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Baggage door holder/cable
Looking for a way to control or limit baggage door swinging, banging, or flopping. Maybe a combination spring/cable from baggage forward brace to door? Anyone have a simple setup?
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I was planning on doing something similier to a Jeep Wrangler door, where you have a piece of webbing set to limit travel.
https://www.carid.com/2007-jeep-wran...-13906745.html Picture: (was to large to include) https://www.quadratec.com/sites/defa...eck_Straps.jpg There are also kits to install struts like on the doors, but I wanted to be able to easily remove my door. |
Aerosport makes a strut kit for the baggage door. It's attached to the door with a pin that's quickly removable for opening past 90 degrees or door removal (my baggage door is removable without tools due to a hinge modification I made during the build)
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Here is a link to the strut: http://aerosportproducts.com/rv10baggage.htm |
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Door mod
Ed has a very entailed write up and I think a video on their site. I just did the mod the other day. Works very slick, similar to how vans has you make the hinges for the removable rear seat backs.
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I know there are some inexpensive struts available but I thought I saw somewhere a spring/cable combination. Maybe the strut might be a better way to go.
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Remove?
I can see an option to open past 90 degrees at times may be useful, but what advantage would it be to make the door removable?
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Making the door removable and easily re-installable could eliminate the issue. |
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Keeping in mind your question Dave..... “ anyone have a simple setup” I used a nice bit of marine cord to keep my baggage door from opening past 100* .....Drilled a 1/4” hole about half way across the inside top of baggage door internal skin just down from the top bend. Attached an ally lug (about 2”long) about half way along
the top of the baggage door opening frame with a suitable screw and nyloc, 1/4” hole in other end of lug. Tied a knot in the “nice” cord and with the help of some tie wire, fished it through the latch slot of the door to the baggage door hole. Then did the same knot trick at the other end to achieve the desired opening. Solves the swinging out problem, it’s lite, it’s simple, but it doesn’t fix the “banging or flopping”. Cheers from Western Australia |
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1: I was able to build the hinge more flush with the outside skin, as I insert the pins from the center of the hinge, and don't need access to the hinge eyelets that are obstructed by the skins at the top and bottom. 2: I was able to leave the door off while building the rest of the plane. Made access much easier, and I wasn't banging into it. 3: First thing I do during the annual condition inspection is pull the door off. Easier access into the baggage area/tailcone, and I can get into the pilots side door without having to push the door out of my way. Info about the mod: http://www.goodplaneliving.com/finis...-baggage-door/ |
I have a different approach. I did not build mine and have no experience with any other RV-10 baggage door but my door does not open far enough to touch the skin of the fuselage unless the key is in it.
Therefore: 1. I take the key out. 2. I cut a wood fuel dipstick to a slight angle on the bottom and to a length that will wedge lightly between the door bottom edge and the wing walk holding the door open as I load the baggage area. |
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