need the spacer above the servo to provide for "proper" airflow. My engine came prebuilt by Aerosport Power without it and they know what they are doing.
If you end up needing a spacer, I have a very nice 1" aluminum spacer sitting around. At any rate, you dont need to worry about it until after you get your cowling fitted. Then you will know exactly what to do with your airbox. The cowling will dictate what happens next.

RudiGreyling 04-16-2007 11:44 PM

HI Guys,

I can give some more feedback...I wanted to use most of the standard goodies from VAN's, so most of it is from the Standard F/W kit for the 0-360 also no fancy F/W penetration saddles etc etc.

1) I drilled the engine control cables in the firewall and the inside cover at your feet pretty close to the Vans RV7 0-360 Carb locations. I just had to watch out for the reinforcement plate for the FI Fuel supply. The only difference is that I swapped the use of the 'Carb Heat' hole for the Mixture cable and used the Micture Hole for the Alternate Air cable. Remember I got both the longer 50" cables for Throttle and Mix instead of the standard lenghts. They worked out fine as you will see later. PS Ignore the platenuts for the small Electric Pump they were installed before I knew I was going FI.


2) The Throttle lined up good, but the Mixture Cable did not see picture below, I got the VA-182-PC KIT THRTLE/MIX BRCKT IO 320/360 Vert. Induction instead of the standard Carb Bracket


3) By bending the bracket a little the alignment problem is solved.



4) Here you can see how I routed my hoses and cables..well so far so good ;-). I had to get a new fuel supply cable made since the Van's one did not fit, neither did the XP one. The High Pressure Metered Fuel hose to the FI spider is the XP supplied one. I juse added some additional firesleeve on it, cause it will sit close to the Exhaust.


Everyting is on temporary, I need to fit the cowl to see how it works out, stay tuned...

Kind Regards,
Rudi
PS: This is my first engine install, so use this info at your own risk, also if you see something wrong, email me...

Captain Avgas 04-17-2007 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RudiGreyling
HI Guys,

Everyting is on temporary, I need to fit the cowl to see how it works out, stay tuned...

Kind Regards,
Rudi

We're standing by Rudi. It will be interesting to see whether your mix arm hits the cowl. Please advise.

JonJay 04-17-2007 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Avgas
We're standing by Rudi. It will be interesting to see whether your mix arm hits the cowl. Please advise.

It hit on mine, but it was an easy fix to cut down that lever and have it tig welded or buy the ready made one from Precision for $100. Everything else you described is exactly what I did in regard to cable penetrations, hoses, and bending of the standard bracket. Your skinning that cat.
I am very glad I went with vertical induction and kept the classic scoop on my 6.
Four hours flying and it all works fine.

Captain Avgas 04-17-2007 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonJay
It hit on mine, but it was an easy fix to cut down that lever and have it tig welded or buy the ready made one from Precision for $100. .

JonJay, when I look at Rudi's photo shot from directly under the engine it shows that there is VERY little clearance between the throttle body and the mix cable "extender rod" with the standard mix lever installed. You have modified your mix lever arm to bring it in closer to the throttle body so I'm surprised that your mix cable extender rod does not hit the throttle body. How much clearance do you have.

RudiGreyling 04-18-2007 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Avgas
JonJay, when I look at Rudi's photo shot from directly under the engine it shows that there is VERY little clearance between the throttle body and the mix cable "extender rod" with the standard mix lever installed. You have modified your mix lever arm to bring it in closer to the throttle body so I'm surprised that your mix cable extender rod does not hit the throttle body. How much clearance do you have.

Hi Captain Afgas,

Ditto there is very little clearance maybe 1/4" between the TB and Mix Cable, with the bracket I got. It the arm need to change then I will have to change my bracket as well...if the arm comes closer to the TB then the Bracket holding the Mix cable have to go out further to compensate.

Anycase don't hold your breath for the Cowl, there are lot and lots of stuff to do before I get there, maybe a month or so.

Regards
Rudi

RudiGreyling 07-26-2007 12:53 AM

Hi Guys,

So OK it took a little more than one month to post an update...but here it is.

I got some cowl interfence, exactly like the guys like JonJay experienced. I am working with Superior to see how and if we can resolve, but being Oshkhosh time things are a bit slow as can be expected.

I'll keep you guys in the loop, so you can learn:

I got some interference and thought I could solve it by Re-clocking the arm a bit...
1) Photo 1 shows how I reclocked the arm 1 notch hoping to get more clearance, you can see my Green Sharpie Marking references, note also the shallow angle of the mix cable in the background at full open.


2) Photo 2 shows the arm and cable shallow angle, I am concerned about the cable jamming in the full open position, with that shallow angle.


3) Photo 3 shows the arm and how close it gets to the bottom cowl when the mixture is fully closed.


4) Photo 4 is taken through the air filter intake in the cowl, it shows there are less than 1/16" clearance with the arm re-clocked.


This current set-up will definitely hit the cowl when the engine is operational and I am still concerned about a cable jam, going from full open to close again.

As I said I am working with XP to see how we resolve, but Oshkosh is taking it's toll.

I don't want to go the cut and tig weld route at this stage...

Regards
Rudi

tonyjohnson 01-27-2008 05:29 PM

How did it work out Rudi?
 
Rudi,

How did you resolve the issue you posted last? Those of us with vertical intake I-O360 precision FI systems would like to know how it worked out for you.

Does anyone else have any updated information on this topic?

Thanks


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:15 AM.