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Fuel valve location Q.
I'm removing the Vans fuel selector and mounting an Andair valve in the -10 QB kit I bought. At the same time I'm relocating it 3 inches down to copy the newer factory location.
It would be easier assembly and fabrication for me it the valve could move 1 inch or so further forward. Can anyone with a finished -10 tell me if this could cause problems? I plan on using the AeroSport center console it that makes a difference. |
The center tunnel top has a hole for the valve shaft pre-drilled, so you'll need to patch that in some way. Check that the valve handle/pointer will clear your center console in the new location. Obviously none of the fuel line bends will be per-plans if you move forward, but I don't think there's anything that can't be made to work. I'd strongly suggest the mod some have done, of putting a side access panel into the bottom of the tunnel, to get a wrench in there for R&R the fuel filter. Going from the top is painful, and with the valve more forward may be even harder, not sure.
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It is a pain if you have to loosen shoulder harnesses whenever you want to reach the fuel valve.......
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If you were able to just barely comfortably reach it in the stock location, 1" fwd could cause it to be a stretch. I am 5'9" and about average leg to torso proportioned (30" inseam). When I fly either of our RV-10s (with the rudder pedals in the center mounting position) and my shoulder blades remaining against the seat back, I can just reach the fuel valve with my arm fully extended straight. I don't feel like I am stretching to reach it but I would be if it were any further fwd. If using the center console raises the elevation of the handle that would offset/improve any fwd move slightly (but I am not sure how much). |
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The center console keeps the fuel valve at essentially the same elevation, so I'll work on new bracketry to keep the valve handle in the stock location. The revised brackets are needed since I'm dropping the actual valve down 2.5 to 3 inches inside the tunnel like the later kits. The Andair valve and it's extension arrive from the UK today. |
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Gil,
Are you using the Andair extension? It does have two universal joints that may allow you to move the actual valve location forward without moving the handle. |
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I ended up buying a kit that had been started about that time and didn?t know about any change being made but ended up using the standard Vans valve with the red fuel lever, was a good fit and working OK . Don?t remember having any problem other than it was a tight fit getting scat thru, the change probably makes that much easier. As far as the valve I assume you?re talking about the Andair.
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I did get the extension, but I didn't get the universal joint option. The stock location should work if I offset my two mounting flanges (to be fabricated) to give access for mounting on the side of the tunnel walls. At the moment I'm thinking of 2 countersunk #8 screws on each side. Since the move is mainly to thread the 2 inch SCAT tubing as mentioned above, I think I'll drop it down 2.5 inches from the top edge of the tunnel. It was good that the valve mounting plate had to be removed since I needed to re-work (replace) the brake lines in the tunnel. The previous builder had even mentioned he didn't like how they turned out. Using 5052-0 tubing helped. |
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Universal joint
If you find that you need a universal joint for the and/or valve, I have one that I don't need...never been used. I also have 2' of extension that I will not be using all of...
Be happy to make you a deal if you find you need them... |
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Is it a trim ring around a hole in the carbon fiber that allows the valve to be attached to the aluminum cover underneath? |
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I am able to remove the center console without touching the valve. ... And I'm probably going to paint the console at some point, too, just for the record. |
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I can do the valve mounting using the tunnel cover and worry about fitting the console later when I buy it. |
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